1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

jasoutside

jasoutside

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

If you are looking to do a multi year rebuild you may want to start with the most important stuff. Kinda like the foundation of a house you know. Pulling everything out, replacing bad rivets, sealing up the hull with Gluvit, adding in new flotation, new deck, new transom - then go from there. By putting in new carpet, new casting decks, new livewell I kinda think you'll end up tearing all that stuff out again to repair/replace whats underneath.

I think a great example of a multi year rebuild is what Huron Angler is doing with his Super Sport. He built a bunch last winter, fished all summer and now he is back at it. You can find his project (and a whole bunch of other super good ones) if you click on the "Starcrafts being rebuilt" in my signature there.

Have fun!
 
bonz_d

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

From your latest pictures I find it hard to tell just how the original deck was installed. Was it a complete flat surface or was there a raised deck? Can't tell or see any telltail signs.

I would also agree that the very 1st thing you should do is check to make sure the hull is tight and there are no leaks. Though as I've learned from being here, lose leaky rivets are usually an easy fix.

Also, just my opinion but as you stated in the previous post that there is a concern about the condition of the Chrysler/West Bend. If you cannot find the transom bracket very cheaply I would be looking for a replacement engine. The Merc and Johnyrudes 35hp and up from the early 70s all have the tilt tube that your steering cable will work with very nicely. I would consider watching craigslist. You would be surprised at some of the deals on there.
 
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Spooner2010

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

jasoutside said:
If you are looking to do a multi year rebuild you may want to start with the most important stuff. Kinda like the foundation of a house you know. Pulling everything out, replacing bad rivets, sealing up the hull with Gluvit, adding in new flotation, new deck, new transom - then go from there. By putting in new carpet, new casting decks, new livewell I kinda think you'll end up tearing all that stuff out again to repair/replace whats underneath.

I think a great example of a multi year rebuild is what Huron Angler is doing with his Super Sport. He built a bunch last winter, fished all summer and now he is back at it. You can find his project (and a whole bunch of other super good ones) if you click on the "Starcrafts being rebuilt" in my signature there.

Have fun!
Click to expand...

I agree with you Jasoutside 100%. That?s why I?m here. LOL? I need you guys to tell me the stupid mistakes most newvbies make when we get a fixer upper. I plan to have the outboard looked over real well. I have a thread going in the Chrysler Outboard Forum. Identifying a Chrysler Outborad. I posted some picks and found out where I needed to look to find the model and serial number. Turns out it?s a West Bend and not a Chrysler. But the guys over there assure me it?s a sound motor and parts are fairly easy to find. So now I just need to get it in and have the carbs cleaned and the compression checked. If it all checks out and is in good working order I?ll start on other parts of the boat. From what I?ve read around here the Transom is important. That?s why I posted those pics right away. Like I said before it doesn?t have any visible rot or spongy spots. It just looks like it needs to be painted. If you see or know of something to be aware of with transoms please speak up. Your input is GREATLY appreciated. The hull is in really good shape. There are no dents and only two scratches and no signs of water leaks. How can I tell for sure that a rivet doesn?t leak? Do I have to wait and put it in the water this spring?
 
Huron Angler

Huron Angler

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

The best way to fix leaky rivets is to re-buck them with a small sledge, backed on the inside with a metal plate.

After that you will want to invest in a product called Gluvit, available here at iboats for about 50 bucks. This is a 2-part epoxy resin embedded with zinc chromate so it adheres well to bare aluminum. Paint this thick on all rivets and seams and the boat WILL NOT leak.:D

This is probably the single best thing that we can do to help out these older riveted hulls, it's a great product for wood and metal boats.

Since you don't know if any rivets leak, just coat all of them after hitting them with a wire brush to clean them up well.
 
S

Spooner2010

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

bonz_d said:
From your latest pictures I find it hard to tell just how the original deck was installed. Was it a complete flat surface or was there a raised deck? Can't tell or see any telltail signs.

I would also agree that the very 1st thing you should do is check to make sure the hull is tight and there are no leaks. Though as I've learned from being here, lose leaky rivets are usually an easy fix.

Also, just my opinion but as you stated in the previous post that there is a concern about the condition of the Chrysler/West Bend. If you cannot find the transom bracket very cheaply I would be looking for a replacement engine. The Merc and Johnyrudes 35hp and up from the early 70s all have the tilt tube that your steering cable will work with very nicely. I would consider watching craigslist. You would be surprised at some of the deals on there.
Click to expand...

I know Bonz. That?s why I wish I could find some old pictures or layouts of the original. Right now I have to guess at everything.

The West Bend is going to have to do for at least a little while. In my 4 season rebuild plan on the 4th season I?m going to take out a loan against it and try to find a good 70hp which is what it?s rated for.
 
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Spooner2010

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Home Brew Steering ? Do I leave it the way it is or try to fix it?

Boat 028.jpgBoat 019.jpgBoat 018.jpgBoat 017.jpgBoat 016.jpg
 
jasoutside

jasoutside

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Spooner2010 said:
From what I?ve read around here the Transom is important.
Click to expand...

You bet yur boat motor it is, eh!

Spooner2010 said:
Like I said before it doesn?t have any visible rot or spongy spots. It just looks like it needs to be painted. If you see or know of something to be aware of with transoms please speak up.
Click to expand...

In most cases it's what you don't see that is the issue. Rot is a cancer that starts in the nether regions and works it's way out. When I look at the photos of your transom I see some very weathered wood that is no longer holding paint along with a bunch of caulk. Sketchy. It would be time well spent to do it on the front end rather than build a bunch of stuff around it only to tear it out down the road.

Spooner2010 said:
How can I tell for sure that a rivet doesn?t leak? Do I have to wait and put it in the water this spring?
Click to expand...

Once you rip everything out you can fill it to the water line and see if anything comes streaming out.

Rock on!:D
 
ezmobee

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bonz_d

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

A big thanks to ezmobee on those 2 links. My boat is buttoned up tight for the winter or I'd of shot a picture of a tilt tube hookup and sorry but I lost my saved link to a simular site for the kit. The site tat I had also showed a bracket that mounts to the front of the engine that would connect to the drag link.

From the most recent pictures it looks as though it should work as-is though there is no support tube on the opposite side of the mount. I would watch that for kinking or binding. It's working now so that would be down the list of things to address.

As was mentioned, fill it with water, it will leak out as well as leaking in. As for the transom board, take an ice pick to it and see if you can find any soft spots. It'a a little more work and exspense but it is not a real difficult job to replace it.

Of course the 1st priority should be to make sure the hull is sound. No leaks and the transom is strong. Ugly wont sink! Not saying yours is but as-is you may think so at times. Can you post a few pictures of the lay out as it is now. I'm interested on how the decking was installed.

I'll keep looking for pictures of other Pikes and if I find any I'll forward them to you.
 
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Spooner2010

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Ya know I really appreciate all you guys chipping in and taking the time to trouble shoot, theorize and teach me the ins and outs of owning and rebuilding my boat. I?ve learned a ton here and I have you guys to thank for it. Greatly appreciated guys.

Now back to the fun stuff.

So Mobee? If I get this part it would replace the big chunk of black rectangular tubing and kind of clean the look of the steering up? It sure is a spendy little bugger. I?ll have to think on that one. But thanks for finding it for me.

As for the transom I think I can definitely tackle that. I have a woodworking all(sp) that I?ll use to look for soft spots. I?ll have to keep you guys posted on that. If there are soft spots it looks like it?s going to be a real pain to get the thing out of there. How do you remove rivets? And then what kind of rivets will I need to replace them with? Is that stuff expensive?

I?ll be posting pix shortly Bonz so stand by. They?re on their way.
 
bonz_d

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Thanks for the pixs Spooner. What I was interested in seeing are the pictures of the storage boxes down the sides and the one the helm seat is on.

On my Lund it has a split seat at the helm likes yours. When it was built, Lund put the decking down before they put in the seat boxes in. Which I'm assuming is the case with yours. So what I did when replacing my decking was to remove all the fasteners in the decking, pull all the old carpet then sawed the wood decking down the middle. I was then able to slide the decking out from under the boxes w/o removing them. Then did the same to refit it. Worked out nicely and didn't have to cut any structural rivets from the hull. You should look to see if yours can be done the same way if it needs replacing.
 
ezmobee

ezmobee

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

That transom should be no big deal to replace. Removing the motor will probably be the worst part and that's not even that big a deal. What rivets are you encountering? I didn't have to mess with any rivets on either of the transom replacements I did on Starcrafts. If they're just in the transom end caps, I'd imagine you could just pop-rivet those back on.
 
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Spooner2010

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

bonz_d said:
Thanks for the pixs Spooner. What I was interested in seeing are the pictures of the storage boxes down the sides and the one the helm seat is on.

On my Lund it has a split seat at the helm likes yours. When it was built, Lund put the decking down before they put in the seat boxes in. Which I'm assuming is the case with yours. So what I did when replacing my decking was to remove all the fasteners in the decking, pull all the old carpet then sawed the wood decking down the middle. I was then able to slide the decking out from under the boxes w/o removing them. Then did the same to refit it. Worked out nicely and didn't have to cut any structural rivets from the hull. You should look to see if yours can be done the same way if it needs replacing.
Click to expand...

This is all I got. I don't have a lot of time today so I'll have to get back to this on Monday. Hope these help for the time being. Thanks for the lund link that was cool. Have a good weekend guys!!!

Boat 038.jpgBoat 032.jpgBoat 012.jpg
 
bonz_d

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Spooner, the 1st picture in the last group. Looking at that seat box, my Lund is built the same way. For lack of a better term, see the flange that the seat top rests on. Mine has the same flange on the bottom which was screwed into the decking. If yours is the same way then I would guess the deck boarding was also put down before that seat box was fastened into the hull. Therefore you should be able to remove it the same way I did w/o taking it out of the boat.

Take your time and plan it all out. Try to figure out how everything was put together. Also if this is a long term project and the decking is solid from the helm back it could always be put further down the list.

What is your plan of action for this? What would you like finished this winter?
 
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