1982, 115 Carb rebuild

[arrow62]

When rebuilding my carbs on this engine the manual says to remove the intermediate orfice. I cant seem to find it. Also the rebuild kit I baught only has 2 orfices in it. I would think there should be 6. Two high speed, two low speed, and 2 intermediate speed. Here is a pick of the carb I have.
Thanks for Your Help

http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=e

 

[arrow62]

Guess the link did not go all the way through. the model # is E115MLCNB

Thanks

 

[bowrider]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

Ho many screw caps do they have? There's one jet inside each screw. On my 1974, 115 hp there's no intermediate just 4 jets per carb...I think they call it type III

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

Some of the '82 carburetors have the intermediate orifice. When they do, they are found in the float bowl, looking down from the top, one on each side. They are positioned 90 degrees from the high speed orifice, which is horizontal.

To determine which type of carburetor you have, go to the BRP parts catalogs and look up your motor, then navigate to the carb:

http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=e



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[ezeke]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

There are no orifices in a carburetor rebuild kit. The brass fittings are for the float valves that open and close to keep the float bowls properly filled with fuel.​

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

I was incorrect on the intermediate, the intermediate orifices should be just above, and parallel to, the high speed orifices, accessed from the sides of the float bowls. The idle orifices are air-bleed, located at the top center of the carburetor, between the barrels at an upward angle of 45 degrees.​

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[arrow62atwork]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

Thanks for your replay's and advice. I'm making it through Carb 101 o.k. I think!!
Got a few more questions if you don't mind.

1. I've heard in some procedures that the 2 little metal disk's, similar to freeze plugs on a automotive engine, should be removed before soaking. Is this true and if so is there any special procedures to follow. My SELOC manual doesn't say anything about them.

2.What is the best way to remove the plastic roller and the plastic nipple for the gas line, they are plastic and I don't think they should go into the carb cleaner.

3. There is a few parts that came in my rebuild kit that I don't see on my carb. Am I missing something or are these carb kits for several different carbs and there fore have extra pieces?

Thanks Again for you Help!!

Arrow62atwork

 

[bowrider]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

The manual I had when I did my rebuid didin't say anything about the core plugs, so I didn't remove them, eventhough the kit had 4 new cores....now my new manual states how to remove them:
"Drill a 1/8 inch hole through the core plug. to a depth of no more than 1/16 inch below its surface. With a punch, carefully pry out each core plug"
I didnt remove the roller I just didn't submerge it in carb cleaner, and yes I had a bunch of o'rings and stuff leftover...

Can I ask something? Why do you use 2 different screen names? just wondering lol

 

[arrow62atwork]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

about the double login.. I was at work and I had a question but didn't have my login info with me. Sooo, I created another logon so I could post. Hope that makes sense...
Thanks for the info. I will have to get a real manual someday. What is under the plugs, is it really important to take them out. Just don't want to get over my head. On a bright note I did find one of the orfice plugs halfway plugged

Have a Good Day
Arrow

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

this is from a post further down the page. Yes it's important to pull the jets

Quick-man
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 14

Re: 83 Evinrude 75hp will not run without w/o choke

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I took the carbs off and soaked them. Seloc shows a needle valve but there is none. I have three orifices (Seloc does not show this on type I single throat carbs), I am thinking the other one is the mid range orifice. I hope the rebuild kit will come with one of those as well.

I did clean the carbs and thanks to tashasdaddy for the tool specs, I made one today and it worked 100%, now I have one forever. One thing for sure, to do the best possible job you should really take the orifices out, even after soaking for about 2 hours there was still junk in the orifices when I pulled them out, the hi speed was the worst as you would expect, since that is where the fuel stayed to get gunked up.

Since there is no needle valve I am assuming the fixed orifices do the job and I don't need to worry about anything else. There are no adjustments on the carb, besides changing orifices (but why do that). Does anyone have any experience with this type of carb? Am I right that the third orifice is for mid range? I am checking the marina tomorrow to see what they get for a kit with floats but the floats will clean up if they don't have them.

here's the tool to remove the jets: http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s311/frankr_photos/FixedJetScrewdriver.jpg?t=1176028992

 

[arrow62atwork]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

Thanks, actually I did get the jets pullled and will soak them. As far as removel I was wondering about the "freeze plug". The 2 Silver round caps on the float side of the carb. Is it really difficult to remove and reinstall them? Thanks,
Arrow

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

They are easy to remove and reinstall. The most important thing is to protect the surface of the area beneath them from scratches while removing them. If you do not take them out, be sure to use both aerosol cleaner and compressed air on the openings leading to them. On your carburetor the core plugs cover the tuned openings leading to the floor of the carburetor throats.

If you are careful you can remove them with a good quality awl, or make one with a good nail punch ground to sharpen the tip. Just be careful not to drive it much below the surface. Once you have penetrated the plug, just pry it out. If you dont have an appropriate tool to put in the new plugs, a hard bolt with a smooth bottom will do, just tap the new plug in the center until it is flat. A little sealer around the edge will insure a tight fit.​

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

there is a link on the forum, that states you can use a 1/8 " drill bit with a little grease to collect shavings, and drill out the center of the plug, careful to just go thru, then use a sharp awl, to work them out.

 

[arrow62]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

Thanks for the repls.
I got the carbs rebuilt and back on but when priming the primer bulb the upper carb leaks gas through what I believe is the venturi ports (2 gold tubes in center of carb). I'm thinking that my float and needle seat are not closing the gas off to the bowl properly? Does this sound right or am I missing something else.
Thanks,
Arrow

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

Sounds like you've diagnosed your problem correctly.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1982, 115 Carb rebuild

When the float bowl is full, the float will lift the valve and close it. When the bowl is full, a little air pressure on the fuel hose leading to the bowl will tell you if the valve is functioning or not- saves taking everything apart if that is not the problem, though it sounds like it is.​