1980's bass boat project

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Jordan,
Nice project! Welcome Aboard. Lots of good guys here to help you. Would like to tag along if that's ok with you. I'm a Newb so information is so cool!
Cool looking boat!
KC
 
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Jordanchastin

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Feb 3, 2015
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Oh yeah hope on the boat KC.

okay guys, got everything vaccummed and some fiberglass from the stringers pulled up, took little to no effort on the use to be stringers in the middle of the hull. I did lake a look at the transom and it look really solid and not rotted out. But behind it on the outside there are two cracks, would these be caused by a weak transom? Ill post pics of them. Thanks guys!!



 

bonz_d

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Apr 22, 2008
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Those cracks with that small of an outboard would surely indicate a weak or rotten condition in the transom. Pulling the cap off should make for an easy repair to the transom, stringers and decking.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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I'd bet money that transom is toast. And I would replace it and the stringers and the floor as well. That way YOU will know that your boat is fixed correctly and better then new. I mean you are going to have to gut the boat anyway, why not replace the transom as well and know for sure!
 

Jordanchastin

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Hey guys, what's the best way to get the rear of the boat taken off. I've got all rivets out but at the rear it looks like it is fiberglassed together? Ill post some pics for y'all to see. Thanks guys





 

gm280

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Could be they used some polyester resin around the transom area to seal it off from water intrusion, and that could be holding it together in the back area. IDK for certain but just making a "could be" statement. I'm sure others will chime in and say one way or the other. There are plenty of folks on these forums that separated a cap from a hull and will have better ideas...
 

Jordanchastin

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Feb 3, 2015
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Thanks GM, that might be the case. I was looking at it and after the last section where the two pieces connect I can't find where they sealed it. Must have done a good job of sealing it lol.
 

Woodonglass

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Use a Sawz all with the longest stiffest blade you can find and cut down thru those cracks and you should be able to free up the transom. You'll be able to repair it on the go back!!!;)
 

bonz_d

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Looking back thru the picture I don't see one of the side, only a partial shot from the bow. So my question is there a rub rail along the side that would be hiding the seam between the cap and hull? To make the cut you could also use an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Just go slowly and be careful.
 

gm280

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If you have a Dremel Multi Max tool, or some facsimile made by another company, you could us that and see how that works out also with separating the cap from the hull. Amazing how well one of those things cuts through fiberglass and wood, and even metal using the proper blade(s). DO take pictures and post them. We are following you along already! :thumb:
 

gm280

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Jordanchastin, I am interested in your project because of the type boat it is. I don't know if you know or not that your blue metal flake finish is going to be nearly impossible to fix or reproduce! Those type finishes are applied during the very early stages of manufacture the boat in the forums or molds. So I see a different finish is going to happen towards the end of your project. Have you thought about any colors yet or are you going to try to salvage the finish the best you can?
 

Jordanchastin

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Feb 3, 2015
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Sounds good guys, yes there was a rub rail that was screwed to the top piece. I unscrewed that and screwed the rivots out. I have to make a couple cuts on some fiberglass that is still attached. Where the outboard was is the only place that doesn't have a seam where the two pieces were conjoined.
 

Woodonglass

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Where the outboard was is the only place that doesn't have a seam where the two pieces were conjoined.
This is typical for many bass boats. If you search the forum you'll see where a lot of the guys had to cut this joint free. Since you have the cracks already there you should be able to get the sawsall blade down into the cavity to make the cut. I think you'll find that the resin joint could be quite extensive and could require the blade length of the sawsall to get it cut free.
 

Jordanchastin

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Feb 3, 2015
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How does this look? I have a piece of black tape showing where I can't to cut.. Hope y'all can see it.. Thank fellas

 

Woodonglass

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IF That's a piece of tape running vertically up the transom from top to bottom??? then NO NO NO!!! If it's Only parallel across the top then. YES YES YES!!!
 

gm280

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Okay, Houston we have liftoff... Looks like everything is moving along nicely... Bravo! As stated before, take tons and tons of pictures. I can guarantee you those pictures will come in handy down the road for certain. In fact, you can't take enough pictures! I have certainly save countless hours because I took the right picture and never even knew it at the time... :thumb:
 

Jordanchastin

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Feb 3, 2015
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It's trying to take off GM! Do you agree with woodon and where that tape is, is a good place to cut?
 

gm280

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It's trying to take off GM! Do you agree with woodon and where that tape is, is a good place to cut?

Yes I do agree. It looks like the best option to me... After the cap is removed, You'll get a better idea how everything will go back together for a much better seal against water intrusion!
 
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