1977 merc 1150 water pump question

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Nope, the pee tube is still hooked up. I have a feeling a spider built it's home in there and has gunked it up. I'll check it out more tomorrow. As for water coming out the square hole... there are 2 of them side by side on the back, behind the pee tube. Do you know what these are? if they are exhaust ports or something, water coming out of one doesn't sound good.

I checked out the linkage (and yes everything was previously lubed) and it is barely moving the butterflies. And when I go that "extra inch" of travel the lever is way down in front of the tach connector. Well I need longer cables anyway... so until I get them I'll disconnect the cable and rev it at the motor to see if that's the problem.

Now your carb problem... if gas is spitting out that jet, the needle is not seating properly and allowing fuel to continue pumping into the carb. One of mine looked fine, but still wasn't seating. After the rebuild it seated and worked perfectly. It could also be that the float is not floating and pushing the needle closed. Definitely do the rebuild, and while the cover is off pour some fuel in the bowl and make sure the float if floating. I've read the alcohol in fuel now can detgrade the floats. If you can, stay away from gas with alcohol. If I had the money I would have just replaced my floats, but I'm on a tight budget and don't want to dump more into this until I'm sure it's going to run right

Yeah I asked about the water... none comes out of mine there until the motor is running.

Ah isn't boating fun? Wait... I haven't had it out yet, so I wouldn't know! lol

 

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

This is the carb kit I used. It's the same for your year.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERC...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item27b7eff381

One guy had them for $19.20 w/shipping, but he doesn't have any more. This is still cheaper than anywhere else I've found... $22.95

 

[o'hill]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Nope, the pee tube is still hooked up. I have a feeling a spider built it's home in there and has gunked it up. I'll check it out more tomorrow. As for water coming out the square hole... there are 2 of them side by side on the back, behind the pee tube. Do you know what these are? if they are exhaust ports or something, water coming out of one doesn't sound good.

I checked out the linkage (and yes everything was previously lubed) and it is barely moving the butterflies. And when I go that "extra inch" of travel the lever is way down in front of the tach connector. Well I need longer cables anyway... so until I get them I'll disconnect the cable and rev it at the motor to see if that's the problem.

Now your carb problem... if gas is spitting out that jet, the needle is not seating properly and allowing fuel to continue pumping into the carb. One of mine looked fine, but still wasn't seating. After the rebuild it seated and worked perfectly. It could also be that the float is not floating and pushing the needle closed. Definitely do the rebuild, and while the cover is off pour some fuel in the bowl and make sure the float if floating. I've read the alcohol in fuel now can detgrade the floats. If you can, stay away from gas with alcohol. If I had the money I would have just replaced my floats, but I'm on a tight budget and don't want to dump more into this until I'm sure it's going to run right

Yeah I asked about the water... none comes out of mine there until the motor is running.

Ah isn't boating fun? Wait... I haven't had it out yet, so I wouldn't know! lol

Not sure what the square holes are for? I know the holes you're talking about and was wondering the same thing. The exhaust tube runs all the way down to the lower unit and exhausts there. Unless your water hose from faucet is turned on high and filling up the center section and coming out there faster then it can process the water??? just guessing.

When my shift lever is into all the way wide open throttle it is past 90 degrees from neutral. On down about an inch past the tac connector. Not sure if that's the way it's supposed to be but that's when it opens the butterflys all the way.

_____________________________________________________________


I just noticed the small tiny black hose that runs across the top of the carb is cracked on the other end from the bowl. Sucking air there too I guess. I'm going to replace that tomorrow and see what happens. It's straight across from the spitting jet. May be sucking air and blowing fuel out the jet??? Just trying all things before I order kits. I hate waiting on parts as bad as I hate buying them. How much were your kits? Did kits for all 3 carbs come in one "kit"? Float was floating and I shook it to see if it has any fuel in it and no. The float looks new which I know don't mean anything since there's plenty of stuff around here that looks new that's actually broken. Hard to find ethanol free gas here. One store sold it and quit carrying it. I talked with the bulk plant guy and he said that was the last place around here that carried it. I guess they have to pay more for it?

Once I get this motor finished I'm gonna start cruising craigs list and checking the papers and roadside distractions for a boat like yours.

 

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

I suppose that's a possibility about the water filling up the center. I don't think it was coming out there until the pee slowed to a trickle though. I'm 90% sure a spider built a big thig web inside the unit though, judging from what I pulled out of those upper slots by the prop.

That sounds like where my shift lever ends up too, but it still only opens the butterflies maybe 1/4 of the way, if that. When I disconnect the cable and open them by hand, I'll know if that's the rpm problem for sure.

One of those small hoses was cracked on mine too. I just did a temp repair with electrical wire shrink tube. And I forgot to hook one up after the rebuild, but the needle still closed off the fuel flow and no gas spit out the jet, so I'm still leaning towards your needle not seating properly. On the original seats it appears they have a rubber seal. The new ones do not. I'm guessing alchohol is again the culprit and deteriorating the orginal rubber seat. I was also told when I replaced my fuel lines to make sure I got "low permeation" lines because of the alcohol otherwise they would deteriorate again and muck things up. Ahhh isn't it great how they just decide to change things and not warn people of the possible problems?

I have seen quiet a few boats like mine on craig's list ranging anywhere from $400 - $ 8000, so they are out there. The majority of them I've seen are inboards though.

 

[o'hill]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

I suppose that's a possibility about the water filling up the center. I don't think it was coming out there until the pee slowed to a trickle though. I'm 90% sure a spider built a big thig web inside the unit though, judging from what I pulled out of those upper slots by the prop.

That sounds like where my shift lever ends up too, but it still only opens the butterflies maybe 1/4 of the way, if that. When I disconnect the cable and open them by hand, I'll know if that's the rpm problem for sure.

One of those small hoses was cracked on mine too. I just did a temp repair with electrical wire shrink tube. And I forgot to hook one up after the rebuild, but the needle still closed off the fuel flow and no gas spit out the jet, so I'm still leaning towards your needle not seating properly. On the original seats it appears they have a rubber seal. The new ones do not. I'm guessing alchohol is again the culprit and deteriorating the orginal rubber seat. I was also told when I replaced my fuel lines to make sure I got "low permeation" lines because of the alcohol otherwise they would deteriorate again and muck things up. Ahhh isn't it great how they just decide to change things and not warn people of the possible problems?

I have seen quiet a few boats like mine on craig's list ranging anywhere from $400 - $ 8000, so they are out there. The majority of them I've seen are inboards though.

Well it's all open down there in the housing. the water pump picks up water from in the housing and it runs up a tube through the center section housing and carries it to the top water jacket and then pees out. So could be clogged where the water goes into the water pump. If you could put air pressure or water pressure from the top down it should clean it out somewhat. Or you may have to drop the lower unit and clean all that out and then open the water pump and see how that looks and since that's kinda a hassle you probably would want to go ahead and put a water pump kit in since you'd be in there already. My impeller and stuff didn't look bad to me, it was all still good rubber with no groves or wear on the stainless steel insert, but I went ahead and put the new one in anyway. If you are trying to keep your spending down and if you open yours up and the impeller edges don't look good I could send you all the parts I took out and you could put in and see if it'll pump.all the gaskets and o-rings looked good as well.Just a thought since all these parts are no good to me. I think somebody had just put an impeller in this one. I'm almost certain I really didn't need this kit I put in, but had it open and just put it in. You will probably want to buy a new one, but it's an option if you want it.

This motor has what looks like all new fuel line on the carbs and fuel pump already, except the small hoses I was talking about. Who knows what kind they used??? Once I get this fuel problem fixed I may buy new spark plugs also, probably nothing wrong with these, but if I do you are welcome to these old plugs too if you want them. I know you are just trying to get it going at this point and if any of these spare parts will help you are welcome to them.

_______________

ok I have a question, on top of the float there is a small spring and when the bowl fills up that spring touches the bottom flat needle arm which pushed anther arm up and closed the needle. So from open to close on the needle is about 1/16" tops. Is there anything that's supposed to go on top of the spring in the float? or does the spring just touch up to the needle arm? Just making sure I haven't let anything slip through my fingers.

About your boat, I'll be looking for one. Another option is if I could find about a 16 or 18" heavy duty aluminum center console boat so I could go up the MS river and through the ditches up there over into Eagle Lake. But a speed boat like yours would be alot more fun.

rob

 

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Hey, thanks! I will take those parts if you want to send them. Do you have a paypal account? I'll pay the s&h if you want to send them. Send me a private message and I'll give you my address. Ugh. I was hoping not to have to pull the lower unit just yet but it looks like I'm gonna have to if it doesn't pee when I go out there today.

My plugs all looked good except for #2, which was fouled with carbon. I hope that isn't something bad. I'll just buy a new set once I get it working but thanks for offering me yours.

Yes, the spring just pushes up on the flat tab to seat the needle. You haven't lost anything. Also where did you find tube to replace those small ones? Crowley marine sells it by 20' roll for $35!! WTF!? I only need 3 inches! I have some tubing for landscape misting that will fit but I doubt it would stand up to the fuel/alcohol so I don't want to use it.

There is an Eagle Lake 5 miles north of me in Michigan... I don't think this is the same Eagle Lake?

 

[o'hill]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Hey, thanks! I will take those parts if you want to send them. Do you have a paypal account? I'll pay the s&h if you want to send them. Send me a private message and I'll give you my address. Ugh. I was hoping not to have to pull the lower unit just yet but it looks like I'm gonna have to if it doesn't pee when I go out there today.

My plugs all looked good except for #2, which was fouled with carbon. I hope that isn't something bad. I'll just buy a new set once I get it working but thanks for offering me yours.

Yes, the spring just pushes up on the flat tab to seat the needle. You haven't lost anything. Also where did you find tube to replace those small ones? Crowley marine sells it by 20' roll for $35!! WTF!? I only need 3 inches! I have some tubing for landscape misting that will fit but I doubt it would stand up to the fuel/alcohol so I don't want to use it.

There is an Eagle Lake 5 miles north of me in Michigan... I don't think this is the same Eagle Lake?

No...not the same... This eagle lake is on the MS, used to be the MS river till it changed courses a million years ago. Way down south between MS and LA near Vicksburg.

I'm gonna try regular old chainsaw / string trimmer fuel line on the small hose. They sell a variety pack at Lowes for $3.27 (my wife just walked in with it). comes with two pieces: 1/16" ID x 1/8" OD x 1' and 3/32" ID x 3/16" OD x 1'. The small is way too small but the other one looks about right? Well see. I pretty much know this is not going to fix it, since I taped the hose a minute ago and still doing it. I needed the hose anyway, since the other is cracked.

I'll get with you on the address in a little bit, gotta grind some fresh beans and then figure out this whole private message thing. I'll try the hose now too. Then you can get me lined out on where to order the carb kits. Did 3 kits come in a "kit" ?

rob

 

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Oh, sorry... meant to answer that about the kits. No. 1 kit=1 carb but they combine shipping. So if you order 3 from here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERC...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item27b7eff381
it'll caost $19.95 each plus $7 shipping for $66.85 total. That is the cheapest I can find them and he only has 5 available so you might want to order them soon.

Great info on the fuel tube! Thanks!

 

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

PS, be careful of cheaper "kits"! some of them do not include all the linkage/needle/seat etc!

 

[swamp-fox]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Find a Mercury dealer and get a mercury carb kit. I just got three that were not and they didn't work. The only thing I always change is that needle that you were asking about earlier that the float hits. (and the gaskets) I didn't realize but the seat that the needle goes in was to long and it shut gas off to early. An no carb kits come in singles so you will need three. Mercury is not that much more expensive if any.

No do not use the landscape tubing!! I'm sure it will melt right away. I used the hoses from a small engine repair kit like o'hill said. Worked perfect.

 

[o'hill]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Ok the string trimmer/small engine line worked perfect (the larger size Is 3/32" ID) and fit just right. I took hemostats with duct tape wrapped around the teeth to reach in there to get it on. One (1) foot is just the right amount to do all 3 carbs. Fits tight..right size. So you may be able to find string trimmer fuel hose in this size somewhere by the foot for a dollar or so, you really don't need the variety pack, just I didn't know the correct size.... now I do. If someone is looking at this from a metric country it is D.I. 2.4mm x D.E. 4.8mm x LONG 30 cm. Most people can probably get the correct hose from a boat shop if they like to stay with oem, but here nearest boat shop is about $50 in gasoline away. ( I like my old land rover, but if things don't change with gas prices it's gonna have to go into dry dock). Anyway, I guess it's my lucky day but the fuel line fixed the spitting problem! I'm surprised for sure! I wasn't expecting it to. It stopped spitting gas from the jet totally! BUT, I do have a small leak around the gasket. SO, I'm still looking at gaskets and might as well say "kits". It goes from A gasket to A kit to 3 kits when all I really need is a nickel gasket. Don't think I can make one this small and I have the thickness to deal with which I'm sure has to be right on the money to not move the needle up the thickness of the gasket. Since the needle only moves about 1/16" a thicker gasket will surely throw it off. I think...?

 

[o'hill]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Find a Mercury dealer and get a mercury carb kit. I just got three that were not and they didn't work. The only thing I always change is that needle that you were asking about earlier that the float hits. (and the gaskets) I didn't realize but the seat that the needle goes in was to long and it shut gas off to early. An no carb kits come in singles so you will need three. Mercury is not that much more expensive if any.

No do not use the landscape tubing!! I'm sure it will melt right away. I used the hoses from a small engine repair kit like o'hill said. Worked perfect.

Thanks for the heads up... and cool pic. Where can I get a large copy of that?
rob

 

[o'hill]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

I wonder IF I could take the top back off of the float bowl and dry it all out good and let the cap and gasket dry and then carefully take the gasket out and lightly smear a small amount of blue permatex on it that I have here and put it back together and let it sit overnight to fix the leaking gasket problem? I just can't pay $60 or more for 3 carb kits when right now I just need a gasket.
After I've actually used this motor a few times and see that it's going to be a good motor then I won't be so tight with spending money on it. But for now I'm just trying to get it in the water....upstream so if it breaks I can float back down to the ramp. haha!
thanks

 

[swamp-fox]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

I found that pic on the internet one day being bored, so I saved it. Have no idea where I got it from. I did see a add on ebay kind of like this but it was pulling a elephant on skies.

If all you need is one gasket then just buy that. Is just one leeking or all three? Here on iboats you can buy just the gasket kits, for about $6. Ebay or any other marine online places. If that is all you are going to change then the off brand is fine. I don't know about the permatex.

 

[o'hill]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

I found that pic on the internet one day being bored, so I saved it. Have no idea where I got it from. I did see a add on ebay kind of like this but it was pulling a elephant on skies.

If all you need is one gasket then just buy that. Is just one leeking or all three? Here on iboats you can buy just the gasket kits, for about $6. Ebay or any other marine online places. If that is all you are going to change then the off brand is fine. I don't know about the permatex.

Thanks! I didn't know that....I had the option to buy the gaskets only.
Thanks again and I was going to use the pic to convince my wife about how good these motors are and how it's really my duty to spend money on it to keep it running. hehe!
rob

 

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

Find a Mercury dealer and get a mercury carb kit. I just got three that were not and they didn't work. The only thing I always change is that needle that you were asking about earlier that the float hits. (and the gaskets) I didn't realize but the seat that the needle goes in was to long and it shut gas off to early. An no carb kits come in singles so you will need three. Mercury is not that much more expensive if any.

No do not use the landscape tubing!! I'm sure it will melt right away. I used the hoses from a small engine repair kit like o'hill said. Worked perfect.

The carb kits I pointed to were sealed Mercury Quicksilver kits. I saw your post about aftermarket kits and wouldn't buy anything but oem merc parts. Thanks for the heads up though! And yeah, that's what I figured about the landscape tubing

 

[SleekWolf]

Re: 1977 merc 1150 water pump question

......BUT, I do have a small leak around the gasket. SO, I'm still looking at gaskets and might as well say "kits". It goes from A gasket to A kit to 3 kits when all I really need is a nickel gasket. Don't think I can make one this small and I have the thickness to deal with which I'm sure has to be right on the money to not move the needle up the thickness of the gasket. Since the needle only moves about 1/16" a thicker gasket will surely throw it off. I think...?

I feel you're pain. They do make gasket-only kits that are "relatively cheap". But I'm sure if you could buy the single gasket they would soak you for about $7 HOWEVER...I'm not sure about the gasket kits, but the carb kits cover 2 variations of the cabs and have 2 bowl gaskets per kit. The difference is one has an extra loop on the edge which can easily be trimmed off or just left sticking out... HEY! LIGHT BULB! duh, I have these leftover from my kits. Send me your address and I will send them to you if I don't need them when I replace the floats? But yeah, I think a different thickness might throw it off when working with such small movements.

UPDATE
OK, Crowley Marine has gasket kits for $5.07. Number 33 on the parts list.
http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/463_12.cfm