1980 Chrysler 6 HP Ignition question (Points and Condensor and Coil)

[SeaKaye12]

Hello....

Can someone tell me the typical resistance I should have in the primary and secondary windings of these Prestolite coils?

My coils are original part nuimbers #FWM-1038 (top) and FWM-2500 (bottom).

Also; can anyone explain why there are different part numbers for each of the coils? On OMC motors and others...the coils are identical from top to bottom cylinders.......

Thanks folks; I appreciate it.

Chuck

 

[jerryjerry05]

Can't help with the resistance??
​But the coils can use a bunch of different parts to get spark.
Sounds like someone used what he could get??

I see you posted twice?? There a problem?

 

[SeaKaye12]

Hey jerryjerry...I was hoping you would reply; you seem to be "the source" on the forum .....

I posted twice because there were two different questions; one involving the coils and the other involving the carb and timing.

I have the 6 HP with intermittent spark on one cylinder. I suspect it is a bad condensor but in testing the resistance of the coils I get very unusual readings....much much different from say the readings on OMC coils. I was hoping to get thje specs so I could ascertain if they were indeed within range.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[Nordin]

You says it is a 1980 model. In that time I think the small Chrysler also had a CDI system.
But as you state it has points and condenser the ignition system is the one they use from early 60.s.

The spec. for the coil is then, prime side about 0,8-1,5 Ohm (the reading depends on how good VOM and test leads you have as it is very low resistance)
Secondary side should have about 5,5-8 kOhm.

Normaly a coil does not go bad at the Windings (prime/secondary side) BUT the insulation goes bad internal or external as the insulation dries out..
Check the HT cables from insulation and the spring in the rubber boot from rust/ bad connection.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Can you post a pic along with a model#?
​The 80 model came with electronic. no points.

​Try swapping the condenser or coils around and see if the problem follows the move.
What kind of spark tester?

 

[SeaKaye12]

It is a 1980 Loop-charged chrysler model 64HOF. The ignition plate does indeed look like the 60's Chryslers/SeaKing. Prestolite/WIKO. Here's the parts

Mod EDIT. Link removed

Since CDI sells a replacement coil (their p/n185-2370) I e-mailed their tech support and asked for the specs on my OEM coils. I was told that specs should be as follows:

The ign. coil resistance should be: primary: 0.2-1.0ohms secondary: 800-1100ohms I get readings way way higher than that; essentially out of range for the meter. Very odd; since the engine runs. I have the conventional spark checker like the one in the picture. I get a bright white spark on the top cylinder and a yellow-orange spark on the bottom (intermittently). I did swap condensors from top to bottom and odly the yellow/orange spark improved but the engine still misses. Mostly at idle.

 

[60sboater]

I'm working on a '84 Sea King/Chrysler 15 and it has the same points ignition as yours. The coil secondary is about 7K and primary is about 1 ohm on mine. I just put new condensers in yesterday...they should measure 0.16 to 0.20 uf. My 15 runs but not too well. Low speed is better than higher. I think carb is ok but maybe f.p. has issues. My coil part numbers are the same as yours. It's a Prestolite mag with Mercury parts.

 

[Nordin]

800-1100 Ohm at secondary side on a points system is way to low. Should be about 5-8kOhm.

How long does the spark jump with the spark tester?
It should jump at least 2 in in atomsphere.

I would recommend you to replace the condenser.

 

[SeaKaye12]

800-1100 Ohm at secondary side on a points system is way to low. Should be about 5-8kOhm.

Exactly what I would have expected too.....that's what a typical OMC coil will read. I would have assumed that a coil from a Chrysler would be about the same.

Yet....CDI says otherwise. Although that might be the specs for their replacement coils.

And....look at what the Chrysler Service Manual says. Two different "ranges" for the top and bottom cylinder. I am challenged now to figure out why that would be so.

 

[cak7700]

I know this is an old post, but it helped me get mine running again. 1989 Force 15hp with same coils. Top coil was 13,000 ohms, bottom was 7,500. I ordered new coils then saw this post. Put it back together and it ran fine. Manual calls for a different coil all together and says they should both have 13,000 to 15,000 ohms. Pretty sure it was just the points and I was overthinking it. Carb rebuild and now running fine.

 

[cak7700]

Great to hear it run again after sitting 8 years.

MODERATOR EDIT: Please review the forum rule about posting to old threads. This one is now closed.