1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

I saw the marineengine.com one before but, it doesn't look like they have any oversized pistons. Or can you use a standard piston and oversized rings to compensate for the cylinder boring? I just assumed you had to get oversized pistons as well.

And I'm assuming this motor is a crossflow style?

Thanks again.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Think I might have found the best set. $90 for Wiseco http://www.seilermarine.com/wiseco/wis3128.php That's a lot better than $136 each. I was getting nervous about whether this project was going to cost more than it was worth. I guess I will start taking pictures of the motor so I can put it back together again. I did find a lot of wires that will need to be repaired or replaced. One looks like a ground to the lower coil pack that's hanging on by a few strands... If I'm going to do this I want to make sure this thing is done right and will last a long time. Thanks again for helping out an outboard noob. I'll probably be doing a lot more posting here soon

So far with all the kits and gaskets from iboats.com and if I went with the $180 piston/ring set the total would be $325 That's not too bad since that includes the carb kit, water pump kit, powerhead gasket kit, and lower unit seal kit. I wonder if I should just buy new bearings and etc... If I have it machined it will be about $300 total so we're still doing ok for price considering this would be like a new old motor when finished.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

You need pistons according to the cylinder bore. If oversize bore - oversize piston!
Your link above refers to piston 81 and newer, why my warning and the alternate links.
Be aware that you may oversize one cylinder, but be sure you have the same brand of pistons in all cylinders.
Your engine is a cross-flow type.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

I think the ones I would get Wiseco's from that seilermarine link. Those ones are for the 1980 motor according to their chart. I'm still adding things to my iboats cart. So far I added a T-stat kit and fuel pump kit. I may just get new ignition coils as well. I want to try and order everything (besides the pistons) at once. I will need to wait for the machinist to let me know which pistons I need. So, I think the disassembly will start tomorrow. Just going to do more reading in my Seloc manual to make sure I'm doing things right. I plan on using lots of ziplock bags to keep everything organized lol
Thanks again for helping me out.

 

[likitvi]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

i found a 81- powerhead kit on ebay for 250 usd. Should it fit Wien all parta except the Crank shaft Ari changed?

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Add an OEM workshop manual to your list as well and ditch the Seloc!!
In general what I would recommend on the 'wish list' would be:
- Piston(s) with wrist pins, rings and bearings.
- Center crank main bearing.
- Engine gasket sets complete including upper and lower crank seals and water deflectors.
- Gel Seal ll for the crank case sealing.
- Sealing compound for paper gaskets (no sealing on intake gaskets)
- Carb rebuild kit with new fuel hoses from connector - to pump - to carb.
- Impeller/water pump kit.
- Thermostat.(clean old first in Salt Away and test).
- Upper driveshaft seals in gear case.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

I put the crank main bearing, all of the crank seals, and all new needle bearings for the connecting rods to wrist pins and to the crank in my cart. I couldn't find the upper driveshaft seals in gear case. Would those be in the gear housing seal kit? Would you recommend the chrome water pump kit over the regular oem one? Is this the gasket sealer you were thinking about? http://www.iboats.com/Form-A-Gasket...0024944--session_id.815509434--view_id.135127

I did add the gel seal ll to my cart as well.

I was also wondering if this is normal... If I grab the prop I can move it back and forth a little bit. Is that typical to have some play in that? Just making sure I have all my bases covered. I'm doing a lower unit seal kit because I saw a little bit of oil on my SS prop. This project will definately make me more familiar with outboards lol. Again thank you guys so much for helping me out with info. I'm still looking for a cheaper OEM workshop manual. I agree the Seloc is just too generic for my liking...

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Check the contents of the seal kits. Some kits have the crank seals included, some not.
The GC kit has all seals needed included.
As for prop shaft, that may be slightly moved in and out.
Oil on the prop - might have been 'black' sooty oil from exhaust only.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

I had to order each seal and bearing for the crank individually from marineengine.com I called an evinrude book place and they directed me here. http://www.outboardbooks.com/index.cfm/manual/E35ELCS/ I'm pretty sure this is the manual I need but, it doesn't have the "M" at the end of the model #. I tried calling them and couldn't get a hold of them.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Well the outboard book place called me back and I ordered the service manual. $66 but, probably worth every penny. Should be here in 2 days! Ordered all the parts except the pistons. I'll try and find some gasket sealer in town but, everything else should be ordered. I might take a couple vacation days after I get my vacation again tomorrow! I'll wait until the parts are here so I can hammer down and get it back together. I'm going to try and take the flywheel off before work today but, if it won't come off nicely I'll make a puller at work.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Well I made a flywheel puller just for the heck of it. Looks pretty sweet so, hopefully it works as nice as it looks. I would have tried it after work but, I still wanted to take pics of the motor before I started removing things. Might have to figure out how to upload a photo to show off my new tool to add into the toolbox. And I suppose before and after pics of the motor. I should try and find motor paint to make it look purdy again

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Remember to use grade 8 min in the bolts to the flywheel, and preferably a fine thread 'pointed' center bolt. If welding a ring on top of the center bolt, you may even use your puller as a lifting eye for the engine.
Make a Picasa album upload the pics, just re-size (share size) those you want to put directly on the board.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Well I got the flywheel nut off! Soaked the shaft with penetrating oil and tried using my puller (1/2" thick aluminum with slots for the flywheel threaded holes.) Well the pressure broke the aluminum plate. Looks like I might have to make one out of steel... Hope I can remove the flywheel so I can take the motor apart this weekend.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Well I'm so glad I bought the grade 8 bolts and read the Top Secret File about being patient with the flywheel. I did end up buying a harmonic balancer puller kit at the parts store. It took about 5 hours total of putting pressure on it and soaking it. I ended up re-painting my boat trailer while waiting for it to pop off. So, now the trailer looks nice and the boat looks sweet. Now after the rebuild I will paint the motor and hood and get some new decals. Found a set of decals for $50. After it's all painted I'm going to clear coat everything so it lasts. Might even get some decals on the trailer. My almost 3 year old son wants to come out and help daddy fix our broken boat. Kids are awesome! I'm hoping to get the motor taken apart this weekend and take the block and head to a shop to get bored out. Most of my parts will be arriving early next week. I'd be so happy to get this rebuilt in a week or so.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Well I have most of the stuff removed excpet for the intake manifold. I have no idea how this motor ran! There's so many baked wires and even a couple broken ones that are on the internal engine harness. Looks like after all I'll be buying that $160 harness. I was just going to splice in new wires but after taking the electrical tape off the wires were completely shot. I might have to find a tool to remove the wires from some of the connectors. I'm going to order the harness and new ignition coil kits Monday.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Everything is off even the lower unit! Think I'm going to take apart the powerhead inside the house. Pretty hot in the driveway.

I think this is the part that is deformed/melted that's on the top of the waterpump. http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0326693&ptype=&Engine=&Model= Looks like I'll need to order some more parts lol. Going to be a pricey project so hopefully it repays me and has years of use without problems!

I just pulled the spacer off which was difficult since it was partially melted. The impeller look fine which was suprising. Looks like a chrome cup was used the last time it was changed. However it looks like some of the water pump housing may have melted on the inside next to the cup. Not sure why everything was so hot since the impeller looked decent. Unless when I bought the motor a new impeller was installed and the damage was already done. Hard to say but, I want to make sure it's good before I'm done with it.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

The motor is completely disassembled! So, I will be calling a couple of local machine shops to see who can fit me in for some cylinder boring. I will see if they're going to clean it really well. If so, I'm bringing a few covers so it will make it easier to paint later on. Everything went well I inspected the needle bearings just to see if I wasted my money buying all new ones... And they look fine but, they're going to be replaced anyways. I think the T-stat was stuck open. I guess I didn't see any obvious signs of the headgasket failing. I'm just nervous about missing something and this motor going bad. I suppose it could be a lack of flow from the water pump. Just not sure how in the heck the black spacer tube above the water pump melted near the top.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Found a shop in town that will do the job for $80 per cylinder. Going to drop it off when my wife gets home. I noticed a lot of casting lines that would be easy to clean up on the intake manifold. I could even check to make sure the carb and intake manifold mate up without restrictions. I've done port and polishing before but, with this being such a tiny motor do you think it's worthwhile to take some extra time to clean it up? I was also thinking about re-painting the motor but, considering matching it with the colors I painted my boat. The interior is hammered silver and I painted the typical red lund stripe blue (Using the proper Top Coat urethane paint) and put new Lund decals on it. Just not sure if I want to restore it to original condition or make it look nice on my boat. Is the factory paint heat resistant? It's mainly faded on the exhaust housing which makes sense. It would be easier to paint it with the original colors...

Just got the fuel pump kit and gear case kit in the mail today!

 

[jasper60103]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

Sounds like things are progressing nicely. Johny25 can probably give you some tips on painting your motor. I'll ask him to chime in. Also, checkout tinboats.net if interested in doing some mods to your boat. Its a great site...http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=21

Don't hesitate to post some pics during your rebuild if you have time. Thanks for the update.

 

[mjw210]

Re: 1980 35hp Evinrude issues...

I have been taking a ton of pics with my cell phone. Mainly so, I can reference back to how it goes back together... I did put the fuel pump kit in today after work. The little plastic piece with the spring was stuck in place so, not sure what issues that can cause. I didn't have an lubricant or triple grease to change the seals in the lower unit. So, I cleaned up a lot of the cast lines on the intake manifold and the intake side of the crankcase. I will clean them off in the parts washer tomorrow. I just didn't feel like staying until past 3am at work. The machine shop can get the same pistons as I was going to get but, for only like $5 difference. I said to go for it since they're cheaper for the cylinder boring. That way they can check tolerances and fit the pistons and rings in there. Just not sure how soon they'll get it finished. Probably a week is my guess... I've got other things on the motor to do while I'm waiting on that though. I'll figure out how to post pics soon.

One thing that makes me nervous is I removed the driveshaft from the lower unit and it says in the Seloc manual that the entire lower unit needs to be removed if that happens. I was just planning on doing the outer seals and not messing with the gears since it's never had any issues with that. Can't I just put the drive shaft back in? I haven't rotated the prop shaft at all if that helps. Also, I'm having a hard time finding some Triple grease that the book said you need if seals are back to back. And the only gasket sealer I found was this Super High Tack 97 made by Permatex and is used as a gasket sealer. Is that the right stuff for the gaskets?