1980 50 hp Johnson ing. switch

[Quick3201]

Trying to replace the ing. switch mounted on the remote control box. (lost my key)..Looks simple to open control up looking at it from the outside. Afraid that there may be hidden dangers lurking there when last screw is removed. Took my Chrysler control apart, but it looked a lot simpler. Any one with experience that can help me avoit oit falls?

 

[bonz_d]

If there is nothing wrong with the switch then do not replace it. look at the outside of the switch and there should be a number on it. Take that number ot any Evinrude dealer and they should be able to get you a new key. Much cheaper than a switch.

 

[eavega]

The OEM Manual should contain a section on the control, including an exploded diagram. On my 1976 70 HP control, the only gotcha was the detent ball (gives you the "click" to let you know you are in gear when throwing the throttle lever). Its spring-loaded, and if you are not ready for it and the plate that holds it in place has moved, it will shoot out of the control like a BB. Looking at the exploded diagram for that motor doesn't show a ball, but rather a roller.

Rgds

Eric

 

[eavega]

The OEM Manual should contain a section on the control, including an exploded diagram. On my 1976 70 HP control, the only gotcha was the detent ball (gives you the "click" to let you know you are in gear when throwing the throttle lever). Its spring-loaded, and if you are not ready for it and the plate that holds it in place has moved, it will shoot out of the control like a BB. Looking at the exploded diagram for that motor doesn't show a ball, but rather a roller.

Rgds

Eric

 

[Tim Frank]

+1 on getting a new key. Lot less wiring involved.

 

[Quick3201]

Thanks to all of you. Good advice, I'll try for the "key".
Thanks again!!

 

[wrench001]

I got a key from a guy on e bay. $10 and 2 days. just need the number

 

[Quick3201]

Never found number on switch. New switch came in. Got control box open, no problem,no loose detent balls!! Looked at old switch, looked at new switch. Seemed to be the same. Started replacing one wire at the time. By the time I removed the third wire notices that it seems the id marki ngs on each terminal were reversed. Is that possible?? Is that normal for a replacement switch? Before I put power to the switch*****is there anyting I can destroy if I have a wire in the wrong place? Not worried about the ground, it's easy to spot.
Thanks in advance, always good advice from you folks.

 

[glenn property of pam]

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html this should help. Make sure you get the Magneto wires correct. as for the rest if they are hooked up wrong the worst it will do is not work. Better to use a volt meter and prove the switch wiring first then hook the wires up.

 

[Quick3201]

Thank you, one of the better wiring diagrams I have seen. Spent most of this afternoon with the switch, volt/ohm meter. Got it wired correctly as far as I can tell. Problem is electric choke doesn't work. Choke will work with jumper wire from hot wire to choke at engine. Choke will not work with switch or if I jump choke wire at switch to the hot wire on switch. (Remove choke wire and touch it to hot wire) Fyi..... Have been trying choke with switch "on" but not in the "start" position as I didn't want it to start in shop with no water going in. Switch on, push key in. No choke.
Thanks to all on the forums!! Great resource of knowledge.

 

[Quick3201]

OK, problem solved!!! Short version. This is a used 1980's new to me boat. Purchased from neighbor, nice guy, not the best mechanic. I had started replacing ing. switch because I lost the key. Installed, no choke. reviewed all the wiring diagrams I could find. Rewired switch twice. Traced choke wire from switch to large connector under cowling. Looked like the engine side of the plug had been rewired with splices. Warning buzzer and choke were crossed!!! Hot wire was melted. Rewired the plug on engine side with new fused power wire, uncrossed buzzer and choke wires. Been working on this for a week but now it works. BTW called prior owner; he said choke never worked!! Electrical solutions are never what they seem. Thanks to all who offered advice and help.

 

[Quick3201]

OK, problem solved!!! Short version. This is a used 1980's new to me boat. Purchased from neighbor, nice guy, not the best mechanic. I had started replacing ing. switch because I lost the key. Installed, no choke. reviewed all the wiring diagrams I could find. Rewired switch twice. Traced choke wire from switch to large connector under cowling. Looked like the engine side of the plug had been rewired with splices. Warning buzzer and choke were crossed!!! Hot wire was melted. Rewired the plug on engine side with new fused power wire, uncrossed buzzer and choke wires. Been working on this for a week but now it works. BTW called prior owner; he said choke never worked!! Electrical solutions are never what they seem. Thanks to all who offered advice and help.

 

[Quick3201]

OK, problem solved!!! Short version. This is a used 1980's new to me boat. Purchased from neighbor, nice guy, not the best mechanic. I had started replacing ing. switch because I lost the key. Installed, no choke. reviewed all the wiring diagrams I could find. Rewired switch twice. Traced choke wire from switch to large connector under cowling. Looked like the engine side of the plug had been rewired with splices. Warning buzzer and choke were crossed!!! Hot wire was melted. Rewired the plug on engine side with new fused power wire, uncrossed buzzer and choke wires. Been working on this for a week but now it works. BTW called prior owner; he said choke never worked!! Electrical solutions are never what they seem. Thanks to all who offered advice and help.