1976 Ted Williams 15HP

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tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Mr. Crabs...thanks, I knew I could count on you! As for the redundancy, I welcome it. I did want to ask you though...the shift rod boot looks to be in great shape. Can I do this without replacing?
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

I have one that looks great too and is for all practical purposes is new....but its still leaks, however IMHO the design is flawed, radial shaft seals are a poor idea for a up and down shifting rod....its not spinning and the tiny little seal wears a tad and then leaks past the wiper and boot.
so far I just check and change the lube until I get time to change it out, its not like I'm using it all that much having a good size collection of the beast.

the shift seal is the weakest link in this whole lower unit, on the other hand the Eska twins lower unit is as tuff and simple as they come:)
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Dave be sure to line up the tangs on the pump base with the slots on the new seal retainer, new retainers are black and of a softer material,
 

tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Mr. Crabs,

I wanted to let you know that I drained the lower unit from the old housing and quite a bit of H2O came out before the gear lube. Does that mean the shifter boot allowed water in or could it have been someting else? I will disassemble the lower unit to make sure all gears are in good working order to swap into new housing.

Thanks for the tips!
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

If it can leak out it can leak in, shift seals will most likley show there leak when the motor is placed prop down on the floor.
Honestly a complete re seal of the lower unit is cheap and easy....you will have peace of mind and years of trouble free use....most Eska lower unit seals rot out rather than wear out.

I give my new lower O'rings a light coat of permatex Hylomar "the racer's edge"
 

tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Mr. Crabs,

I pulled the prop shaft from the old housing. It came slightly apart and I am a little worried about putting it back together poperly. The gears and bearing all look to be in great shape. This lower unit had a total of about 15 hours on it. Is there a good repair manual that you would recommend? Also, if you know of all the seals I would need, I would greatly appreciate the part numbers and are they available from the same source you previously provided?

Again, I appreicate all of your help.
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Here is what I do,
go to sear parts direct http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/brands/Craftsman-Parts plug in my model number and then take model search from the drop down menu, look at the diagrams for your unit, take down the parts numbers ( same as Eska;s ) in most case, most sears numbers are NLA and Sears is a costly shipper.
Then call CPC, you will get Diann or Vern, tell them what you got and what you need and maybe tell them where you heard about them :) if you want to. Do not ask for technical support, ie How too's...have your 217-xxxx model number or Eska model no. in hand, they just sell parts because CPC owns what is left of Eska stock Rupp and a few other name brands from years gone bye and still make some OE hgh demand parts fresh,..as a plus there parts are usally nice and fresh anyway and have not been handled by 6 people before you....lol

The lower is simple, just lay it out in order...search for the little pins to diassemble it completely if you want or need to...other wise the only trick is try and catch the fork when you re install and never try pulling it in to much with the bolts....I use permatex Hylomar on my, big O ring seal.

I have a 1973 15hp twin Ted Williams side pumper with about 25hrs or less on it, my shifter boot looks brand new too but leaks when layed prop down..although my oil was water free this fall when I changed it, I did replace the drive shaft seal and retainer. mine had its original gear lube in it and it looked brand new :)a rare Barn find, the hood was so nice I keep it in my bed room....lol

PS , you can buy a shop manual for 30+$, but the sear diagrams are plenty easy to see how thing go together
 

tullydf

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Messages
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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Mr. Crabs,

The gears in the lower unit look excellent...no signs of wear whatsoever. There seems to be a sort of bearing (not ball bearing but pins in the extreme back of the lower unit housing. Is this bearing removable and if so is a special tool required. The one in my replacement housing doesn't look great, but it may be beacause it has not had gear lubricant on it for some time and has seemed to dry out.

I also admit that while I want to replace the shift boot, I am a little intimidated at attempting your fix. I'm worried I could screw it up.

I also cannot get the old impeller off the shaft. The shaft from the impeller to about 8 inces below the top of the shaft has corrosion and pitting and the impeller seems frozen to the shaft. Any suggestions for this situation?
 

tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Mr. Crabs,

Got the impeller off by using hack saw blade. Should I sand the drive shaft to make it smooth?
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Well you got to do what you got to do....its important for the impeller to move up and down on the shaft with the engine RPM, as you increase RPM the pinion gear climbs a bit by design, if the impeller is locked tight on the shaft its life is shortened and pumping performance declines as RPM's increase, not to mention what it does to the pinion and gear, generally the impeller doesn't last long enough to hurt the pinion too much...this is true for most all outboards.
 

tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Mr Crabs,

Do you know if the needle bearing in the extreme rear of the lower unit housing is replaceable? If so, is a special tool required? Also, if I decide to take my chances and use the shifter boot, how does the o ring orient with it...does it go inside shifter boot on shift rod?

I've inspected and cleaned all lower unit parts. Gears show no sign of wear. I am getting excited about putting it all back together.
 

tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Oh...in addition to above, are the ring clamps still available? If so where?
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Yes they are replaceable, it should be a torrington bearing which is now Koyo and most numbers cross over in my experiance, you may even find the torrington part...you do need a special puller back there and that might be a big challange unless you have a friend in the business with that type of full complement bearing puller and even then aluminum to stainless corrosion may have you beat before you start, why do you think you need to replace them, are they rusted up? how does the shaft end look? is it gailed or worn?? usally unless the lower has set full of water this is the last bearing to need service.

I strongly suggest not to use the old shifter wiper and boot and tiny seal setup, the little seal that was used at the bottom of the shift well is not sufficant to keep it sealed and the wiper is just that....a leaky old rubber coated steel wiper....the boot is simply a deflector, I have covered that update 20 times here and at the Eska yahoo group....I can't off hand give you a O'ring parts number but the udate cost all of about $4 and is easy pizzy and a sure bett to resolve that tiny radial seal issue, I can tell you its a common Fat OMC shift seal O'ring and a brass washer with some dremel work, and the theory for me is a radial seal are just that....made for spinning shafts not sliding shafts, and its so easy and cheap I consider it the best cheapest upgrade to the Eska twin you could make in the lower unit.

let me know if you can't find it through the search function and I will hunt it down and post it again, try searching OMC shift shaft seal
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

What ring clamps are we taking about? I missed that one

the O'ring sierra part no.18-7137

Sierra Marine 18-7137-9 - O-ring (pk5) @ MarineEngine.com
=

View attachment 180878View attachment 180879 Eska shift seal compared to the OMC part, with the brass washer I just ruff up and clean both surfaces and glue it down... after shaping to fit the pump contour and inlarging the shaft hole on the washer, on my later mods I make the hole much bigger for better drainage, understand that the Eska seal fits a tiny hole at the bottom of the well and I usally leave the old one in but would have no problem tossing it out, you can also double up on the OMC part if you want...there is plenty of room in the shifter well for two.
 

tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Alright Mr. Crabs, you convinced me. I will give that upgrade a go once I have completed the rest of the lower unit.

As always...Thanks for your input. I've seen you all over in many other forums. God Bless you!
 

tullydf

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

The clamp I was referring to is the c clamp that you need the ring clip pliers for beneath the white bearing retainer. It got a little bent up upon removal.
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

yeah that can be a bugger and you usally need the small C clip pliers, but its a common C clip...just remember the flat side down.
also this clip releases the pinion gear and out comes the bearing and drive shaft....

And thank you for the Blessing, I honestly need one today,
I realize many times I'm worse than crabby but know that my firm comitment to my fellow man especially my fellow sportsmans and gearheads is strong regardless of the weight on my shoulders which is the root of much of my crabby ole attitude.

May God Bless you too,
Mrcrabs
 
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mrcrabs

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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

you can get that C clip at most truevalue hardware stores....I see them there at ours
 

tullydf

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Sep 3, 2012
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Re: 1976 Ted Williams 15HP

Mr. Crabs,

By the way, what's the best way to remove the shifter boot...just cut flush with razor?
 
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