1979 Johnson 35 hp dog clutch

[Lugoa2000]

Hello I have a 1979 35 hp (35e79a).

It was jumping out of gear under load, at like 6-7mph. I took it apart and flipped the dog clutch around to see if forward would work fine. The forward gear looked decent but the forward dog clutch was definitely worn. The reverse side of the dog clutch looked perfect so that's why I reversed it. I took it out on the water again and now I can get it to like 12-15mph but it still wants to jump out of gear.

The first time I took it out, I disconnected the linkage and shifted by hand but still popping out. After flipping the dog clutch I didn't think to try to shift by hand again.

Question, so I'm sure I need atleast a new forward gear and dog clutch. But which dog clutch and gear? When I do a search for my year and 35hp Johnson I see two different dog clutches. One with 2 rounded "teeth" straight across from each other and one with 3 squared off "teeth" in a triangular pattern. It seems like the square off triangular pattern one would work better but I don't know if that's a newer and interchangable part or if I need to go with the same one that it currently has? Any help would be great.

 

[Lugoa2000]

Bump.

 

[F_R]

The 3-dog dog has to be used with a 3-dog gear, and a 2-dog with a 2-dog gear.

 

[F_R]

Parts book show a 2-eared dog in your motor.

 

[Lugoa2000]

Any backyard mechanics for hire in LA/OC? I almost feel like it's a linkage issue on the outboard. When I disconnect the boat control and shift it by hand into forward it feels loose and has play. When I hand shift into neutral and reverse there is no play and the lever feels firm.

 

[F_R]

Few people realize how that thing works. There is a spring loaded ball detent in the clutch dog, which helps to make it snap fully into gear (or neutral). If the parts were in new condition they would snap together and you could completely remove the shift lever and linkage and it would stay in gear.

But if the parts are worn out, there is no way in heck the shift lever and linkage are going to hold it in gear. OK, so there is a mid-wear condition where the lever might be helping to hold it, but that is not its intention, and attempting to hold it in gear with the lever and linkage is futile.

There is a vertical interlock bar on the side of the powerhead. It also has detent notches at the bottom end. If it is doing it's job, the shift lever would always have some pressure in the notches and it should not be loose and sloppy.

When the clutch dog is in the neutral detent position, the interlock bar at the top should also be in the neutral detent position. The adjustment on the shift lever takes care of that. The adjustment is not there to hold it in gear, as explained above.

 

[Lugoa2000]

Thank you for your response. Does anyone know how tall each dog ear is supposed to be? Seems like this one is barely making contact with the cut outs in the gear

 

[Lugoa2000]

The spring and ball bearings seem fine. It takes a good amount of force by hand to move the dog clutch into forward.

 

[Lugoa2000]

The vertical interlock bar you speak of. Does it look like a vertical W? I posted a pictures down below.

When you shift there is a small roller that fits into either reverse, neutral or forward? Its located near the shift lever. If so, the forward part of it seems worn and rounded off

 

[Lugoa2000]

All pictures of forward gear. Doesnt seem too worn compared to dog clutch ears.

 

[Lugoa2000]

Dog clutch from both sides. Seems pretty worn. Also seems like barely the tip of the ear is locking into the cutouts on the gear.





Reverse gear is decent condition. Reverse does not pop out of gear under load.







When in forward position, there is play and it's loose, but while in reverse or neutral it's firm and stays in place.

 

[F_R]

Dog is toast. So is the forward gear, although it might work a while with a new dog. But it would be a short joy. The major wear at the edges is because of the parts banging together as they approach each other. That is why it is so important to shift at slowest RPM possible and as snappy as possible. The goal is to get the dog and gear completely meshed before they bang together (the dog has to catch the gear on the fly--a moving target).

 

[F_R]

Yeah, the pictures show what I'm calling the interlock bar. Might not be the correct terminology.

 

[Lugoa2000]

Dog is toast. So is the forward gear, although it might work a while with a new dog. But it would be a short joy. The major wear at the edges is because of the parts banging together as they approach each other. That is why it is so important to shift at slowest RPM possible and as snappy as possible. The goal is to get the dog and gear completely meshed before they bang together (the dog has to catch the gear on the fly--a moving target).

Yeah that's what I was picturing in my head. Seems like a part that would wear fast. How long can one expect a brand new forward gear and dog to last? i know it's still a cheaper fix ($250) than a whole new outboard. Just wondering if I should maybe repair it and sell it and use that money plus some more $ to buy another outboard? Are there other brands that are known to not have a problem like this?? Mercury maybe?

 

[Lugoa2000]

Yeah, the pictures show what I'm calling the interlock bar. Might not be the correct terminology.

Yes so when the roller goes into the forward slot on the "interlock bar", it is loose and has play. But as you mentioned, the interlock bar isn't meant to hold it in gear anyway...

 

[F_R]

You ask how long it should last. My 1984 Johnson 35 that I bought new in the box still has the original dog & gears. Maybe I shouldn't say anything. Big trip planned for Saturday.

Yeah, dang it, older Mercs are better in that respect. Don't know anything about newer ones. I don't want one anyhow.

 

[Lugoa2000]

You ask how long it should last. My 1984 Johnson 35 that I bought new in the box still has the original dog & gears. Maybe I shouldn't say anything. Big trip planned for Saturday.

Yeah, dang it, older Mercs are better in that respect. Don't know anything about newer ones. I don't want one anyhow.

Oh wow. This one being a 79.... Nah don't worry you have 5 years left atleast I just bought this 15ft Gregor welded aluminum boat with 35hp outboard and it let me down the first time I took it out. The previous owner must've known and sold it to me as is. Oh well, some people just aren't honest. It'll get back to him.

So it seems the key thing here is not to abuse it and it will last a long time. I set my idle pretty low so actually sometimes it dies out on me. But that's the trick to making the clutch last long right? A nice low idle and shift it hard into gear?

On the bright side, changed the gear oil and no water, so atleast that's something lol.

I ordered the forward gear and clutch by the way. I really do appreciate all your help!

 

[Lugoa2000]

On this year and model (1979 35hp 35E79A) is there such a thing as shift rod adjustment? As in backing it in and out of the shifter yoke? I cant seem to find any info for that on my specific model. I have been screwing the shift rod as far into the shifter yoke as possible. This seems like it would only help it to shift into forward better. If I unscrew it more from the yoke, that would just make going into forward worse right?

 

[F_R]

I would have to get out the book to answer that question. And I don't have the book. Reasonably sure it needs to be screwed in all the way, but turning this over to somebody else.

 

[Lugoa2000]

Ok I appreciate it. I found a book on eBay so it's on its way