1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

[cgildea]

now, its time to start on the decks. im having some problems figuring this out. I plan on raising the front deck. just not sure how to do it. since there is a lip on the side of the boat. im thinking of glassing a 1x4 along the lip to set the deck on to raise it. I know epoxy peanut butter would be the best way to do this but im on a budget so I think im gonna use pl premium and clamp it in place, once it cures glass over it. then run a bead of pl premium across the top and set the deck on it, then tab it in. also, my deck will be 64 wide and about 60" long. im gonna do 3/4" ply. what would be the best way to brace this. Im thinking a 1x12 glassed vertical from the full to the bottom of the deck. it will also have a full bulkhead in front of the deck.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

What materials did you use to do the transom? Did you check the stringers? Was there foam under the Deck? I don't think the PL would do a good job adhereing the cleats to the sides of the hull. Since the boat is a "Tub" Construction the sides are hollow so you could prolly use toggle bolts to assist in holding the cleats to the hull along with the PL and that might work along with center joists to assist with support.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

What materials did you use to do the transom? Did you check the stringers? Was there foam under the Deck? I don't think the PL would do a good job adhereing the cleats to the sides of the hull. Since the boat is a "Tub" Construction the sides are hollow so you could prolly use toggle bolts to assist in holding the cleats to the hull along with the PL and that might work along with center joists to assist with support.

yes, the stringers were in good shape. there was some wet foam which is why we replaced the back 48" of the boat. we dug all the till the foam was dry then just decided to make it the the width of a piece of plywood. i've seen people using the pl premium with good results. I was just gonna use that to glue it to the hull then go over it with a piece of cloth for extra insurance. but I might just bite the bullet and get 2 quarts of epoxy and make some peanut butter to glue them to the side and see how far that gets me.. since i'm gonna have a full bulkhead on the front deck I might just run a 1x4 or 2x4 from the front of the deck to all the way back to the bulkhead and then just a 2x4 vertical so I don't waste a lot of space underneath the deck.... honestly though nothing is set in stone. the more I research the more I change things, the is my first time doing this so I want to make sure I do it right.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

What did you use to glass in the repairs on the transom and deck? Who have you seen that has had good results using the PL. Most of the guys here on the forum have gone away from using PL since it takes more than 72 hours for it to cure, Epoxy and Poly has issues sticking to it and it has issues sticking to them. It will stick pretty good to bare, dry wood.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

What did you use to glass in the repairs on the transom and deck? Who have you seen that has had good results using the PL. Most of the guys here on the forum have gone away from using PL since it takes more than 72 hours for it to cure, Epoxy and Poly has issues sticking to it and it has issues sticking to them. It will stick pretty good to bare, dry wood.

a lot of the guys on microskiff have been using it.
poly resin csm and woven roven mat for the transom and floor.
I didn't plan on glassing over the pl, just using that as an adhesive to hold the "cleat" to the side of the hull while I glassed over it. im gonna look more into it. I would like to use epoxy peanut butter and some 1708 but but that would kill me budget wise.....

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Why not stick with the Poly and CSM you used on the Transom? It'll be plenty strong for the cleats for what you're wanting to do and it should be well within your budget. Poly Peanut Butter would work equally as well. I'd drill some holes in the sides so you'd get a "Mechanical Bond" as well when the PB oozed into the holes. I'd also recommend using 1x2 and kerfing it so it would bend to conform to the curvature of the hull.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Why not stick with the Poly and CSM you used on the Transom? It'll be plenty strong for the cleats for what you're wanting to do and it should be well within your budget. Poly Peanut Butter would work equally as well. I'd drill some holes in the sides so you'd get a "Mechanical Bond" as well when the PB oozed into the holes. I'd also recommend using 1x2 and kerfing it so it would bend to conform to the curvature of the hull.

because to my understanding poly peanut butter doesn't have as good of a bond as epoxy peanut butter. I plan on sticking with poly and csm when I do the decks. I plan on using 1x4's along the side lip to raise the deck. I cant kerf cut them cause the way the front of the boat is. the side is vertical but when it gets to the front where it comes to a point it makes like a 45 angle forward. so kerfing really wouldn't help in my situation. im really trying to avoid drilling holes. I lready have a lot along the gunwale I have to fill also some in the side from rod holders and what not from the previous owner.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Well not sure who you're talking to but, your boat is made from poly and if you grind the area where you're gunna attach the cleats (and you should regardless of what resin you use) poly will bond to poly with MORE than an adequate bond. If you do a good job in your installation and ensure there are no air bubbles in the laminations then it will last for decades. Looking at the pics you've posted I don't quite get what you're saying but, it's your boat and you seem to have a plan so good luck with your build and keep us posted on how it's going and let us know if we can help.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Woodonglass is putting some good advice out there. Poly PB would be your best bet. I would trust that more than PL Premium. The difference in strength between poly PB and epoxy PB you would never see in your life time. On the upside it looks like you did a nice job on your transom. What kind of wood did you use? Did you use epoxy or poly resin?

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild



ok guys, you have to work with me here. it was too dark for me to take pictures so maybe this will help explain.
the yellow line is a 3/4" lip that runs all the way around the boat.
the blue lines are the 1x4's I plan on sitting on top of the lip to raise my deck to the height I want. my plan was to use pl premium to glue them to the hull then run a sheet of glass over them.
the red is where my bulkhead will be. hope that helps yall understand a little better

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

What about a centre support for that front deck?

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Im debating on just running a 1x4 or 2x4 turned for more support from the front to back and secure it to the bulkhead. Im trying to figure out how to brace it without adding a support that goes to the floor. Since it will have q full bulkhead i shouldnt need a vertical brace. My back deck is gonna have a 1x12 from the deck to floor. It wont have a bulkhead so its gonna need alot of support.
My plan for the back deck is to glass a 1x4 and screw it to my transom level with the lip that runs around the boat. So the deck will be supported on 3 sides. Build my deck out of 3/4 and run a 2x4 across the front to keep it from flexing and then a 1x12 in the middle.
Ill try to get some pictures as soon as i can. Its easy to type it but hard to picture it

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

I completely understand what you are attempting to do. Since you have that lip there that helps but I still think you're taking a chance using the PL. I believe it will eventually break loose from the hull. Using thickened Polyester resin would be a better choice. A Tabbing of CSM is all that would be required to finish it off. That would ensure it would not break free. As I stated some holes would also provide a mechanical bond as well. I also think you'll need some sort of center support to avoid flex but as you said a joist from the bow to the bulkhead could take care of that.

 

[Dwfroghunter]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

I'm about to bite the rebuild bullet myself on a tri hull and need all the education I can get.

What is PL?

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

I'm about to bite the rebuild bullet myself on a tri hull and need all the education I can get.

What is PL?

PL Premium. It's a wood glue. Very strong wood glue.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

PL Sticks Really Well when its a Wood to Wood adhesion when the wood is clean and dry. But.. This is Wood to either a Painted or Gelcoated Fiberglass surface. The adhesion properties of PL for this application is suspect, IMHO. If the Wood and the Glass is properly prepped IT MIGHT be ok but, if the Wood and the glass is properly prepped and Thickened Poly resin is used (what we call Peanut Butter (PB)) then I'm very confident based on experience and research that it would work and last a long time.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Instead of peanut butter to secure the 1x4 do you think i can just get a layer of csm or mat and wet it out on the hull, then wet out the side of the 1x4 and clamp it to the hull? Maybe that would save me some resin?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Instead of peanut butter to secure the 1x4 do you think i can just get a layer of csm or mat and wet it out on the hull, then wet out the side of the 1x4 and clamp it to the hull? Maybe that would save me some resin?

The PB is more forgiving & will allow you to run wood (flat) against a contoured hull (not flat) w/out distorting the hull overclamping the lumber trying to get good bond.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

You need to grind the hull regardless. You can't just stick it to what's there now