1978 Johnson 35 HP Safety Switch

[oldboat1]

Initial setting of the idle mix is meant to get the motor started. After warm up, adjust the needle leaner (clockwise) until the motor stalls or lean sneezes, then back it out 1/4 turn. Adjustments are in 1/8 turn increments, and expect rpms to increase when setting leaner (throttle down and continue setting the mix). As part of setting the mix, insure the motor with start at low to mid idle, that you can put it in gear at the idle setting, and that the engine with not stall on throttle up. Adjust the mix slightly richer if there are starting, shifting or throttle-up issues. Target idle would be 650-700 rpms, warmed up and in gear.

 

[JoeFromAkron]

Initial setting of the idle mix is meant to get the motor started. After warm up, adjust the needle leaner (clockwise) until the motor stalls or lean sneezes, then back it out 1/4 turn. Adjustments are in 1/8 turn increments, and expect rpms to increase when setting leaner (throttle down and continue setting the mix). As part of setting the mix, insure the motor with start at low to mid idle, that you can put it in gear at the idle setting, and that the engine with not stall on throttle up. Adjust the mix slightly richer if there are starting, shifting or throttle-up issues. Target idle would be 650-700 rpms, warmed up and in gear.

I did all that, at least as much as I could on the ear muffs in the driveway. It starts with the throttle all the way down.A tiny Tach is on my toy list so I have no idea what the RPM actually is. I will have to test on the water for shifting of course.

So then it wouldn't be strange for me to have to the needle only 3/4 (or so) out? My only similar experience is on my 56' 15 hp evinrude. That one didn't care where the needles were set as long as it was close to the initial settings so I don't really know what to expect.

 

[oldboat1]

can do without a tach (adjust by sound), but has to be in the water for back pressure. Lake is best, but deep in a barrel will work for initial adjustment. 3/4 inch out wouldn't be remarkable. Motors vary. But the initial setting is just to get it running so you can tune it -- not much bearing on final setting.

[edit. Unless in the lake, testing throttle-up means just bumping it briefly to make sure it doesn't stall. Idle or fast idle is all you need until back out on the lake.]

 

[JoeFromAkron]

can do without a tach (adjust by sound), but has to be in the water for back pressure. Lake is best, but deep in a barrel will work for initial adjustment. 3/4 inch out wouldn't be remarkable. Motors vary. But the initial setting is just to get it running so you can tune it -- not much bearing on final setting.

[edit. Unless in the lake, testing throttle-up means just bumping it briefly to make sure it doesn't stall. Idle or fast idle is all you need until back out on the lake.]

Well then at this point I am wondering if there ever was a carb issue at all...... I'm thinking since it was just lightly flooding that I just had the needle way to far out. I'm going to get it out one way or another this weekend and find out. Between the now super clean carb and new fuel pump I don't think there is much else to go wrong.

 

[oldboat1]

Might have it solved. Hope it works better -- and that you find some fish.

 

[JoeFromAkron]

Going to try trolling for some mukie this weekend. That was one of the reasons I got it. My old 15hp was obnoxiously loud trolling.

 

[JoeFromAkron]

I got it out last night. Starts and runs fine. Ran it for a while at lowest speed and it did not flood out, throttled up from slowest speed fine (that's when it would bog down and stall occasionally), full throttle was fine. When I took the cover off there was still a small amount of fuel in the carb that leaked out of the air box when I tilted the motor up. If i understand correctly, there should never be enough fuel in the carb throat to actually leak out, right? It's only a tiny amount, like 3 drops, but if it does that that means it's still slightly flooding, right?

 

[gm280]

I haven't followed along much, but most carbs when tilted up will leak a little because the level in the fuel bowl will leak out. I wouldn't worry about it being just a little amount. But that is just my opinion.

 

[JoeFromAkron]

I haven't followed along much, but most carbs when tilted up will leak a little because the level in the fuel bowl will leak out. I wouldn't worry about it being just a little amount. But that is just my opinion.

If that is the case, it might be just right.

 

[oldboat1]

Agree with gm280 -- think it's normal.

 

[JoeFromAkron]

Well I had it out 3 of the past 4 days. I trolled with it for about 6 hours and it was fine. I think it's good to go carb wise. Now if I can just get the choke to do it's thing and wire the safety switch correctly maybe I can fix what I started this post about.....

I checked the voltage with a multimeter and the choke solenoid is getting 12v when I push the key in but wont engage. Funny thing is that if I directly connect it to the battery with a jumper wire it works like it should. Any thoughts on that becasue I am truly stumped on that one?

 

[oldboat1]

jumping just the positive, or both pos and neg? Thinking maybe it's a grounding issue with the solenoid(?)

 

[JoeFromAkron]

Just the positive. I made a jumper cable with some 10ga wire and alligator clips. One end to the positive post on the battery and the other to the terminal on the solenoid. Then it works fine. Disconnect the jumper, connect the multimeter (to battery neg post and terminal on solenoid), push in the key and it gets 12v but does nothing. That is why I'm confused. It makes no sense to me.

 

[oldboat1]

Yeah, little strange. But sounds like you need to replace the battery cable, maybe with heavier gauge. Might as well do the ground cable as well.

 

[JoeFromAkron]

I have some larger battery cables so I can try that. What's your thinking as to why a heavier gauge cable might make a difference. I not being a smart a** but just wondering.

 

[oldboat1]

[edit.] Large gauge means less resistance, but think that is probably not the issue with your choke solenoid (internal corrosion could be an issue). Have you run a jumper from the key switch post to the choke solenoid?

 

[JoeFromAkron]

[edit.] Large gauge means less resistance, but think that is probably not the issue with your choke solenoid (internal corrosion could be an issue). Have you run a jumper from the key switch post to the choke solenoid?

I have not. I was figuring that because the solenoid reads 12v when I push the key in that the ignition is working right? Also the ignition switch is a new OEM Evinrude switch. The one that came with it had it's own choke button. Best as I can figure I think the guy I got this motor from gave me the wrong wiring harness. The colors match an older model and mine should have never had a choke button . I don't care because it works but worth mentioning I guess. I am hesitant to just get a new solenoid because 1- It works when jumped and maybe I'm just overlooking something very obvious 2. The ones I found were surprisingly expensive. The motor starts without it, I just have to crank it for 5 seconds instead of 1 second and I have the manual choke. I'm kinda obsessive and want it to work right though.

 

[oldboat1]

Yeah, think a little obsession is a good thing. I would want it to work too.

I agree that seeing 12 volts on the ground side (key switch activated) should indicate the solenoid is functional. If it were mine, though, I think would still jump from the key switch choke terminal to the solenoid.

If jumping from the battery to the solenoid gets results, as in your testing, I would think that the issue has to be the key switch or the connection between the switch and solenoid. You could also test resistance between the key switch choke terminal and the solenoid -- high resistance would indicate an issue with the wired connection.