1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Cohokiller74

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May 1, 2010
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I just got a new to me 1982 Bayliner Capri with a volovo 270 when I got it it started just fine and ran in the driveway with the garden hose attached. The fuel has been in the tank for who knows how long (years??). Anyhow the seller replaced the plugs, coil, cap, rotor, and a couple other things. I took the boat out on the water after I got it for a test run and it started just fine and warmed up. Idling out of the no wake zone it worked just fine. Once out there I gave it more throttle and it bogged down and wouldn't go faster than 10 or so mph. When in neutral it will rev fully but under load it boggs down. Any ideas on where to start figuring this out?

Thanks a bunch
 

Bondo

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71,088
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...

You can start with this,...
List of possible causes of low WOT (Wide Open Throttle) rpm.

In no particular order

Engine Won't Reach Operating RPM. Check

1. Fuel condition. Type and Octane possibly old fuel
2. Propeller pitch or diameter, damaged blades
3. Restricted fuel pickup tube or anti siphon valve Fuel System Test
4. Crankcase oil volume, high oil level can cause aerated oil and lifter collapse
5. Marine growth on hull and outdrive
6. Wrong gear ratio in outdrive
7. Restricted carburetor air intake (clogged flame arrestor)
8. Restricted exhaust system (broken exhaust shutters/flappers) in engine transom shield or drive
9. Poor cylinder compression Compression Test
10. Carburetor defective, or wrong type.
11. Fuel pump pressure and vacuum
12. Boat overloaded, improperly loaded, or improperly trimmed.
13. Engine Overheating
14. Engine timing and ignition system operation
15. Remote control cables and linkage for proper travel to open throttle plates fully.
__________________

Don S.
 

Ryan50

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
109
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

My old 83 Capri with AQ125A jumped timing 2 teeth and caused the exact same problem. It was a reletively easy fix, remove cooling system, remove timing cover, loosen timing belt tensioner hold down bolt, remove timing belt, find top dead center on cylinder #1 (I used a probe in the spark plug hole), rotate camshaft and line up the notches on the cam and crank pulleys with the lines on the timing belt. Torque down the tensioner bolt and reinstall the covers and cooling system. If I remember correctly, that was about it. Of course, this was 15 years ago, I could be leaving something out. Maybe someone else will chime in and confirm or correct me. Good luck.
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,848
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

There are many reasons for your engine to act the way it is. Those engine need to be well tuned to perform correctly. With any engine 28 years old, I would start with some basic tests to determine the current health of the engine.

I would begin with a compression test. There is a lot of info, good and bad, that can be found from this basic, easy test.

It could be the timing belt like suggested, but that is only one possibility. I would go through the engine systematically. You will find the problem and learn your way around the engine at the same time. We'll be happy to help you through the process. Begin with a basic compression test and post your findings.:)
 

Cohokiller74

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Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Thanks for the information. I took the flame assestor off and cleaned it (it was very nasty). There is no buildup on the hull or outdrive. I am going to work on emptying the fuel tank and replacing the bad (old) gas (might be the easiest fix). I also checked the oil level in the engine and it is good. I am going to assume that the prop and gear ratio are correct since everything looks original. The engine isn't overheating. My plan is to work with the bad gas situation and then get a manual and work on the compression test and timing (I need to enlist some friends with more experience for that work). I did run into another problem while working around and checking things. Now my outdrive will no go down. It goes up just fine. When I took the cover off the relay and depressed the plunger the outdrive works properly. With the cover off and pressure on the plunger switch the outdrive will go up and down all day. As soon as the cover goes on it won't work. Any extra help would be great.
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
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3,848
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

sounds like the trim limit switch is bad or perhaps you're overtightening the two bolts that hold the box on the tilt mech. The box should be tightened just enough to keep it from moving up and down, it will still spin on top of the tilt assembly. When it is over tight, it can interfere with the limit switch.

Fresh gas is aways a good start.:) also enlisting the help of someone more experienced with mechanics can also be beneficial. :rolleyes:

You can download a manual in the adults only section of the I/O forum. Here's a link

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=2360521#post2360521

Let us know how it goes.
 

-JR-

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 21, 2009
Messages
133
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Had the same fault with mine (84 baylinner ).ran fine until you give her some fuel .
Had to idle her into the dock one day .
When I got her home I noticed an adjusting screw had fallen out of the carb .

Its not the low idle mixture on the bottom of the carb but there is one more on the top ,its facing front of engine.Believe they call it a air screw.
Never seen one of these before. Have mine set at 2 turns out.
not sure if this is where it should be but works so so .
please let me know what you found.
Good luck
Picture019.jpg
 

Cohokiller74

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Messages
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Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Checked the prop on the boat it is a 14X19 prop. Is this too much pitch? I also loosened the box on the top and made sure it spun on the shaft this still didn't work. bypassing the trim limit switch will work. (not an option I want as a solution) Is there any other place to get the switch it is very expensive for such a little switch? It seems to work but is a little gummed up do you think that some electrical cleaner could work to loosen it up and get it working reliable? I got the gas drained out of the tank (it was the color of weak tea, not the right color I would think). I also checked the vent line and where it made a loop before attaching to the fitting on the transom the hose was a little collapsed. I will remedy this and test it out this weekend. Let's hope for some improvement. I appreciate all the help.
 

cr2k

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Mar 19, 2009
Messages
3,730
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Also pull the flame arrestor and have someone pump the throttle while watching for fuel squirting in to the carb. If none you need a carb job as your accelerator pump is not working.
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,848
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Prop is fine for now. The limit switch should click in and out. If it will clean up and work then great, if you have to buy one, buy one.
 

Cohokiller74

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May 1, 2010
Messages
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Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Put new gas in the boat with some octane boost. Went and ran it. No go, still doesn't get above 8mph and won't rev in gear. It will rev up to high rpm if you do it slowly in nuetral. If I quickly pump the throttle I get blowback and spatter from the carburetor. my mechanic buddy says that the carb is leaking air causing the blowback. I did a compression test I got 220 psi +/- 3psi on all cylinders with the gauge I used. Seems a little high but good compression. I will be putting a timing light on it tomorrow. Is there a way I can tell if the timing belt is out of adjustment without tearing the front off the motor? Also where can I get a kit to rebuild or get parts for the solex carb?
 

captmello

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Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,848
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

Carb kit-

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinder/?*******=377593803&gd_grid_id=855&gd_poid=112057&gd_row=3&**********=097783546

It does sound like the carb needs to be gone through.

Have you replaced the points and Condenser? If not, change them out as well. Set the dwell using a dwell meter, then reset your timing.

The compression numbers sound high, but consistent. I wanted you to check the compression because I've seen many people keep trying to fix/tune their engines only to finally find out they have a bad cylinder with low or no compression. Low compression on one or more cylinders can also be a sign of a slipped timing belt. So far so good.:)

Get the carb cleaned up, replace the points and condenser, set the dwell and the timing (dwell adjustment effects the timing, so do that part first), and with any luck you'll be good to go.:cool:

Let us know how it goes or if you have any other questions.
 

crazyinkc

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 6, 2006
Messages
155
Re: 1982 Bayliner Volvo 270

High compression numbers can be an exhaust restriction. A worn cam lobe or a dead rat with nest in the exhaust (long story and a Merc anyway). I would suspect a worn cam,valve adjustment issue or an inaccurate guage first. What you discribe does sound like an exhaust restriction of some kind but I have been wrong before.
 
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