1976 200hp evinrude buzzer goes off at HI rpm's

redlinj

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
277
The motor starts hard, but I'll live with that. Once started, it runs good for a long time unless I decide to go above 3200 rpms. Then the buzzer goes off. Motor has an aftermarket nosecone/low level water intakes. Motor History. Engine was 1 of a dual set up on some sort of race boat. Got both engines and made one decent one(maybe). Motor came with no thermostats, 25 pitch ss thru blade exhaust props and has ul-77 plugs. Also, came with and is still on jack plates. Replaced head gaskets, added thermostats, 6 new coils, changed prop to 14.5 w 19, and new water pump. Cannot get rpms over 4600. The major question is this. Nose cone intakes appear to only allow about 12% of the water volume that the now bondoed over stock intakes allowed. Don't know what the water pressure is though. My theory is that the pump can't get enough water to cool the engine at higher rpms. However, I have also heard that the buzzer will go off if the engine can't get enough fuel at those rpm's Any ideas out there? Thanks
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Re: 1976 200hp evinrude buzzer goes off at HI rpm's

When the prob happens disconnect the tan wires going to the cyl head temp senders. If the horn shuts up you'll know it's an over heat.
 

Willyclay

Captain
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
3,273
Re: 1976 200hp evinrude buzzer goes off at HI rpm's

I had an OMC V4 that would indicate an overheat anytime I used WOT for more than ten seconds. After verifying there was no actual overheat occuring, I replaced the temperature switch assembly in the cylinder head and the problem went away. Good luck!
 

redlinj

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
277
Re: 1976 200hp evinrude buzzer goes off at HI rpm's

OK! A very logical step. Haven't done that yet but only because after shutting down the engine for 10 minutes or so, it starts up again with no buzzer. I will do that check however, as soon as I get the lower unit back on. Right now I'm in process of removing the nose cone and bondo from all the stock intake ports. This is what baffles me a bit,--- that the nose cone inlets only seem to allow 12% of the water volume that the stock inlet ports did. Is it more a matter of pressure or volume? I just don't see how the pump can be getting enough water to cool the engine down at the higher rpms. Thanks
 
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