1976 mercury 9.8 110 no middle middle speeds wont throttle up most of time?

Bassman86

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yah I knew they were on the crankshaft I just wasn't sure about access. it's not hard it seems to pull the powered? head im gonna go for a rebuild I think I've never done one but it doesn't appear to bad on this small motor. do you have an info or advice to offer on this and how do you know when the reeds are bad and seals are bad? I read the lower seal is hard how come?
 

Bassman86

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I got the flywheel off and will order the top seal. I don't see any viSable damage or problems I do see light flaking and some very hard small lacquer looking pieces around the o ring for the bearing assy. but no metal pieces of chips is there anything I should be looking for? and is the lower seal the same?
 

Bassman86

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ive pulled the powerhead and am getting parts im working on opening the block how do i know reed valves are bad and what else do i look for or replace while im at it..and i cant find the lower powerhead block to exhaust hosing gasket part? also are the seals thsat wear out and need replaced just the upper and lower oil seals? anything helps guys
 

Chinewalker

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Reeds will be apparent if they're bad. Good ones lay flat on the reed block and are intact. Bad ones may be visibly bent, cracked or chipped. You can often hear evidence of this without pulling the powerhead apart - they'll "honk" if good when you pull the motor over, and you can see them flutter a bit if you look into the crankcase when turning the powerhead over.
 

Bassman86

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i think they are good but im wondering if they were just sticking closed from the motor sitting for a cpl years without being prepped? it would make an almost goose like sound when turning the flywheel by hand before i opened it all up..my problem was throttle not speeding up other than low idling type speeds or it was wide open throttle no middle at all, and when i did get it tp speed up it would not go then all of a sudden jump wide open and run fine but as soon as i lowered speed it would drop down to idling speeds and would not speed up again, but after a cpl minutes of trying it would just jump wide open again. inside i see pieces of what looks like dried lacquer what could that be and what else should i be doing why this block is open apart? i did see the oil seals were very loose i was also having starting trouble as in even after running and the engine being hot if i stopped immediately it would not start right up again it would be like starting it from cold again which wasnt easy as it was. im trying to get this tip top again i really appreciate all the help, ill be sure to share my learned knowledge to other when i can, thanks
 
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Bassman86

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is there anyone that's seen this that has experience with this powerhrad and repairing it or rebuilding I have some questions that are probably easy but I'm unsure and would like some input.
 

racerone

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I rebuid these motors all the time !!!-------They are easy to do and I have 40+ years experience rebuilding motors like that.---------Sometimes folks are reluctant to use top notch advice , not sure why.
 

Bassman86

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it seems very easy I want to make sure I'm being thorough but also dont want to just replace everything for no reason. id like to learn the cause of my issues and fix the problem. I have the whole powerhead off and open it took about 20 min. I look at the reeds and the are nice shiny smooth steel no chips cracks etc they lay flat on 2 I think I may possibly see the tiniest little gap like they aren't laying on the reed block i mean tiny if any less than 1/64. is there a chance they are bad anyways? and what is your approach to the the seal or cap on the end of the crankshaft not the oil seal the one after that do you replace it? I'm assuming it has to come off to change the lower oil seal? what else should I be looking for and what else could be causing my problems? or was this your advice for the problems I had to change the crankshaft seals?
 

racerone

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Inspect the bore of the reed valve assembly.---That is also a seal.
 

emckelvy

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The center bore of the aluminum reed block has circumferential grooves machined into it where it contacts the crankshaft. These grooves serve as a "labyrinth seal" to isolate the fuel air charge of #1 cyl from #2 cyl, and vice-versa.

If these grooves are worn, the motor will be hard to start and idle poorly. But a lot of other things can cause that, too. I have never seen worn reed block on a small Twin, but it does happen quite often on the larger Inline Fours and Sixes.

If you do take your reed block off the crankshaft, it splits into 2 halves. Inspect the grooves, they should be sharp and well defined. If the aluminum is worn or mushroomed, the reed block must be replaced.

Bad crankshaft seals will make a motor really cranky. If your seals were really loose on the crankshaft, that's likely part of the problem.\

Unless a reed is "sprung" such that it won't come off the reed block, stuck way open, or cracked, it's OK. Ever-so-slightly sprung off the reed block won't hurt a thing.

By now I expect you've pulled the rotating assembly out of the block, how do the pistons, rings, & cylinder bores look? If the pistons are all chewed-up, it won't run well, either. A new set of rings and a quick deglaze with a ball hone (if you can find one that small) should make it run like new.

HTH, let us know what you find.........ed
 

Bassman86

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that was a great explanation thank you.the pistons look good the rings look good except one ring on one cylinder had about 1/2" broke off one but bit was still in the piston and there was no damage to the cylinder or piston. in the crankcase there was what looked like dried lacquer tiny pieces I can not find what may have caused it. when I think of it thr upper seal was basically out when I got to it and the lower one seemed very loose. I've ordered new rings, have complete carb rebuild kit, new oil seal upper and lower, a few power head gaskets, new plugs and basically new wiring to the motor. i aleeady did rhe impeller. im hopinh this fixes and gets her right i don't want to spend another 50 + on reeds. when doing these is it easy enough to get the pistons back in by hand or do you usually use a ring compressor? also pain in the butt needle bearings on rod!
 

racerone

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?????-----You are aware that the 2 crankcases are completely seperate as far as the air / fuel mixture is concerned ?---------There must be a seal on the crankshaft !!!
 

Bassman86

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I inspected the area of the block that meets the shaft it looks pretty good on one side of the shaft I can see where it turns it's shiny and the same in the aluminum but it doesn't look worn.I should start receiving all my parts shortly that I ordered. I'm going to use my existing reed block and reeds and hope I didn't miss anything. but I will hone the cylinders. other than a little fouling in the bottom of the Pistons they aren't bad so Im replacing the rings only. I got both crankshaft oil seals new as well as the crankshaft end seal assy. and new o ring for the main top bearing so it should be sealed up as well as can be when done. I also got the other gaskets for the outer covers etc of the block as well. I got rebuild kit for the carb but I didnt get a seat for the needle for the float and a spring so im assuming I don't need the spring for this needle. I will have new spark plugs in before I'm done, then I start installation. Im pretty sure I've covered my bases if I'm missing something please tell me. after the block is on I'll test and install the electrical components
 
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