1981 Rinker with Mercruiser 120HP, In what order should I do these repairs??

[1lastweekend]

I have a 17' Rinker open bow with a 1981 Mercruiser 120HP that needs the following work this spring:
- Replace all bellows
- Replace trim limit and trim position switches
- Replace lower shift cable

I am pulling the outdrive today, what order makes the most sense to do these repairs? I am also going to pull the bell housing to make doing the TLS and TPS easier...Thanks!

 

[Scott Danforth]

When was the last time the gimble bearing, u-joints, and alignment were checked?

you can do them in the order listed, however when you are doing the bellows, you will need to verify alignment and check the u-joints and gimble bearing. so that portion of the job may grow a bit.

 

[Scott06]

I have a 17' Rinker open bow with a 1981 Mercruiser 120HP that needs the following work this spring:
- Replace all bellows
- Replace trim limit and trim position switches
- Replace lower shift cable

I am pulling the outdrive today, what order makes the most sense to do these repairs? I am also going to pull the bell housing to make doing the TLS and TPS easier...Thanks!

in addition to what Scott said - get a factory manual step by set this is all outlined. Also this is a good place to use OEM parts. I used sierra sender when I did mine and it never worked right.

 

[alldodge]

3 - Replace all bellows
2 - Replace trim limit wires leave switches hanging
1 - Replace lower shift cable

4 - Install trim limit and trim position switches on gimbal ring

 

[kenny nunez]

First make sure the wood in the transom is solid.
The wire harness for the trim sender and trim limit are probably bad also. The bad news is the 2 1/4“bolts that retain the wires most times break off and are just about impossible to drill out, so be careful removing them. If you have a torch that might help.
If this boat is only used in fresh water you might luck out.
Figure on also replacing the water pump in the drive.

 

[1lastweekend]

Thanks all for the feedback! Since the boat is going up for sale after I do the repairs, I am planning on replacing the gimbal bearing and the water pump while I am doing the above list.

But...One problem I found right away when I removed the outdrive, was that the driveshaft bellows was full of gear lube...Looks like my upper driveshaft seal is bad. I'm gonna pressure test it in the morning just to confirm, but there aren't too many ways gear lube gets in those bellows...Luckily it must have been recent, because the u joints and gimbal weren't completely covered...Gonna borrow the spanner for this job from a friend and I already ordered the upper gearcase seal kit...

Is there any concern with setting preload on the gears when I remove the upper gears to replace the seals?

 

[alldodge]

No issue with preload, just follow achris vid in the Merc section and use a rolling torque wrench

 

[1lastweekend]

First make sure the wood in the transom is solid.
The wire harness for the trim sender and trim limit are probably bad also. The bad news is the 2 1/4“bolts that retain the wires most times break off and are just about impossible to drill out, so be careful removing them. If you have a torch that might help.
If this boat is only used in fresh water you might luck out.
Figure on also replacing the water pump in the drive.

Yes I can see the wires between the TP sender and where it goes thru the hull are corroded and bare wire is exposed. I did spray the 1/4" bolts 2 days in a row now with PB blaster, hopefully that helps. 100% freshwater boat so other than some zebra mussels hiding out in there its pretty clean...

 

[1lastweekend]

No issue with preload, just follow achris vid in the Merc section and use a rolling torque wrench

Ok thanks! I have a click-type and a needle-type (beam) torque wrench, but not a true rolling wrench...Those are pricey, maybe my local auto parts store has a loaner...

 

[Pmt133]

If its the original MC-1 drive, the upper bearings should be torque to spec via the nut as they're shimmed. (That's mentioned in the video as well.) You may not need the rolling torque wrench.

 

[alldodge]

Ok thanks! I have a click-type and a needle-type (beam) torque wrench, but not a true rolling wrench...Those are pricey, maybe my local auto parts store has a loaner...

Neither of the the ones you have will work. Hope your local store has a loaner (if needed), needs to be one with a dial

 

[Scott Danforth]

I use the string and inline scale method for rolling torque.

 

[1lastweekend]

If its the original MC-1 drive, the upper bearings should be torque to spec via the nut as they're shimmed. (That's mentioned in the video as well.) You may not need the rolling torque wrench.

Yes this is an original MC-1 drive. After work today I plan on watching the video...

 

[nola mike]

If its the original MC-1 drive, the upper bearings should be torque to spec via the nut as they're shimmed. (That's mentioned in the video as well.) You may not need the rolling torque wrench.

+1, rolling torque wasn't a thing until after the alpha was a few years out.

 

[1lastweekend]

+1, rolling torque wasn't a thing until after the alpha was a few years out.

Yes, I found that since I have the pin on the top of the lower unit driveshaft, this sets the gear stack preload, and the upper driveshaft gear assy is just simply torqued to 80-ft-lbs with a new nut and washer...

 

[1lastweekend]

One additional question for the group- I have replaced the seals in the upper and am putting it all back together- anyone know the correct stackup for the intermediate shift shaft in the upper housing? it had a rubber bushing above the hole, and a SS washer and the cotter pin below when I took it apart...But this rubber bushing isnt in the schematic. Picture is from Reddit, not mine, but is this correct???

 

[nola mike]

I haven't seen a rubber bushing on any of the alphas I've dealt with.

 

[Pmt133]

48 I assume? (These diagrams are available from mercury on their site in the parts catalog FYI)

 

[1lastweekend]

48 I assume? (These diagrams are available from mercury on their site in the parts catalog FYI)
View attachment 415298

Thanks, it is sometimes had to tell with Mercury's drawings what belongs to the lower shift shaft vs the intermediate...When I split the drive, my lower only had 48 and 49 on top of the lower shaft bushing (#47)...I have since seen most videos replace those 2 above the bushing. So I am not sure where #50 belongs...But I am pretty sure 48 is the rubber bushing that sits between the metal bushing and the ss washer...

 

[Pmt133]

48 is the oil seal, 49 the rubber shift shaft bushing and 50 is the stainless washer. 49 is a rubber washer where 48 is an actual lip seal and 47 the actual metal thread in seal.