1979 Grady Cabin

[ondarvr]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

That's sort of normal construction prior to complete molded liners that give a nice smooth interior.

Basla probably wouldn't be a good choice to cover the surface for the reasons BWT mentioned, very thin ply would be easier and cost less. The other option would be use a light weight filler and a very thin layer of glass over it, then you could either try to sand it to a smooth surface or leave some texture, whichever you like best.

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

The balsa is 3/8 inch thick, 1 inch strips, held together by fiberglass and are 2'x 4'. I believe that the epoxy is the best way to go. It appears that I only have to do the ceiling because the rest of it is pretty much laid glass that fairing could take care of. With the fiberglass side of the balsa outward then it should take away that "that sucked dry" condition. I have to get it and see what the best route may be. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks
LB

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin



Any ideas on how to make this unfinished cabin to a finished cabin. I got a better camera and will be posting at I go along. One idea I have is to use 3/8 inch balsa core, covered with fiberglass in areas that are very uneven and will take a lot of compount to fill. The worst part is the cabin ceiling. I also have system 3 fairing compound to fair the ceiling in and then I will fair the rough glass. I just want a finished cabin and not carpet lined.

Any suggestions would help.

LB

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin



Here are some more pictures.

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin



I am also going to try to pop out thos windows however they appear to be full of 5200. Going to cut first with a razor then will try to pry them out.

Any other suggestions?

LB

 

[ondarvr]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

Why do you think Balsa is a good idea?

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

I was thinking that the ceiling is too uneven so I was going to epoxy the wood side of the balsa to the raw glass. The balsa can be contoured and would offer some insulation to the cabin. The fiber glassed part of the balsa would be on the outside and filling it in would be minimal compared to fairing the whole interior.

I am open to any suggestion.

Thanks
LB

 

[ondarvr]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

Balsa doesn't leave a smooth or even surface, you will need to glass and fair it almost as much (maybe more) than what you have now.

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

How would you finish the cabin?

 

[BWT]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

My call would be to take some 1/4" strips of marine ply, epoxy them to the sides and ceiling as furring strips (thicker could be used depending on how un-even the glass surface is) and use these as tacking strips to secure larger size panels of ply (or solid wood strips). These furring strips do two things; for your application they allow a bit of a "shim" to help bridge some of the un-even-ness as well as provide something to screw the finished skin onto to give a smooth contour / finish..

IMO, I would ditch the balsa. I know it sounds like a good idea, but my experience tells me that you're gonna run into problems (and a lot of frustration working with this material.) I'm not saying don't do it, just do some testing before you start actually working with it on the boat )

Hope this helps!

~BWT

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

I appreciate the advise. It sounds like your idea would be easier too.

In reference to the balsa. I have read that this is used in boat building today. What application is it used? I am trying to learn this stuff.

Thanks
LB

 

[BWT]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

Typically in the construction of the hull and topsides. It's one type of material that is considered a "core" of a boat (some use plywood, others just go with solid glass). It's typically sandwiched between layers of fiberglass and fully saturated with resin. It's lightweight and when done properly gives a very high strength to weight ratio.

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

Great, thanks for the info.
LB

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

How would you go about this project? I also have some Mahogany that I could rip into strips and could line the cabin with it. Might look a whole lot better. Please advise.

LB

 

[chriscraft254]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

I would just build out the areas that are indented or not even. You can use almost any material for that because it is inside the cabin. The mahogany or marine ply would both be good.. Then you can fiberglass over the whole thing. Smooth it out with fairing compound to get a smooth finish, then coat with whatever top coat you prefer.

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

If I do the Mahogany then I would finish it with polyurethane. The wood look would be pretty attractive, I think.

 

[BWT]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

If you have enough mahogany, that's what I would definitely use! I'm doing a similar project and will take pics tomorrow. Had to lay furring strips, work around portlights, contours, etc. Very similar to your project Did mine in teak. If you do go with mahogany depending on what kind of appearance you're looking for, unstained maho will be brown-ish, if you're looking for that traditional 'red-ish' appearance you'll need to use a stain / filler, then finish with a varnish. Lots of choices.. I'll try and get some pics tomorrow of some of the different ways I've finishing this wood..

~BWT

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

Thanks. I do appreciate your help. I went on your site and saw some of your work and it is awesome. I learned from your youtube.

LB

 

[BWT]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin



Sorry it took so long to get back to this thread; had a rush glass job on a 55 so they could leave for the coast; as a result was not able to take any pics of the interior I've been talking about. But, the first pic is a sample that I did for this project (30 degree bevels on the edges and butted up to look like bead board paneling). Pic 2 kinda shows this a little better. As far as mahogany finishes, pic 3 and 4 I was using Sapele (ribbon stripe mahogany). Personally one of my fav's.. Pic 3 shows this with a "natural" finish. Since this was for an interior decoration I first gave it 2 coats of west system (207 clear) and final coats were with a water based satin finish (crystalac). Pic 4 is the same wood but finished more traditionally with a stain/filler and pettit varnish. It's a scrap piece and a little beat up but you can see what kind of a difference it makes...

What kind of mahogany do you have??

~BWT

 

[larry1592]

Re: 1979 Grady Cabin

Too bad you are not in South Florida. Your work is truly inspirational.

Have a question, I am ripping the Mahogany into 1/4 inch thick strips and am going to put a 1/4 inch gap about a 1/8 deep and fill it in with that teak systems caulking. The ceiling is 39 inches in length with a tapered width from 54.25 fore and 59.25 inches aft in the cabin. What width of strip would you use? In other words how far apart would you have the 1/4 inch caulking grooves?

I watched your video and saw how you patterned the teak in places. I also went on Teak Systems website and saw some of their work. I will practice on some hardboards first and then when perfected I will cut out the good stuff.

Thanks
LB