Woodonglass
Supreme Mariner
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2009
- Messages
- 25,929
Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.
My experience 1/2 Baltic Birch is WAY expensive. It typically is sold in 4x6 ft sheets and cost the same or more than a 4x8' sheet of ACX plywood. It is only waterproof if it's rated WBP (exterior). It is EXTREMLY important that the salesman shows you this rating clearly stamped on the sheets. If you want to make "I-Beam" style stringers you could do it for the tops but it would be difficult for the bottoms and get them to conform to the curvature of the hull. The caps would need to be dado'ed and epoxied securely in order for the I-Beam effect to truly be effective. It would also be very difficult to encapsulate them in glass and resin. The CSM and 1708 does not like to conform to small tight corners such as the I-Beam would create. The difference in weight would be very minimal. Possibly 50lbs at the most. Making "Port Holes" in the stringers is also not a good Idea in that boats are NOT houses or buildings and there are a lot of flexing and other type forces being applied to the hull that a house or building never encounter. You should stick with the standard techniques that have been used in the Boat industries for decades and have stood the tests of time. 3/4" stringers encapsulated in multiple layers of CSM and cloth is the way to go. Experience IS the best teacher in this case. Having said ALL of this, Bottom line, It IS your boat and you are free to do with it as you see fit. We're just here to help guide you using what little bit of knowledge we've gained along the way.
My experience 1/2 Baltic Birch is WAY expensive. It typically is sold in 4x6 ft sheets and cost the same or more than a 4x8' sheet of ACX plywood. It is only waterproof if it's rated WBP (exterior). It is EXTREMLY important that the salesman shows you this rating clearly stamped on the sheets. If you want to make "I-Beam" style stringers you could do it for the tops but it would be difficult for the bottoms and get them to conform to the curvature of the hull. The caps would need to be dado'ed and epoxied securely in order for the I-Beam effect to truly be effective. It would also be very difficult to encapsulate them in glass and resin. The CSM and 1708 does not like to conform to small tight corners such as the I-Beam would create. The difference in weight would be very minimal. Possibly 50lbs at the most. Making "Port Holes" in the stringers is also not a good Idea in that boats are NOT houses or buildings and there are a lot of flexing and other type forces being applied to the hull that a house or building never encounter. You should stick with the standard techniques that have been used in the Boat industries for decades and have stood the tests of time. 3/4" stringers encapsulated in multiple layers of CSM and cloth is the way to go. Experience IS the best teacher in this case. Having said ALL of this, Bottom line, It IS your boat and you are free to do with it as you see fit. We're just here to help guide you using what little bit of knowledge we've gained along the way.
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