1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

[sphelps]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Hi cgildea ! I would think it's not gunna take much more resin to go ahead and glue your kleats in with the poly pb . Like jb said it will help fill in and contour to the shape of the hull better . If this is a tub type constructed hull I would use pb and run a s/s or deck screw in it about every 12" or so then glass over them . Or do like WOG posted and drill some holes through the kleat and the hull . It makes like a pb nail that really helps with strength. The pb oozes through the holes to help bond . This is a tub type hull right ? If not then just use pb with no fasteners .. Good luck it's gunna make a nice fishing rig !

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild



Got a little grinding done, i dont plan on trying to attach it to the gelcoat. I plan on grinding all the gelcoat off as its cracking and just old. I see what you guys are saying about the peanut butter being more forgiving than trying to clamp a board and distorting the hull in the process. What is a tub style hull?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

A tub style boat looks sort of like a vintage clawfoot tub: Rolled lip & no real 'cap' around the top of the hull (the joint a rub rail is usually covering) w/ a large tub 'like' interior. Exactly like your's:

Not a 2 piece cap & hull:

Different from a liner style boat that looks the same but is actually 2 hulls separated by an air void or foam like a Whaler:

 

[gddavid]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

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[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

As for covering the deck, my local boat yard only carries csm and woven roven. My deck will be 3/4 and braced well. I plan on covering the top and bottom with csm. Then for the top will one layer of 6oz cloth over the csm be enough? I plan on using 7" wide 1708 biaxial for tabbing. Just not sure about how thick to make the the top layer of glass

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

That should be fine for that deck. I might go with 2 layers of CSM for added waterproofing but 1 would prolly get the job done if you are careful and get good coverage with the resin on both the CSM and the 1708. Where are you going to get the 1708 and the 6 oz if your supplier only carries WR and CSM? What kind of Resin does he carry? What kind of prices does he offer? Where are you located?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

Sounds like a plan:

My deck will be 3/4 and braced well. I plan on covering the top and bottom with csm. Then for the top one layer of 6oz cloth over the csm

Depends on what texture you want left behind after your final layer of glass. If you want to use the 6oz, put it between the layers of CSM. That'll help leave the smoothest surface possible as a finished glass surface. It'll need paint, gelcoat or some other sort of coating as the final walking surface.

The deck graphic I linked suggests using only 2 additional layers of CSM after laying the deck (which got 100% wrapped in CSM prior to it's installation) NO roving required. You could add the 6oz if you'd like it to be even firmer under foot. Adding 6oz might allow you to get by w/ 1/2" or 5/8" decking, that's likely a closer match to the original, and still be as firm under foot as 3 layers total, of CSM, is on 3/4" decking.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

Yup, this^^ B true 1 layer CSM 1 layer 6 oz 1 layer CSM = STRONG Deck using 1/2" Ply. Especially if you use your longitudinal brace from bow to bulkhead. Even my Big Fat Okie Behind would not budge it!!!! Wellllllll....Maybe just a little!!!!!

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

I live in south MS. I can get 5 gallons poly resin for about $120. Csm is 1.50 a foot and woven is 1.75 a foot for a 50" wide roll. I was gonna grt the csm and resin local. Then order the 1708 and cloth and 1/4" fiber strands and the cab o sil from fiberglasssite probably. Still looking around. I definitely want a textured finish to help cover up some blemishes or screw ups.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

OK, why would you order from Fiberglassite in Maryland when you live in So. Mississippi? Florida is much closer and shipping should be less expensive for you from there. USComposites.com prices and products are very good. Make sure the local resin is Isophthalic Laminating Un Waxed resin and that it's fresh. If they've had it in a barrel for a long time it can go bad. Also the MEKP hardener has a shelf life that's even shorter and it can go bad too. USC Guarantees their resin. 5 Gallons $125 + Shipping and HazMat FEES = Approx $225 delivered. Does your $120 costs include the MEKP hardener?? USC sells 50" 1.5 oz CSM for $3.40 a yard as compared to $4.50 for your local guy. With shipping it would still be less than your cost. 1708 is $8.50 a yard.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

I havent decided exactly where im gonna order it from. The $120 includes hardener. Hes a nice guy and took care of me the first round so a few bucks to buy local doesnt bother me. Just certain things i have to order offline. Fiberglasssite was the first site i looked at and calculated shipping. Im gonna get on today after work and look at a few different places. I have to calculate how much mat and cloth im gonna need first

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

well im definitely going to get the resin locally. I went and talked to the guy today. they had a very limited supply of fiberglass supplies as its cold and he said there's no use in ordering a bunch of stuff for it to sit on the shelf. i'm going to do the rear deck first. tell me if my plan of attack seems right. I plan on cutting the sides and rear of the deck at a 70 degree angle to make it easier to fill. Coat the bottom with a layer of csm, let it dry. coat the sides 2-3 times. peanut butter the lip where it will be attached. seat the deck in the peanut butter. then fill in the sides with more peanut butter to round out the angle for the glass. wet out the deck and put a layer of csm down. tab the deck with 6" 1708. 2" on hull 4" on deck first layer. then, 4" on hull 2" on deck. wet out deck and lay out 6 oz cloth let it tack up then run another layer of csm over it. am I missing anything?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

IMHO don't think the 70? angle is required. Just cut it about 3/8 shy of the edge all around so the PB will ooze up and around the edges will be plenty good. You glass layup sounds good. Make sure to Pre-coat the wood first with heavy coat or 2 of resin before laying any glass and fill any voids in the wood. Voids cause air bubbles.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

I wasnt going to cut the angle but i dont really want to cut it too short. I plan on using the lip on the side of the boat and want all the contact area i can on the bottom. So i figured if i cut the top at an angle i can have more contact area at the bottom. If that makes sense

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

It does, but trust me once the PB and the Glass tabbing goes on if all you've got is 1/4" hanging on the cleat it's be more than enuf. Do what your want but the Strength is in the Glass.

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

sounds good to me. im going to try to make it to harbor freight to get the sander attachment for my angle grinder. im tired of using this flap disc

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

There ya Go!!! Mighty Fine lookin Template if ya ask me. But of Course you didn't!!!!:lol:

 

[cgildea]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild



got the bulkhead template done. im going to make another template off of my templates now. I used a pocket knife instead of a razor so my cuts are a little jagged as you can tell. so probably next weekend I will get the wood cut then have it sit in my room till it warms up.......

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1976 correct craft tri hull rebuild

I wouln't worry about getting them 'Perfect" You'll be "filleting" them to the hull so as long as you're within 3/8" or so you're good to go. They look good to me just the way they are. Have you ordered your CSM and Resin yet?