1982 15 hp Worn Out Upper Shock Mounts

[scout-j-m]

I recently bought a 1982 Evinrude 15hp. It runs fairly decent, has 110 psi on both cylinders, and has a solid lower unit, but definitely needs some TLC otherwise. I think it may be getting some water in the cylinders too after running a while... but since I have a backup 9.5 hp, I would like to be able to give it a lake test after I do some routine stuff to it.

So, regarding the subject line, this motor's upper shock/mount that attaches the exhaust leg to the swivel tube is totally worn out. The entire motor will rock back and forth what seems like an inch or so with minimal force and it is spitting a fair amount of water and a LOT of exhaust gas out of the mount area when I run it in a barrel. Should this definitely be addressed before this motor is ran at high speed on a boat? Looking at the parts list, I can't tell exactly how it is all held together in there. I figured I would ask just to err on the side of caution.

 

[racerone]

Powerhead has to be removed to replace these mounts.---------Get ready for sticker shock when you price new mounts too !

 

[scout-j-m]

Powerhead has to be removed to replace these mounts.---------Get ready for sticker shock when you price new mounts too !

Yeah, I already read a few things on them and looked up the prices...$90 each for the part shown below, and 2 are required. Luckily, I have an identical year 9.9hp that I also purchased which appears to have a solid upper mount, so I can always swap mounts if needed. Also, I've never removed a powerhead on these models, but have done a couple other outboards so that part of the job doesn't really bother me.

Back to the original question, for the purpose of being able to lake test the motor, can it be ran with a bad upper mount? I would prefer not to go hunting the parts nor do the parts swap between the two motors until I know how well I can get it running otherwise.

 

[Chinewalker]

It won't go anywhere. The heads for the bolts that go through the mounts go through a common plate. May make for some squirrelly handling characteristics, though...

 

[scout-j-m]

It won't go anywhere. The heads for the bolts that go through the mounts go through a common plate. May make for some squirrelly handling characteristics, though...

Thank you. I'm thinking it had a lot of slop front to back but I also don't remember it having much play side to side. I'm not sure if there are bushings constraining it in that direction or not, but if there are, maybe they are still good and will help it handle adequately. As long as it works good enough to get a feel for how well the motor is running I will be happy for now.

 

[kbait]

My buddy didn't want to spring for new upper mounts, and fitted a creative rubber bungee from transom clamp around exhaust housing..works fine.

 

[scout-j-m]

My buddy didn't want to spring for new upper mounts, and fitted a creative rubber bungee from transom clamp around exhaust housing..works fine.

I'm with him on that! I don't really understand why a part that is intended to have a limited life is priced so high. But if it still works, no big deal I guess...but it sure does smoke a lot in a barrel as a result lol!

 

[boobie]

Kbait, could you post a pic of that rubber bungee your Buddy used on that 15 hp with the bad mtr mounts.

 

[thumbnut]

Mine was the same way. Go to the auto store and buy a polyurethane sway bar bushing kit. Gut the rubber out of the old units, must be no scraps left.Using a bolt through the middle, chuck the bushings in a drill and hold against a grinder to make hour glass shape. Press bushing inside of mount with lube of some sort. Then press center metal bushing inside poly, using lube. It worked and looks cool with blue bushings. I didn't want to put the power head back on. And $15 total cost.

 

[kbait]

Sorry, no photo, but I think he hooked one end to the steering bracket beneath the stop button location, then routed the rubber strap underneath the tiller arm, around back of exhaust housing (just beneath lower cowl), then under the shift handle, and hooked to steering bracket on shifter side. Not exactly sure on the routing, just make sure motor can steer both directions, and shifts freely. He tied a knot in the rubber strap to get enough tension pulling forward on the powerhead to mostly counteract the thrust of the motor pulling it backward at speed.
Thumbnut's fix above sounds good too - requires powerhead removal..but I like the price!
Also, if you google 'leeroy's ramblings' and go to his 9.9/15 page, he has a similar fix using fabricated, inexpensive OMC bushings.

Good luck!

 

[scout-j-m]

I appreciate all of the replies. I think I will try something along the lines of the fixes mentioned here. Until then, can some type of rtv, caulking, sealant, etc be used to seal the void around the worn rubber? I spent a couple hours today replacing the fuel lines and running in a barrel and it is about to smoke me out. I know it will be better on the lake but any temporary reduction would be nice.

 

[Chinewalker]

You're gonna get smoked out running in a barrel no matter what you do...