1977 Sylvan Sea Monster Side Console Rebuild

kcassells

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Try a varibit and ream them out.Getting that water out to bilge and air in is a GOOD thing. Trapped water kils the foam and metals. JMHO.
 

oldrem

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Try a varibit and ream them out.Getting that water out to bilge and air in is a GOOD thing. Trapped water kils the foam and metals. JMHO.

Problem is, there aren't any holes to ream. Thinking I could drill some near the bottom just above the rib flange.
 

oldrem

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Watermann , I've read your sticky on rivets. I do plan on adding stringer braces in 6 locations. Do you have a recommended source for the rivets? I do have bucking tools for solids and will be picking up a 1/4" pneumatic riveter. Want the option of the 1/4 if necessary down the road, but only planning on using 1/8 and 3/16 now.
 

oldrem

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With the dampness today, 47 is feeling more like 37 out there. The old green paint under the carpet that was on the gunnels was quite crumbly and much was coming off with a putty knife, so I decided to start sanding with a palm sander using 3M 120 grit Sandblaster paper. I'm finding a lot of loose and missing rivets. I also knew there were a couple spots with some spider cracks where something had been previously attached.

At this point I'm thinking of removing all the rivets, take the gunnels apart, fix the metal and fill unwanted holes with some Quiksteel Aluminum Reinforced Epoxy Putty, flatten out the dings and reassemble with all new rivets. A little more work, but I think I'll be happier with the finished product once it's primed and painted. It will also give me better access to removing the old adhesive that's up under the gunnels.

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oldrem

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Went ahead and removed the port side gunnel. What I thought were 1/8" were all 5/32" holes - is that normal, or are they 5/32" rivets?
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A PO had replaced the transom which I am replacing. I could see they just removed a few rivets and bent the end of the gunnel up to do it then pounded it back down. It was rippled and did look a bit shabby, but figured I might as well do the same to save time and work.
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Now that I'm taking it apart to do a proper job, I did a little sheet metal work then finished sanding it all uniform. There are a few minor gouges I will probably fill before prime and paint, but looks a lot better that when I bought it.
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Watermann

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Closed end blinds aren't needed and in fact could be a poor choice since water can collect inside them if the rivets are situated vertically. The only location i can see using closed end blinds are on the transom and even then I would add 5200 to the center when the mandrel popped.

For replacing the 5/32 with 3/16, I'm not sure how much head room there is under the trim pieces that cover this row of blinds, for that reason and because I didn't want to drill out 100+ holes, I went back with 5/32 but i did add some extras. Otherwise if the head on a 3/16 blind isn't too much then sure use them, they are stronger.
 

oldrem

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Doesn't look like I worked on it for 8 hours today, but my body knows. Got the starboard gunnel disassembled, the top straighten and sanded. Removed a bunch of no longer used rivets in the ribs, masked off the ends of all the ribs with gorilla tape so they wouldn't get plugged up with old adhesive and gunk.

Although the temp made it up to 55 briefly, it felt colder due to a light breeze coming off Lake Michigan (I'm less than a block away), It was definitely not a good day to even attempt using the pressure washer, so I turned my attention to removing deteriorated paint from the inside gunnel sections. A few months ago I picked up two biodegradable paint strippers to try, so used a different one on each piece. Although neither completely removed all the paint in one pass, the clear winner was Citristrip. The Ready Strip I tried was pretty useless, taking 4 times as long to get 90% of the results. I'm hoping I at least have both sections to the point where I can sand smooth and prime before paint.
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Interesting experiment with the Citristrip. I wiped some excess from the brush onto a small section of the adhesive is the hull. Thirty minutes later in was bubbling nicely, so I scraped it off with a putty knife. I then put some on half of a larger section where the adhesive was still fairly heavy and uniform across the section. An hour later I went back and scraper it off. Most of the adhesive was gone. This stuff was 2/3 the price of Kleen Strip and think I may see what happens after a second application in that area before I open the can.
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oldrem

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I wasn't happy with the inner gunnel panels, so picked up a quart of Kleen Strip Premium Stripper to try. I'm pleased to say I have a new favorite. In less than an hour, they went from this:
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I ordered 30 ft of 2x2x1/8 aluminum angle today from Pottinger Steel Works in Racine. Pricing from the warehouse was less than half what the box stores sell it for. My plan was to drive up there to pick it up some morning before work, but the sales rep contacted me and said there truck would be in my area tomorrow and they'd be glad to deliver it at no charge. Sure can't beat that kind of service.
 

oldrem

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All kinds of goodies arrive this week - aluminum, rivets, Clecos etc - just need to find more time and energy to work on it. Back to low 50's Sunday, so will just have to dress appropriately and try to crank a bit.

Materials.jpg
 

oldrem

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When I got home from work at 2:30 the temp was only 54 F so I decided I was not going to be playing with the pressure washer and would have to use a broad knife to scrape the glue. First I taped some newspapers to catch the softened adhesive and applied a healthy coat of Citristrip to the port side.
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While that stripper was working, I moved to the inner starboard transom and brushed a coat of Kleen Strip to the paint. After stripping 2x, I went at it with a cup brush to get rid of the rest.
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By then the adhesive was bubbled and ready for scraping. After scraping I followed up with the cup brush to remove what little was left.
Tear out Day11d.jpg I'm hoping they're wrong , but tomorrows prediction now calls for 40's and rain half the day. At least I have the car port to work in, but really want to at least finish up with a good pressure wash.
 

Watermann

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I wonder what SC was thinking when they put so much of that adhesive on there, I guess they thought nobody would ever need or want to remove it that carpet.

Looks like a solid plan to get that gunk off there and yeah you'll want to wash it down good for sure.
 

oldrem

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Wasn't SC's fault, it was a PO. I've discovered a couple of different colored paints, the decking and carpet had been redone some time ago and even found 1985 scratched into the paint under the carpet on the gunnel. Also found evidence of an electrical fire at some point under the gunnels.
Previous rebuild.jpg
 

oldrem

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Yep - 44 F, breezy and raining. Taped newspapers on the starboard side and laid a good thick layer of Citristrip on everything. Good thing about that stuff is that you can leave it on for hours and it's still good. Let it sit on one section yesterday for 5 hours and it was the same as where it was on for only 1 hour. As cold as it is today I would imagine it will work a little slower, so will give it a couple hours to do its thing before I start scraping. If it was nicer out I could be changing the drive belt on the John Deer, but will have to wait for better weather.
 

kcassells

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Looking good Rem inspite of the weather. Hitting 82 here today with rain off/on. Did a little diddlin on the boat. Now I need to get the yard gardens back on board. Got to plant some veges yesterday in the rain.
 

oldrem

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Looking good Rem inspite of the weather. Hitting 82 here today with rain off/on. Did a little diddlin on the boat. Now I need to get the yard gardens back on board. Got to plant some veges yesterday in the rain.

I'm jealous of being able to have a garden. I had big ones at my last 2 houses, but living in the woods now not many veggies will grow. Other than flowers, all we have are rhubarb and black raspberries that survive. We tried for years, but just don't get enough sunlight.
 

kcassells

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Sounds like time for a raised bed small hot house. They work in Alaska.
 
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