1977 Glastron 175hp 175hpv “Free Boat” project

[Kaze]

First of all, I’m new to forums and new to this forum, and I apologize for making mistakes. I didn’t realize that some of these threads were 10+ years old, and that if you post something it can’t be deleted, so sorry about the newbie mistakes.
I’ve been looking at a lot of the information on here and trying to learn about boats as I’m new to owning a boat. I really don’t know where to go with this glastron fish and ski that I have. I’ve already spent a bunch of money on it just trying to get it home and stored. The trailer hubs had to be replaced, some wiring patched on the trailer, it will eventually need to be completely re-wired and repainted. So far, I’ve had to rebuild the trim tilt just so I could get the motor to go down. When I did this I had to take off one transom bracket to get the trim tilt out and the transom mount holes seemed ok. However, the bilge drain hole, live well through hull, and motor well drain thru-hull fittings were all busted and when I took them out I found rotten wood. I’m wondering if the transom needs to be replaced. There is a very soft spot in the floor that I will have to address, and it makes me wonder about the stringers.
the wiring is mostly missing except for the engine start cables and the harness that goes to the ignition switch. There’s a lot of mystery wires that seem to go nowhere. All the switches are out of the panels and are a mystery. The fuse panel has had the line wire cut. Wiring will need to be completely redone. No gauges work, except the trim gauge (because I replaced it). It’s a disaster. I’m was told that the fuel in the tank is contaminated and keeps plugging the jets in the carburetors, but other than that the engine used to run (years ago)
So… where to start. I basically know nothing about boats, or cars for that matter, but I do have a clymer manual.
Any advice is appreciated

 

[briangcc]

If you have a very soft spot in the floor, the chances are very good that the stringers and transom are also in need of replacement. The fact that when you removed the thru hull fittings and found rotten wood lends credence to the transom needing replacement.

The question becomes....do you want to spend a lot of time and $$$ restoring the boat? If so, it's time to document what you can and start tearing things apart. There's an untold number of people in the forums that started at the exact same place and with guidance from the folks here (and a willingness to ask for advice and heed it) managed to get their boats back on the water, in better than new form. Friscoboater's youtube series on his SeaRay restore is an excellent source of how-to information. There's stickies here as well going over materials, techniques, etc...

If this sounds like something that does not interest you, it may be better off to either part it out and recoup some of your losses OR sell it as a project and look for something more water ready. Be prepared to spend a good chunk of change if you go the newer route as 1. Boat prices are bonkers right now due to the pandemic and 2. Anything water ready is probably 5 years old or newer meaning $$,$$$.

 

[Kaze]

Thank you for the sage advice briangee. The high cost of boats right now is daunting. Also, due to my ignorance about all things boat related, I strongly hesitate to actually purchase a used boat that may be cosmetically concealing the same issues.
because of these two factors and the fact that the one who gifted me the boat was my Dad, I think the safest bet would be to tear this glastron down and start over. I’m concerned about the engine though. If the engine turns out to be bad and I’ve completely rebuilt the hull, would it have been worth the effort if I have to replace the engine.
So, my question now is, do I make repairs to the 175hp evinrude first, and then attack the hull, or do I do the hull first. Which is the bigger expense, hull repair, or engine repair? (I think the only thing wrong with the engine is the fuel system)

 

[KJM]

I'm no expert but in all likelihood the boat needs to be entirely gutted and rebuilt. Thats a lot of time and money. If the engine is that old too then it's also suspect in my opinion. Unless your a real handyman up for a challenge and have thousands of dollars to spend (and a very patient wife) and REALLY want a boat, then I'd probably get rid of it.

 

[Kaze]

I'm no expert but in all likelihood the boat needs to be entirely gutted and rebuilt. Thats a lot of time and money. If the engine is that old too then it's also suspect in my opinion. Unless your a real handyman up for a challenge and have thousands of dollars to spend (and a very patient wife) and REALLY want a boat, then I'd probably get rid of it.

Yeah…. Engine is the original 2-stroke.

 

[briangcc]

Sounds like you have some sentimental attachment to it.

So....if you have the time and the interest I'd go for it. As to the motor, that's probably one of the easier things to replace once you're to that point. I say easy as you can always find yourself a cheap, completely worn out boat with a good motor and use it as a donor for your rebuilt boat.

 

[briangcc]

Or if you come into a windfall of cash...I hear Honda 4 stroke outboards are VERY, VERY nice

 

[KJM]

If it was your fathers and he's no longer here then I understand the attachment, but don't let that get you in over your head. Think it through. Also Yamaha 4 strokes are VERY VERY VERY nice

 

[todhunter]

Take a few weeks off from stressing over what to do with the boat and watch all of Frisco Boater's videos on his SeaRay restoration, then watch JMink's videos on his Glastron restoration, then watch a bunch of Boatworks Today's videos. Then decide if hull restoration is something you want to do. You don't need to understand how to do all of it before you start - learn as you go.

I feel like mine went pretty fast and it's going to come out to be about 16 months. I've dedicated hundreds of hours after work in the evenings and on weekends on mine. It will cost several thousand dollars, but in the end you'll have a boat with sentimental value, and built as good or better than any boat you could spend the equivalent amount of money on (assuming you count your time invested as free).

If you decide to dive in, take pictures, notes, and make sketches and diagrams of everything before / as you start gutting.

 

[zool]

Do a compression test on the motor, if that checks out, drain some oil from the lower unit, if its not all milky, then the rest of the motor can be reasonable to get going, then the boat project will be much more appealing with a good motor.

You should at a minimum, check or replace the impeller in the pump housing before running it.

 

[Kaze]

Thanks zool. That sounds like a good place to start.
question; before I start cranking this motor over to do the compression test, do I need to fog spray the cylinders or anything like that? Is there a potential for the rings to scratch up the cylinder walls. I’m not a mechanic so I’m not sure how these things work.

 

[Kaze]

One bright side about the wiring being so messed up is that I don’t actually have to document how it currently is configured. lol
I will document the the start battery wires and harness though. Thank you all.

 

[zool]

Thanks zool. That sounds like a good place to start.
question; before I start cranking this motor over to do the compression test, do I need to fog spray the cylinders or anything like that? Is there a potential for the rings to scratch up the cylinder walls. I’m not a mechanic so I’m not sure how these things work.

A little 2 stroke oil in the cylinders is a good idea, if u havnt spun it yet, not wd40....marvel mystery oil is fine.

 

[racerone]

A compression test is the first thing to do.-------Spray some storage / fogging oil into each plug hole with piston near the top.----You want them all the same around 120 PSI.-----Many folks would say " Just buy a new 4 stroke"----I for one think that an older / easy to maintain 2 stroke is easier on my budget.------Not going to spend around $20,000 to save $500 / year on fuel.

 

[Kaze]

Did the compression check this morning. Engine doesn’t start, so it was a cold check. All six cylinders read between 110 and 112. Drained the lower unit oil, and it did have a tiny bit of milky oil come out at first, maybe a teaspoons worth. The rest was a dark green color. It also had a little trash in it. Not very much at all, and I couldn’t find it in the drain pan. Maybe if I sifted it with a coffee filter or something. Of course, it’s a bit cold here in Nashville, about 50 degrees this morning, so I’m thinking some of the “trash” I saw was just cold/thick fluid. I found one bit of metal shaving on the drain plug magnet as well.
What do you guys think? Does this sound like the engine passes the first test?


Couple of questions;
I thought I had bought lower unit oil, but I didn’t and I pretty much drained it empty. Can it sit like this for a week or so before it gets filled back up, or do I need to quickly get some new oil in there? Is lower unit oil engine specific?

 

[jbcurt00]

Best to treat this topic as your boat resto and start a topic about the motor in the motor forum.

 

[Kaze]

A few pics

 

[Kaze]

Best to treat this topic as your boat resto and start a topic about the motor in the motor forum.

Oh. Ok. My apologies. So if there’s a motor question it goes in the motor forum, electrical question, in the electrical forum, etc. is that right? Still learning.

 

[jbcurt00]

Yep. Helps those that can help w a certain aspect of a rebuild find the questions they can help answer.

Most engine problems (all?) are unrelated to the hull, it's construction and repair and fiberglass work is unrelated to the motor's repair

 

[Kaze]

Yep. Helps those that can help w a certain aspect of a rebuild find the questions they can help answer.

Most engine problems (all?) are unrelated to the hull, it's construction and repair and fiberglass work is unrelated to the motor's repair

Ok. Got it. Thank you.