1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Spooner2010

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Spooner, the 1st picture in the last group. Looking at that seat box, my Lund is built the same way. For lack of a better term, see the flange that the seat top rests on. Mine has the same flange on the bottom which was screwed into the decking. If yours is the same way then I would guess the deck boarding was also put down before that seat box was fastened into the hull. Therefore you should be able to remove it the same way I did w/o taking it out of the boat.

Take your time and plan it all out. Try to figure out how everything was put together. Also if this is a long term project and the decking is solid from the helm back it could always be put further down the list.

What is your plan of action for this? What would you like finished this winter?


Well Bonz I?ll have to investigate that seat issue a little closer the next time I can get it uncovered. If it?s as you said than I?m lucky you?ve already been there done that. I can just ask you what the next course of action is. But I?m not sure I?m going to mess with the main deck unless it has issues, which I haven?t found yet. So like you said if it?s solid than I may just let that dog lay. The only drawback will be finding carpet to match what?s already on the main deck.

The ?original? plan was to add casting decks to the bow and stern, re-carpet everything and add a live well.

After talking with you guys and the guys over in the outboard forum it?s looking more like ?plan B? will have the motor checked and cleaned, transom redone and rivets. If there is any money and time left I?ll go for the other stuff. Some guys are saying this stuff is easy and inexpensive. But any project ?I? have ever done usually ends up taking 2 weeks longer than anticipated and $200 more than expected. Apparently that?s just how I roll. LOL?

So the big thing is getting the green light on the outboard. If the shop says it?s tight than it?s game on.
 

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Wise choice in my opinion.

Now if that engine comes back good to go or in need of a few repairs and you should decide to keep it one of the 1st things that I would do over this winter is to see if you could find or create a bracket for the front of the engine to try and use a more suitable drag link instead of the rectangular tubing that was used. I would also suggest looking for the steering support tube that the cable end should pass through.

Another one from experience with mine. When I redid the rear seat/deck in my Lund I expanded it few inches looking to make a raised casting deck. Now I wish this boat had a flat deck all the way to the transom. Standing on it now, while in rough water it does become a bit unstable.

BTW, did you see the PM I sent you?
 

Spooner2010

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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96
Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Wise choice in my opinion.

Now if that engine comes back good to go or in need of a few repairs and you should decide to keep it one of the 1st things that I would do over this winter is to see if you could find or create a bracket for the front of the engine to try and use a more suitable drag link instead of the rectangular tubing that was used. I would also suggest looking for the steering support tube that the cable end should pass through.

Another one from experience with mine. When I redid the rear seat/deck in my Lund I expanded it few inches looking to make a raised casting deck. Now I wish this boat had a flat deck all the way to the transom. Standing on it now, while in rough water it does become a bit unstable.

BTW, did you see the PM I sent you?


For whatever reason I can?t visualize this bracket and where it goes. I need to find someone with a boat that has the right set up so I can see how it?s supposed to look. I know nothing about a support tube, drag link or front engine brackets. I should go to the sportsman show this weekend and see if I can figure it out.

Bonz... I didn't even know I could get PM's until you said something.
 

Spooner2010

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Thanks for the link Bonz that definitely sheds some light on it. I like the look a lot more too. A lot more ?organized?.

Between your pic and the one ezmobee posted I get a much better idea of how it should look. The next trick is finding the parts.

But in order to do that I have to know what I?m looking for and what each part is called. So here?s a crack at it.

eglpk.jpg Complete Assembly

Steering Cable.JPG Steering Cable From Helm

Engine Bracket.JPG Engine Bracket

Support Tube.JPG Support Tube

Mount.JPG Mount

Am I close???
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
Messages
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

I can help with one, the "steering link bar" is what goes from the steering cable to the motor. I think that's what you have called engine bracket above.
 

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Spooner, your present mount looks as though it will work just fine though there is no support tube present which may cause the cable to bind. The tube also usually has seals on it to help keep dirt and water out.

The steering link is actually 2 parts. The bar and a bracket. The bracket connects to the front of the engine. Usually where the bracket for the cable and pulley system mounts. The bar then goes from the bracket mount to the end of the steering cable.

The gentelman who's pictures are in that last link sadly is no longer with use, rest his soul, but he had posted quite a few pictures of steering hook-ups over the years. You may want to search some of his threads and see what else you can come up with. Use the search function at the top and just search "steering".
 

Spooner2010

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Well things are looking up. I tested the cylinders yesterday to see if the compression was good. I have a post in the outboard forum to see if my numbers are good. I was told 100 pounds or better was good and my motor came out with 120 pounds. So I?m waiting to hear for sure that I?m in good shape.

After working with the motor some this weekend my priority list has changed some.

1.) All the wiring is dried, faded, cracked and some wire is exposed. So I probably should re-wire the battery cables and the ignition wiring. I don?t know what gauge wire to use or how to wire a boat but I?m sure someone on this forum will know.
2.) The plugs are fouled so I?ll replace those.
3.) The carb looks clean on the outside but I think I?m still going to take it off and clean it and put a new carb kit in it.
4.) Replace the water pump impeller.
5.) Change the oil in the lower unit.

I can?t think of anything else I could do get the motor ready. Is there anything I?ve missed?

Next my attention will be getting this steering issue figured out.
1.) I need to find a bracket and bar
2.) Then a steering support tube.

Before I put the motor back on and the steering I?m going to build a new transom. I already have a guy that will glass it for me.

After all that is done then I?ll start with the forward casting deck, carpet, live well and so on. As much as I want to do all this cosmetic stuff, I think I better focus my resources on getting the motor and steering addressed and corrected first.

Any comments or thoughts guys???
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

That's excellent compression. Plugs, clean carb, lower oil is about all I'd do to it also once you get the wiring fixed up. Sounds good.
 

jasoutside

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Dec 20, 2009
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Great plan to have the transom rebuilt as long as the motor is off!

How about the condition of your deck? Flotation? I don't quite remember and did a quick scan here. Sorry if I missed it.

I'd hate for you to lay down carpet, install a livewell, build casting decks, etc., only to have to tear it all out to replace the deck down the road. That would be a lot of extra $$ an work for not, eh!

Cheers man!
 

Huron Angler

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Sounds like you've got it covered pretty well.

Did you remove the prop and any fishing line that may have gotten wrapped around it?

Mine had a decent amount with some crud on the spline. Good time to take a look at the prop too and see if it could be smoothed out any.
 

Spooner2010

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Messages
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

That's excellent compression. Plugs, clean carb, lower oil is about all I'd do to it also once you get the wiring fixed up. Sounds good.

Thanks Mobee "excellent compression" that's good to hear. The guys over in the outboard forum is saying the starter issue could be ignition switch, solenoid, high resistance or the cables. They are recommending I bypass the ignition and see if the starter will work that way.

Great plan to have the transom rebuilt as long as the motor is off!

How about the condition of your deck? Flotation? I don't quite remember and did a quick scan here. Sorry if I missed it.

I'd hate for you to lay down carpet, install a livewell, build casting decks, etc., only to have to tear it all out to replace the deck down the road. That would be a lot of extra $$ an work for not, eh!

Cheers man!

The lower "main" deck was replaced and recarpeted. Flotation did come up in a conversation I had with my buddy that owns a boat. He wants to rip up the main deck and make sure there is enough if any foam under it. If not he wants to use that expand-a-foam stuff. Will that stuff work?

On the topic of the transom. How dicey is that to get out? I was looking at it and it looks involved. It looks like I?ll have to remove that tray that?s there and then rivet it back in once the new transom is in. Any recommendations on what kind of rivets to use and where I can get them?
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Ooooooooo.....

You might have opened up a can of worms with the "flotation talk". You may want to get your protective gear on!

I'll keep it short and sweet for you...

Pour in, spray in, expanding type foam = nope

Pool noodles, blue/pink insulation board = yup

Strictly my opinion though, others will chime in with theirs. Do a search on flotation and you'll be reading for days.

Click on the "Starcrafts being rebuilt" link on my signature and check out some of the projects similar to yours. You'll get great ideas on how to rebuild a transom. Tons of great info in there!

Have fun man!
 

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Spooner, can you tell by looking, does the wood in the transom go all the way to the bottom or only part way down? Are the corner caps screwed or riveted?

The wood in my Lund only goes about half way and is in a pocket with aluminum on both sides.

As for the foam. Some leave it in others take it out. Being in your location and if you fish a lot of cold water I'd leave it in or add it if it was removed for saftey reasons. Being that if for some unforseen reason you should become swamped it's safer to stay with the boat in cold water rather than trying to make a mad dash swim for shore. Cold water kills in a hurry.
 

Spooner2010

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Messages
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Spooner, can you tell by looking, does the wood in the transom go all the way to the bottom or only part way down? Are the corner caps screwed or riveted?

The wood in my Lund only goes about half way and is in a pocket with aluminum on both sides.

As for the foam. Some leave it in others take it out. Being in your location and if you fish a lot of cold water I'd leave it in or add it if it was removed for saftey reasons. Being that if for some unforseen reason you should become swamped it's safer to stay with the boat in cold water rather than trying to make a mad dash swim for shore. Cold water kills in a hurry.

Bonz

I took a look at the transom last night. It goes part way down. Almost to the main deck and like your lund it has a pocket that the wood fits into and is then screwed in with Phillips head screws. So maybe it won?t be as tough to get out as I first suspected. I forgot to look at the corner caps but I think those are bolted. But I?m not sure.

As for flotation it isn?t a matter of leaving it in or leaving it out, it?s a matter of what?s the BEST foam to use. This is going to be a family boat and I don?t want to take any chances or risks. So it will have foam. Just gotta figure out what would work best.
 

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

The pink stuff from a home improvement store works well and is probably the most cost effective. The store should also have a cement for foam use. Cut it into blocks and glue'm together or gut it so that it can be wedged in so it's not moving around and effectively sanding it's self from viberations.

Just think, only 3.5 months till nice weather!
 

Spooner2010

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

On the topic of transoms I have a buddy that works in fiber glass as a hobby. So when you guys say to build a new transom and glass it is that what you?re talking about? If so I need details as to what is used or needed so I can pass that info onto my buddy for materials. Plus when I build the transom what thickness will I make the transom to accommodate the thickness of the glass? How many coats of glass? Would we use typical mesh or would felt work? That sort of stuff. Any detail would be greatly appreciated guys.
 

bonz_d

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

It's going between 2 pcs of aluminim, I wouldn't glass it. Seal it with a good wood sealer. As for size, 3/4" ply doubled up should be the right thickness. Try and get a measurement before you remove the old one. My Lund is 27 years old, assembled the same way and it is still solid w/o being glassed.
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1981 - 16' Aluminum Pikemaster Rebuild Project

Most of us SC guys sealed ours with epoxy resin.
 
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