1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

[AMcCall]

i just acquired a 1982 Johnson 35 hp, model J35ELCND. It is an electric start model set up for remote steering, and I need to convert it to tiller steering. I've looked at several parts diagrams, but am having trouble figuring out exactly what parts I need to make the conversion. I know I need the tiller handle...do I have to replace the whole steering bracket too?<br /><br />Any other suggestions on what I need to consider as far as wiring/switches/etc for the tiller conversion?<br /><br />Also, what other years/models can I use parts from?<br /><br />Thanks...

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Hi AMcCall,<br /> Yes, the steering bracket would need to be replaced - not a quick job, but fairly straightforward. I think I may have the bracket part if you can't find one locally..<br /><br />- Scott

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Thanks, Scott. I might have found a bracket...but it is off of a 1985 25 hp. Think it will fit? I show a different part number, but they look the same from the pictures. If it doesn't work, I'll probably check back with you to see if you have one.<br /><br />I have a couple more questions. I have found an OMC service manual (cheaper than a new one) for a 1981 35 horse - will there be any significant differences between it and the 1982 version?<br /><br />Also, I pulled the carb off to begin cleaning it and noticed that the hole going into the intake manifold is quite a bit smaller than the venturi in the carb. It made me wonder if maybe the intake manifold was off of a 25, although it looks original. I could not find a part number on the manifold to check it. What do you think?

 

[G DANE]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Yes its the right one, but you can only use the top the tiller attaches to. Your transom bracket is different from the 25, but this particular part was common. on some models you will have to swap the pivot shaft with it. The 81 service manual will be fine. On models previous to 85 the 25 and 35 used same manifold 386792-1 superseeded by 396788-1. On models later than 85 the 30 Hp had a manifold with slightly incleased volume adding a little extra power, 395626-1 og 396796-1. Hole is smaller than carb on pre 85 models.

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Got the tiller conversion completed, and it works good. I'm still wondering about the intake manifold, though. Let me explain the problem.<br /><br />I have the motor mounted on a 1542 flat bottom aluminum boat (max hp rating 35 hp). I don't know the exact weight of the boat, but I would estimate the boat and motor combined (with a small amount of gear) weighs 500 pounds.<br /><br />Compression is good (135 and 133), new fuel pump, new spark plugs, and the spark will jump a 1/2" gap with a strong, blue arc. I completely disassembled the carbs and did a thorough carb cleaning (removed core plugs, soaked, blew out all passages, installed carb kit, replaced all fuel lines). I did a link & synch and set the wot timing at 30 degrees.<br /><br />The antiventilation plate is mounted 1/2" above the bottom of the boat. I am currently running a 10 1/8 x 13 Michigan Wheel Vortex Aluminum prop, but am only getting 4740 RPM's at WOT (via tinytach) and 26.5 mph. Service manual says operating range of 5200 - 5800.<br /><br />This is with only me in the boat at 185#. I have tinkered with different trim angles, but this is the best I can get out of it.<br /><br />I can't imagine that the prop pitch is too great for this boat. It seems to me like it should turn the 13 pitch prop easily. I know this is not the best prop, and I do intend to replace it soon (any suggestions...I don't have a prop shop nearby that will let my try different props out).<br /><br />My only thought is that the intake manifold is too small. The part number on my intake manifold is 390655. I can't find this part number in any reference materials, but all of the pictures I see of the intake manifold show the hole to be the same size (or very close) to the size of the carb throat. The diameter of the hole in my intake manifold is probably half of the diameter of the carb throat.<br /><br />I have considered cutting the hole out to the size of the carb throat, but wanted to ask the experts here first.<br /><br />If you don't think the intake manifold is the problem, any other suggestions?<br /><br />I greatly appreciate your time.

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

I thought I might also add...the motor idles great, and has good, hesitation free power up to the WOT rpms...it's just stopping short of reaching the recommended WOT RPM.

 

[G DANE]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

I've only tried one Michegan prop on a 25, and it was slower than with the original OMC aluminium prop. I dont know why, maybe its something with their blade area or rake. I wouldnt choose it.It didnt seem to be cupped. I got 28-30 mph on a 15' glassfiber dighny, with my 81 35HP, boat weighed 600# with motor and I'm 185# myselves too. No tach. Enlarging intake manifold hole wont hurt, I never tried.

 

[thehermit]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Hey AMcCAll,<br />What did the whole tiller conversion cost you? I have a 1981 and a, concidering converting it? Can you zap me the parts list?? THANKS TH

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

I ended up buying the parts on ebay...I got the steering bracket and the tiller handle together for $75 (both used). The conversion was pretty simple after that. If you can buy both together like that, it will be much easier.<br /><br />I also found the parts at several outboard salvage companies (that I found online), but the total cost for the steering bracket and the tiller handle was going to be $200.<br /><br />If you decide to buy the parts separately, check the diagram at ishopmarine.com to get an idea of all of the parts you would need.<br /><br />While I was waiting on the parts, I rigged up a tiller handle and throttle control so I could test the motor. I screwed a piece of 1/2 inch metal conduit onto the side of the steering bracket, and used a piece of 3/16 inch metal rod for the throttle control (I flattened one end and drilled a hole through it to attach to the throttle control gear, and bent the other end 90 degrees so that I could control it with my thumb while holding the throttle handle). It was ugly, but it worked for testing.

 

[thehermit]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

AMc,<br />Your ebay parts were from a 25?<br />My OMC dealer gave me the parts blowup but told me there was no kit and that I would probobly have to pick out all the parts I need and get them a list

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

I didn't get the parts from the 25 (lost the auction)...but found the steering bracket/tiller handle assembly from a 35 a couple of weeks later. However, as GDane states above, I'm pretty sure the parts from a 25 will work.<br /><br />If all else fails, and you can't find something on ebay, call some outboard salvage yards to get the parts...it will be quite a bit cheaper than ordering all of the parts through your dealer.

 

[thehermit]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

looked at the parts blowup again last night. I will start looking for the steering bracket and the tiller handle around the boatyards!<br />How was that steering bracket to change?

 

[thehermit]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

AMc,<br /><br />There is this one look familiar><br /> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1#ebayphotohosting

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

AmMcCall,<br /> Does the intake manifold on your motor have a small, mayby nickel sized hole, plus a small slot running downwards? If so, then that is a manifold off a 20 hp. Is your powerhead original to the motor? Does it have a model number stamped in the freeze plug on the motor block, and does it match the one on the clamp bracket? Might have had a transplant at some point, which would explain the small intake. You are correct that a 35hp should have a hole in the intake about the size of the exit hole on the carb body. However, if you've got the 20hp carb, then it will have a tiny venturi opening inside the throat and simply opening up the intake hole won't do thje trick. Hopefully, if there was some swapping going on, it didn't include the original 35hp carb....<br /><br />- Scott

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Hermit,<br /><br />That tiller handle looks like the one. It is identical to mine. The steering bracket swap is not too difficult, but it takes a little time...You have to remove the whole exaust housing and engine from the steering bracket in order to swap the steering bracket out from the transom bracket. If you have the service manual for your motor, it should diagram how to do it.

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Scott, the intake manifold does have a small hole about the size of a nickel, but there is not a slot. The hole is at the bottom portion of the area that the carb opening covers.<br /><br />The welch plug on the block shows it to be a 35, and the model number and serial number match the clamp bracket. The carb is definitely a 35 carb (only a very slight restriction in the venturi).<br /><br />Since the last post, I put an 11 pitch Michigan vortex prop on the boat, and now it will run 5800 rpm's with a normal load and hit 26.5 mph (via gps).<br /><br />I'm not sure what the recommended WOT is of a 20 hp, but I assume it is less than the 35hp. If that is the case, and if I am supposed to have a larger intake manifold opening, am I risking harm to the motor by running above the recommended WOT rpm's of a 20hp? Should I replace the intake manifold (or just enlarge the hole)?

 

[G DANE]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

Take a look at your spark plugs, after a good wot run. It they are whiteish, it indicates are you are running on the lean side. You can open up the hole in manifold to exactly the size of the carb flange. It will increase your rpm´s. Just be sure you have the 35 carb, and not the 20 with nylon limiter. Plug electrodes should be slightly brow coloured when it has run WOT, as coffee with cream. 5800 RPMS wont hurt a 20 HP, it just deliveres its max horsepower at 1000 rmp lower, due to the intake limiter. 20, 25 and 35 HP powerheads are the same, diff in horsepower is made by different cylinderhead, exhaust pipe, lowerunit with thru hull on 35 HP, intake manifold and carb. I dont rember, but I think spark advance is set higher on 35 HP. Do a search for 25 / 35 Hp difference and read my old and a guy named Nordy's posts. Will explain some.

 

[thehermit]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

AMC,<br />What did you ever do about the electric start on the conversion?<br />PS: won the tiller handle and working on locating a bracket

 

[AMcCall]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

I put a start button and kill switch on the front of the lower cowling, right next to the choke knob. Bought the start button at the local hardware store, although I think you can order one from your OMC dealer. Got the kill switch from my OMC dealer.

 

[thehermit]

Re: 1982 Johnson 35 Tiller Conversion and other questions

AMC<br />Look familiar?<br /> http://cgi.ebay.ca/35-HP-Johnson-Evinrude-Tiller-Handle- <br />TH