1976? Reinell tri hull restoration

[ssaumure]

I recently purchased a reinell tri hull with a Johnson 90HP outboard. This is my first boat and my first restoration. My plan is to restore it in 2 parts. First I plan to get her sea worthy and use it this year. Then over the cold cold winter I'll make her shine!

The previous owner would beach the boat on gravel which wore a hole in the keel. The floor was rotted, the floor they put on top of that floor was rotted and the third floor they put on was also rotted (evidently they didn't learn). Pulled up the floor, foam is water logged and the stringers are rotted. The transom looks solid but given the amount of rot I'll want to have a closer look.

This weekend I will glass the hole in the keel (and the small hole I cut while removing the floor).

So here's my question. Given I have never done this I am not overly confident in my abilities. I planned to repair the holes then take it out on the lake to test for leaks. I would just put it in the water for a few hours before putting in the floor or foam. Just wondering if it's ok to do this?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Not really sure what your asking. Its ok to get it sea worthy and use it for the season. But..whats it gonna take to get it there?

Grab some pics so we can see this puppy. But from what you said the stringers are shot along with the deck and 200lbs of wet foam. Transom is probably questionable.

Im just guessing here..but it sounds like you should start on your gut job Now and call a friend when you have that boating itch to scratch. This is really the best time to do it with the temps being warmer and all...

 

[ssaumure]

Already have the floor pulled out, stringers pulled out and have started on the grinding. When I get the hole repaired is it ok to put her in the water before putting in the foam and floor?

 

[ssaumure]

I will have pictures posted this weekend. I have a number of ideas I'd love to get peoples opinions on.

 

[ondarvr]

No real reason to put it in the water after patching the hole.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm, you can't operate the boat when there's no stringers or deck in her. The Hull will not support the weight. You MUST reinstall and glass the stringers and deck back into the hull before launching the boat. I'm betting the transom will need replacing as well.

 

[dOb]

If I read correctly, you're asking if you can patch the keel and then put her in the water just to check for leaks before you proceed. If that's the case, then I guess you could, but I don't think it's necessary.If you go a good job inside and out on the patch work, you really won'y need a water test. You'll be able to tell if the patch is good or not.
Also, on my last boat I did what you are considering. I fixed her up one year and then painted the next. but I will warn you that painting the underside of a boat is no fun.

Post some pictures.

Good luck.

 

[ssaumure]

Oh the underside it going to be a nightmare. I don't know what it was last painted with but it has the texture of sand paper. Add to that the curves of the tri hull may make using the sander difficult under there. Thinking I'm going to be doing a lot of sanding by hand lol.

 

[ssaumure]

Actually dOb, I read through your Reinell restore. I fully intend to steal your idea on the bow seating. They look fantastic.

 

[ssaumure]

So this weekend I have been down with a flu so there was no progress on the boat. I did get a few pictures though.

This is the old girl. I plan to make her shine like new.



The floor was completely rotted


The foam was completely saturated, half convinced it outweighed my truck lol
The stringers were also completely rotted. There was no way to salvage them for a template so I'll have to figure a way to cut new ones.


I have started on the grinding but am at an impass until I get the top off. I was planning to do that this weekend but fell sick Friday night. Any words of advice before I pull it off?

 

[gm280]

ssaumure, if it is any consolation, you have the exact same rotted structural problems that nearly 100% of other boaters come on these forums with. I know that doesn't make you feel any better. But I say that so you realize there is hope and great assistance on these forums to get your boat solid and ready for the water again. Yes do remove the cap and let's get going. You are presently starting on the absolute worst dirtiest, nastiest, smelliest job on refurbishing any glass boat. It is rotted wood and who knows what other things you'll find. But once it is all cleared out of your way, then the next crappiest job starts. And that is the grinding of all that old fiberglass and whatever to get to good clean fiberglass again. But that all has to be done first! I also suggest you read a few of the other refurbishing threads on here to get familiar with both the terminology and the sequence of events. There are no shortcuts. So if you're ready, you come to the best place on the net for doing what you are wanting to do to refurbish your boat! One other very important issue. You MUST use the proper PPE (Personal Protection Equipment) equipment or your health will be seriously effected...that is not stated to scare you, but merely the honest truth! You have to use a proper air respirator. Seems most on here like the 3M 6700 series with replaceable cartridge filters. Should be able to pick up a totally ready to go setup for around $20. Buy one! Eyes need protection as well... Second most important thing is, we love pictures on here. I mean we really do love pictures! It allows us to see what you're dealing with and to also see your progress. So post away and lets go... :thumb:

 

[ssaumure]

Oh I realized the PPE was vital the first day. I have the mask and goggles. I did make a mistake with the tyvek suit and got ones without hoods. That was a mistake. Lost two nights sleep due to the glass dust on the back of my neck. Lol

 

[Quantumn]

As GM280 pointed out, it is a sequence of events to restoring a glasser, though every boat has its own charm and build techniques. Thus what is needed on yours is not necessary on others and vice versa. The initial demo can be daunting at first but if you set up little goals it is actually not all that bad. Taking pictures along the way not only helps us to help you but is a great motivator as you progress and look back at where you started and how far you've come. Also try to not let it consume your every moment, we all need time for ourselves and loved ones.
Now about the hooded tyvek, definitely a must, and if your local temperatures allow, wearing a long sleeve turtleneck t-shirt and lots of talcum powder will help to prevent a lot of scratching episodes. I have also heard that masking tape applied then removed can solve some of the itching affected skin areas. (Though I provide a disclaimer on this as I have never tried it before, I just live with the itching, lol)
Keep your chin up and she will be the pride that lasts you a lifetime.

 

[ssaumure]

Thanks Quantumn. I've been laid out with kidney stones the last little while so haven't had a chance to get any work done. I'm hoping this weekend to be able to go hard if the weather allows. I unfortunately don't have a garage so am also at the mercy of mother nature.

Here's a question, I have a friend who lives on an anchorage just outside of town and he's offered to allow me to store the boat top there while I work on the hull. Do I risk damage if I transport it with the top removed?

 

[ssaumure]

Ok, transom is rotted and grinding is underway. Should have more pics this evening. In the mean time I have a couple questions. On the starboard side I have 2 spots that will need work. There is this one.


This is well above the water line so should I grind it down and glass it or just full it in?

The second is this one


This is work the previous owner did, looks like bondo. I have looked on the inside and see no damage inside the hull. Given that it is below the water line should I just sand it smooth and paint over it or grind it off to see what he was patching?

 

[ssaumure]

Another thought I had. I would like to put in a pylon for the kid to wakeboard and ski behind. I would like it to be removable as well. I was thinking of running 2-2X6 between the stringers, flush with the top of the stringers. I would have a hole through the first 2X6 and the floor to support the base of the pole. It would rest on the top of the lower 2X6. The top of the pole would be supported by straps near the top. When not in use the hole would be covered by a deck plate.

Does anyone see this causing any issues?

 

[ssaumure]

About 90% done the grinding. Was able to pull the outer board on the transom to use as a template for the new one. Didn't seem to be any adhesive holding the two transom boards together, just a ton of staples.


You can see the hole up at the front, will get a better shot of it tomorrow.

 

[ssaumure]

Ok I have a transom question. I noticed when removing the old on there is about a 1 inch space between the transom and the side walls as well as along the bottom. Is this normal or should the boards fully cover the transom wall?

 

[gm280]

Ok I have a transom question. I noticed when removing the old on there is about a 1 inch space between the transom and the side walls as well as along the bottom. Is this normal or should the boards fully cover the transom wall?

I would think you would have a much stronger transom/boat setup with those gaps filled in and glassed over with 1708 and such. Because the transom blended into the sides and bottom will allow the engine to apply force on the entire hull instead of just the transom. I'm surprised it wasn't built that way... JMHO!

 

[ssaumure]

I thought that myself, perhaps due to the rounded corner? Wouldn't be that hard to shape the hull to match it though.
I did read somewhere that there is supposed to be a gap at the bottom, can anyone confirm this?