1977 1150 trim cylendar bracket removal

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Jun 9, 2018
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Suppose you wanted to remove this bracket and service the trim limit switch. How would you go about doing it and how hard might it be
 

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Chris1956

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The trim bracket is easy to take off, if the bolts into the transom bracket come out. The bolt should be SS and the transom bracket is tool steel, so there will be some rust.

You might first see if parts for the trim limit switch are avail.

If it were me (and it was, some time ago), just bypass the trim limit switch. On most boats the motor will ventilate before trim limit is reached, so trim by feel and ear.
 
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It is bypassed currently, just an ocd thing where I want the feature working. I’m not desperate to get it working but it’s a lingering nagging annoyance.
Im starting to think the corrosion on the pins? Has more or less welded it in place. My one thought was wait until I replace the transom and I have it off. Then I just need one of the 2 pins loose and it’ll pivot. Then I can clean/rebuild the switch.
Othwrwhise something like an air chisel to vibrate it loose.
 
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I forgot my other crazy idea. The port side trim/tilt cylinder is the same as the starboard. So I could move the adjuster to the other side. Drill and perhaps thread a hole. It would be on the outside so it’s accessible. Find a waterproof button to insert. Crazy and desperate perhaps but doesn’t risk damaging 40 year old pins that have seen salt water a few times.
On the extra plus side, when I go to teach My wife and kids to Operate the boat I don’t have to teach them to listen for engine sounds.
 

Chris1956

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You can cut the bottom pin. It is really just to keep the trim bracket lined up when installing the motor.
 

Chris1956

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It should be a 1/2" fine thread bolt, in stainless steel. It will be hard to break. Also the steel pin that goes thru the transom brackets is replaceable, or at least it was some years ago. You might verify you can get it, before breaking it.

Are you sure you want to go down this road for a miserable trim limit switch?
 
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Am I sure? Heck no, but I hate having this thing not work lol. But I looked up the two potential parts that could get damaged and if I ruined them both I’d be out $25... so when have $25 to waste I may try it anyway. I thought it was like $100 but the no longer available version WAS that much or more, new version is reasonable. Might not be a bad idea some day anyway because the bolts that thread into it appear to be missing anyway.
My options are that, fabricate something on the other side, might be easier. Or get a new set trim control for up front so I don’t have that third button constantly nagging me, reminding me something is broken.
 
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Yeah, not worth the effort. Don’t get me wrong, it works perfectly now. Button was gunked up and jammed, needed a new return spring, splice wires... Reseal, good to go!
 
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