1977 SeaRay 20 foot Cuddy

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
Okay, I thought I'd join this because there seems to be a huge source of information and resources on here. We picked up this bought about a 4 in a half hour drive that turned into a 14 hour drive round trip. It was dodging hail storms, tornado warnings, and a downfall of rain that you couldn't see through. Then pulling a boat with a trailer that you knew nothing about. It was crazy. Lets say, we had a tire blow out after we replaced a dry rotted tire, then the wheel fender weld broke off the passenger side of the trailer during the storm, and a tail light flew off the trailer that was bolted down to the metal bar it was on. Well the tail light was bolted down but the 3 foot piece of metal it was on was not. The brakes on the dual axle trailer didn't work as well. (So far that was all about the trailer).

Just a little history up there. I'm not a carpenter, boat builder , or anything. At most I'm a hobbits at tinkering with classic car here and there, but I'm not afraid to learn.

The boat itself had two soft spots in the boat and the guy we bought it from said, "just dig out the soft spots and through another layer of plywood on top". That just didn't set easy with me. I already thought if I was going to replace the flooring I want to do from rear to the cuddy of the boat. So Saturday morning we started.

I wasn't sure what to use so I brought out a grinding wheel, jig saw, hand saw, drill, screwdrivers, and a crowbar. I think I used the crowbar the most and my hands feel it too.

OMG foam ! I think I have foam splinters in me?

My questions will be right off the bat, there is real hard rock like glue or something that was underneath the stringers running aft to forward of the boat. #1 Whats the best way to get this off with out hurting the hull? (I'll add pics soon).
#2 There didn't seem to really be any stingers besides in front of the gas tank and behind, even these seemed super thin and mostly just fiberglass left. #3 How many stingers should I have and should I run them further up the sides as well, like outside of the main forward to aft stringers?
#4 What material should I use for the stingers?
#5 I cant find a diagram of any build sheet. Searay is not helpful in this when I called since it is a 77, any suggestions?
$6 I'm worried about cutting to close into the deck where it meets the hull on the port and starboard sides with the tools I have. Any suggestions because there's still about a 4 inch lip left on each side.

This is just the beginning. After work I should be able to add some pictures. Wow this is a huge project, but the engine worked and ran, the transom looked fine no weak spots so far, the hull besides some scratches seems fine as well.

Thanks for any help guidance.
 

produceguy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Messages
1,243
You have a right to be grumpy after that trip. Glad u got her home.
Welcome to the site,it truly is the best boat forum out their.
Sounds like your already pretty deep in the rehab but you will definitely need to drill test that transom and motor mounts.
The glue you speak of sounds like fiberglass resin. That will need to be grinder out.
Your pics will really help the guys,help you.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Welcome aboard, you'll get a lot of help here. You need to check out some of the other iboater's projects like Friscoboater -1995-sea-ray-220-signature-deck-and-stringer-restoration.He goes thru it and has video's that help explain a lot.

There's also this Okie called WoodOnGlass who is becoming extremely helpful with his knowledge. There are links to helpful info at the sticky section at top of restoration forums page.

I myself am trying to get to the stage of bedding stringers, but like we say no pictures didn't happen. So please browse iboats and post photos also of your boat.. We like boat porn. You may need to open a photobucket account to post photo. The how to is in one of the useful links.
 

Mark72233

Ensign
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
Nope. No picture. You might see it on your machine but we cant. Try again. :joyous:
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
It is work probably, Ill updated from hope this evening with pictures.Thanks for letting me know.
 

Mark72233

Ensign
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
Are you using Photobucket. That is what most of us use. Once you have used it a couple of times it's easy to use. Once the pics are loaded in your library click on a picture and it will take you to another page where it is showing only one of your pictures. It will have navigation arrows left and right of the picture so you can scroll through your pics until you find the one you want. To the right there will be some boxes. Click the bottom one once, it should briefly high light in yellow and say copied. Go back over to iboats and either right click and paste or just ctrl V to paste. It will show up as computer code letters and numbers but when you post they will show up as pics.
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
No Title
 

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Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
1,780
Your phots are visible and you have a good mess on your hands. But, with guidance, from those more knowledgable than I am, you will get her ship shape again.
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
No Title

Here is some more work last evening after work. I did like you guys said, grind the edges of the left over fiberglass and that think glue putty looking stuff along the bottom. I should of wore a mask...(after thought)
 

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Mark72233

Ensign
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
That's the manufacturers version of what we call Peanut Butter or PB the thicken resin. I don't know what they use at the boat manufacturers but yours looks the same as what I had in my boat and that stuff was hard as a rock and would eat saw blades like crazy when I was using the sawzall to cut the stringers and bulkheads from the deck. Please wear a mask, that stuff is nasty and gets into the eyes and lungs and does your body no good. On this site they preach using the proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and for good reason. Keep up the good work and be safe.
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
That's the manufacturers version of what we call Peanut Butter or PB the thicken resin. I don't know what they use at the boat manufacturers but yours looks the same as what I had in my boat and that stuff was hard as a rock and would eat saw blades like crazy when I was using the sawzall to cut the stringers and bulkheads from the deck. Please wear a mask, that stuff is nasty and gets into the eyes and lungs and does your body no good. On this site they preach using the proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and for good reason. Keep up the good work and be safe.


Thanks I will...I just jumped in and didn't think about it. I will now, soar throat big time.
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
Nope. No picture. You might see it on your machine but we cant. Try again. :joyous:


I have [pics up now and thanks for the advice. Most of it was my work computer didn't want me to go to photobucket, but now it is all worked out.
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
You have a right to be grumpy after that trip. Glad u got her home.
Welcome to the site,it truly is the best boat forum out their.
Sounds like your already pretty deep in the rehab but you will definitely need to drill test that transom and motor mounts.
The glue you speak of sounds like fiberglass resin. That will need to be grinder out.
Your pics will really help the guys,help you.

I'm really not a Grumpie person and yes I know it is spelled wrong, its a name my girls gave to me when young because I'm usually not unhappy and that's how they spelled it.

You said Drill test the transom? Like straight through the hull or down into through the top? (this scares me)
 

Grumpie

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 17, 2015
Messages
39
Welcome aboard, you'll get a lot of help here. You need to check out some of the other iboater's projects like Friscoboater -1995-sea-ray-220-signature-deck-and-stringer-restoration.He goes thru it and has video's that help explain a lot.

There's also this Okie called WoodOnGlass who is becoming extremely helpful with his knowledge. There are links to helpful info at the sticky section at top of restoration forums page.

I myself am trying to get to the stage of bedding stringers, but like we say no pictures didn't happen. So please browse iboats and post photos also of your boat.. We like boat porn. You may need to open a photobucket account to post photo. The how to is in one of the useful links.


Thanks for the info,and the greeting just even getting to the stringers part, I have so many questions..
 

Mark72233

Ensign
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Messages
926
Grump, don't drill from the out side, only from the inside. Use a good sized drill bit maybe 3/8 or so. Your transom should be about 2 Inches to 2 1/2 inches thick. wrap some tape around the bit exposing about 3/4 of an inch. Drilling from the inside of the boat into your transom in several key locations usually down low. If you have in inboard/outboard (IO) then drill a few around the lower side of the keyhole. You are only wanting to take wood core samples from about 3/4 to 1 inch into the wood, you don't want to over drill through it. Put a clean piece of white paper or something to catch the saw dust or what ever comes out. Sort past the fiberglass and look at the wood. loose sawdust Light colored wood (Good), dark mushy wet (Bad). There really isn't a middle ground on that. If the wood looks good you can fill the holes back in with PB or something like 3M 4200 or 5200. You do the bulkheads and stringers the same way.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Welcome Grump ! Quite the project there .. Make sure you have the hull supported well from underneath before ya start tearing to much structure out . It can and will flex out of shape . You don,t want that . Like the others have said proper PPE is a must . The fiberglass dust from grinding is some really nasty stuff for your lungs .. The little particulate masks just will not cut it . At the least a half faced respirator with the proper filters will do with some safety glasses .. More expensive but well worth the money are your full face respirators . I finally spent the money on one and it,s the best money I ever spent ... :painkiller:
Good luck and let us know how we can help . If we can't help we can at least cheer ya on ! :cheer2:
 
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