1975 Sears Ted Williams 7.5

REDFISH25

Recruit
Joined
Nov 3, 2008
Messages
5
I JUST GOT A SEARS TED WILLIAMS 7.5 AND I CAN GET IT TO START UP AND IDLE BUT WHEN ITS IN GEAR I CAN DRIVE IT AROUND THE LAKE FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES AND THEN IT WILL DIE AND THEN WHEN YOU TRY TO START IT BACK UP IT RUNS FOR ABOUT TWO SECONDS AND DIES AND THEN I CANT EVER GET IT TO STAY RUNNING AFTER THAT.:confused: ..CAN ANYONE HELP ANYTHING WOULD BE GREAT THANK YOU
 

CATransplant

Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
6,319
Re: 1975 Sears Ted Williams 7.5

Make sure the vent is open on the fuel tank, whether it is a built-in one or an external one. That's one step.

It's also very possible that the ignition system has a problem that acts up only after the engine is warm. That one probably has the solid state ignition, which is often a problem on those outboards. You can test this by running the engine until it quits working, then test the spark. Not easy, on the water, but it can be done.

Bottom line with those Eska-made Sears engines is that after 33 years, they're not especially a reliable power plant. Ignition parts are very, very hard to find. Other parts are available from www.certifiedpartscorp.com, but you have to call the place and talk to someone.

With the model number, you can go to www.searspartsdirect.com and see exploded-view parts diagrams, and Sears does have some parts available.

Good luck!
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: 1975 Sears Ted Williams 7.5

Check for spark.If your running a remote tank there is a fuel pump in the mounting flange of the carb that is a weak link. You might try squeezing the primer bulb to see it it helps.
 

nobrks

Recruit
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
1
Re: 1975 Sears Ted Williams 7.5

I have same motor model # 217.585911 any idea what year it is. has lots of old gas in tank.
 
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
65
Re: 1975 Sears Ted Williams 7.5

REDFISH25, I would recommend a few things....a carb rebuild and pulling the powerhead off the leg to check the lower crankshaft seal for leaks. Both of these things can cause operating issues once the engine is warm. These engines are very simple, and not much can go wrong with them once you check the key areas (carb, lower crank seal, ignition). Some posters have mentioned that it's difficult to get ignition parts for these engines. That's not really a problem - if your ignition is bad, there is a company who rebuilds the ignition module under the flywheel, and even though the ignition coil is no longer available, it can be replaced with a Johnson/Evinrude ignition coil. I did this on mine, and it works great. These engines are very reliable, if you put a little effort into making sure they are set up right.
 
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