1980 mercury 80hp did checking compression blow CDI

red85k100rs

Seaman
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
74
I bought a 1980 mercury 80hp. serial 558xxxx
I got it home, took all 4 plugs out and cranked it enough to check compression in all 4 cyl's.
No controls, no key,

Did I blow the CDI?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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38,421
I doubt you damaged the CDI.----Did you hear it run before buying ?-----What was the compression ?-----No spark now ?
 

red85k100rs

Seaman
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Sep 10, 2007
Messages
74
Thanks for it quick response.
I bought it from a widow, her husband removed it from his boat for unknown reason, and then passed away.
I suspected waterpump and maintenance.
It came with no controls so I didn't hear it run. but widow and grandson said it ran fine.
Compression was 116,118,118,118
The motor looks very well cared for, Drive oil was good,
the wires that went to coils 3 & 4 were shot(falling apart) I changed that out.
When I turn it over (jump solenoid) no spark.
I thought it should have spark with no controls connected.

Outboards are kinda new to me, mercruiser I know much better.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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49,038
Don't forget to change the impeller or you may regret it.
 

3boydad

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Mar 20, 2020
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Weird, I would think with key on turning flywheel by hand you should get spark. That’s how people set static timing yes?
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,778
My battery wasn't turning motor fast enough.
Swapped battery and now I have spark.

V=L di/dt.......voltage out of a magnetic circuit is dependent upon the Inductance of the device (L) and rate of change of the current (di) vs time (dt). Faster the current changes for a given circuit, higher the voltage output.

On blowing your CDI question, Merc claims a 40,000 volt pulse potential in millionths of a second (microseconds) out of the CDIs.....aka fast rising pulse necessary to fire plugs that are partially fouled, common in 2 stroke engines where oil accompanies the fuel.

The CDI capacitors (in the Capacitor Discharge Ignition module) are charged to several hundred volts and that charge is ½ CVexp2 (½ the Capacitance x the Voltage squared) and it is a stored energy source. Once the Stator Trigger (mentioned above) is generated and triggers the CDI, that charge is dumped supposedly into the gap of the spark plug which dissipates it in the form of heat-the arc. If there is no gap for dissipating such, the energy still exists and will be reflected back to the original circuit in the opposite direction (phase) and something has to consume it....question is what...answer is something in your CDI, like a resistor....if there is one, designed for such purpose....and that's for each pulse generated when their is no gap to consume such.

Without a spark plug attached, the above mentioned voltage starts rising and can go to full voltage without something to clamp it at a lower voltage.....aka a spark plug gap....with the case of the plug grounded...for conductivity. For that reason, any time I test compression I do it with the plugs attached to the CDI high voltage lead and their cases/shells wired together and to ground with a piece of wire. Do I need to????? Depends on the dielectric stand off capability of the/my ignition HV circuit insulation. My feelings are, why challenge my equipment to see if it will when I don't have to and CDIs are a hundred bucks a pop if you are lucky and you have to go through the replacement hassle!
 
Last edited:

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Weird, I would think with key on turning flywheel by hand you should get spark. That’s how people set static timing yes?

You're thinking battery powered ignition module. These engines use a magneto style charging system for the capacitor in the switch box. You need a minimum of around 250-300rpm to generate enough voltage to charge the that capacitor.

There is no 'static timing' set up. The 'link and sync' is done initially without the engine running, sometimes using a piston stop to find the exact TDC, then the final adjustments are done with the engine running. Those final adjustments can include maximum spark advance and and pickup timings. The idle speed is (usually) set by retarding the timing. Once the idle speed is right, the mixtures are set, then the idel timing reset to where is should be (again)...

With cars, you set the initial timing, then back the carb off to get the right idle speed. Outboards are the opposite. You close off the carbs completely (there's a small hole in the throttle plate to allow the right amount of air through), then retard the timing until the idle speed is right....

Chris...........
 
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