1977 35hp Johnson?Serial# 35ELL77h....Bucking/Misfiring

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

I?ve been trouble shooting some issues for some time now with my motor. It runs strong!!!
The issue I?m having is with it bucking/misfiring at certain intervals running through its cycle from slow idle-to wide open throttle. Initially I wasn?t aware that the CD2 motor was a coil and sensor motor so I was thinking I?d need to adjust the points for timing adjustments.
This motor starts up every time but I need to feather the throttle to run nice and smooth?.When I go through the range of throttle up to wide open, it will sputter?.but not loose power. There?s an issue with timing somewhere. The P.O. set a timing marker on the starter motor bracket with permanent marker. There is also another marking with the same color permanent marker on the flywheel at the 34 degree marking. There is a yellow sticker on the spark arrestor which indicates that the advance timing should be set at 34 Degrees W.O.T.
The manual says my tune up specs should be at 30 degrees W.O.T?.Which I?m inclined to believe. I just bought a new timing light today and I would like to see if my motor is timed properly.
The manual says there is a locking nut and an adjustment screw for this procedure,(advance/retard timing), but the photo in the manual is poor and I can?t see where these screws are. Will someone point them out to me?
Also....
Is 30 Degrees the proper timing for this motor?

Lots of pictures below....

 

[flyingscott]

Before you do timing have you tried adjusting the carb and doing a link and sync

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

flyingscott....
I'm not at all familiar with that term....Is it difficult?
Does that have to do with the cam follower and roller bearing?

The manual explains how to adjust the throttle lever to match the line on the cam...I don't assume that would make sense to do this yet if timing "Is" the issue causing bucking. This is figure C-4 from the tune up specifications from the manual.

 

[flyingscott]

Yes, Get a good manual for your motor preferably a factory one. You can try this if it's a lean sneeze where it says rich / lean on the airbox turn the screw inside there towards rich a 1/4 turn at a time see if it smooths out. If that doesn't work then get the manual for the link and sync.

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

good suggestion, but I think I'll start with the timing issue....That's what i've been thinking of doing all along. The P.O. told me he had "a guy" that did his tune-ups.
I'm thinking he set the spark advance at 34 degrees....I just haven't been able to check this out. If it is set there....I need to know where the set screws are for the advanced throttle adjustment....Then I'll go through the primary pickup adjustment if needed. Can you tell me where that lock nut and adjustment screw are?
I'm not new to motors....Just outboard motors.....

This is the next issue I'll have to tackle....
I get a lot of vibration from this....
I wish I knew what everything is called.
It's below the magneto and armature plate.....The roller linkage that connects to the carburetor rides along the outside of it. I assume it opens the innermost butterfly valve.



It doesn't wobble....Up or down.
Just from side to side....But a very metallic clinking sound goes along with it....Something sounds worn.
Is this the cam follower?

Like I said....Not new to motors, just the parts of an outboard.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Have you established the timing indicator mark on the block? You have all sorts of markings on the flywheel. What marking on the block are you using to set the timing? Is it the metal marker at the front of the flywheel, left of the starter? Is there any way to validate that it's set at top dead center of #1 plug? I had a 79 35 hp. Ran it for years, then found out the upper crank bearing had loosened up. Esp the upper seal was damaged and the bearing was permitting the crank to "wobble" inside the block. I never knew it, as the engine still hauled like a trooper. Turns out it was a common, but fixable problem on these 35's. You might want to pull the flywheel and determine if your upper crank bearing is still functioning as new. Check the upper seal, too. It may need to be replaced. That would improve running and eliminate a lot of engine vibration.

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

I'll try to make a video of it today. That's the question that I have. How do I determine where the correct timing marker is? Flyingscott may be correct. After reading the timing section of the manual I may go after trying a link and sync as soon as I can figure out where all the correct screws are for the adjustments. Then I'll try to tackle the timing issue.

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

Is the flywheel itself keyed to the camshaft. Meaning if I pulled a flywheel, will it only go on the same way that it came off?

 

[interalian]

Yes, the flywheel is keyed to the crank. If you want to be 100% sure you know your TDC mark, you need a piston stop screwed into the #1 plug hole, then index both sides, divide between the marks , and that's TDC. It will change slightly when you take the flywheel off as there's some play in the keyway. Make sure you have the crank and flywheel tapers oil-free (clean with alcohol) before torquing to spec.

 

[Fatguynalittleboat...]

Can I use a piston stop tool to help me pull the fly wheel....Or would it be safer just to use a large strap wrench.

 

[lindy46]

Can I use a piston stop tool to help me pull the fly wheel....Or would it be safer just to use a large strap wrench.

I use a nylon ratchet strap wrapped around the perimeter of the flywheel several times, then tightened down.

 

[emdsapmgr]

I bought a cheap flywheel holder at a NAPA auto parts store. Works just fine on marine flywheels too.