1976 Johnson seahorse now no spark

[Jeffdoss]

Yeah I have it was 110 on both cylinders and I got the ngk plugs they were calling for and gapped them at .30 and I'm using some expensive oil I got from the boat place just can't remember the name of it

 

[Pusher]

I hope you didn't mix the fuel while having a brewskie ;-)

 

[Pusher]

I don't remember, do you get power out of the motor when it's running? Can you have advanced or retarded timing on these things?

 

[Jeffdoss]

Haha no I didn't and just taking the flywheel off and putting it back on shouldn't have got it out of timing but I'm just gonna take it to the shop and get it fixed I believe

 

[Jeffdoss]

And yes I get power out of the motor while running

 

[gm280]

Jeff since you did state that you sheared off the shear key, that tells me you didn't have the flywheel torqued on with the correct torque. And while I have no idea what the torque would be for your engine, in my factory shop manual for a '76 40 HP Johnson engine it is 100-105 foot pounds. And that is a lot. Also make absolutely sure the tapered shaft and the flywheel mating tapers are 100% totally clean and dry without any oil, grease or any thing but clean metal when reassembling them back together. Never use any type lubricant on the tapered areas. JMHO

 

[Jeffdoss]

Ok will do and yeah the guy that worked on it didn't put it back on all the way and didn't tell me so when I got it back and tried to start it it kinda flopped around and scored up the inside of it a little bit makes me wanna go back and tell him how I feel but when my points condensors and flywheel key gets here tomorrow hopefully I can see if it works if not to the shop it goes just don't wanna pay the 95 a hour labor when I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but don't understand electrical like I do the mechanic side of things

 

[gm280]

Ok will do and yeah the guy that worked on it didn't put it back on all the way and didn't tell me so when I got it back and tried to start it it kinda flopped around and scored up the inside of it a little bit makes me wanna go back and tell him how I feel but when my points condensors and flywheel key gets here tomorrow hopefully I can see if it works if not to the shop it goes just don't wanna pay the 95 a hour labor when I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but don't understand electrical like I do the mechanic side of things

Jeff, I would clean up any scour marks and clean both taper sections (crankshaft taper and flywheel taper) clean and install the shear key and torque it up and try it. I think after checking everything you may be pleasantly surprised. If you install the points gapped at 0.020" and the condensers and make sure everything is installed so no wires are exposed to the spinning flywheel, you may find your engine runs. JMHO

 

[Pusher]

And you'll know your flywheel is torqued down properly

 

[Jeffdoss]

What's the easiest why to keep the flywheel from spinning while doing that with that much force on it

 

[gm280]

What's the easiest why to keep the flywheel from spinning while doing that with that much force on it

You can install a couple bolt in two of the three threaded holes on the top of the flywheel and wedge a pry bar to hold the flywheel while torquing it to the proper setting. The actually have a special tool that bolts on all three threaded hole in the shop manual. But I think two bolts with a wedged pry bar will work. JMHO

 

[Jeffdoss]

Ok I appreciate all the information and tips y'all are pretty knowledgeable and helpful

 

[interalian]

Strap wrench works.

 

[Tim Frank]

You can install a couple bolt in two of the three threaded holes on the top of the flywheel and wedge a pry bar to hold the flywheel while torquing it to the proper setting. The actually have a special tool that bolts on all three threaded hole in the shop manual. But I think two bolts with a wedged pry bar will work. JMHO

My (Canadian ) variation is to use a 3' length of hockey stick handle cut from a broken-bladed stick and drill two through-holes and bolt to the two holes you reference.
Not significantly different, but eliminates the very slight chance of the bar slipping on you.

 

[gm280]

My (Canadian ) variation is to use a 3' length of hockey stick handle cut from a broken-bladed stick and drill two through-holes and bolt to the two holes you reference.
Not significantly different, but eliminates the very slight chance of the bar slipping on you.

Yea the factory version is really nice and totally slip proof as well. It is a plate with three holes drill through it with that large access hole in the center so you can use a torque wrench and it also has a long handle on it to hold. But who know what that would cost and how many times would a person actually need something like that. :noidea: