1982 Johnson outboard 60 hp 2 cly

racerone

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Possibly overheat?---Possibly water was trapped there and it froze.----Nothing to worry about.----Why did you take the head off ?
 

rodpaulrod

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Possibly overheat?---Possibly water was trapped there and it froze.----Nothing to worry about.----Why did you take the head off ?
I took off the head because i thought the thermostat was bad. Next you ask why did think the thermostat was bad. I thought the thermostat was bad because i replaced the water pump man was it hard to line everything up right the exhaust part. After replacing the water pump. Noticed during idle it stall.
I thought the thermostat was causing a problem.
I will jump back to water pump after i did that Now since i replaced water pump and got everything hooked up and them exhaust ports because it was not done right. long story short pumps more water and i notice that comes out 2 other places in back little above the prop and also another relief hole right behind the prop. The reason i working on is now since replace water pump during idle notice the by time all them ports really start flowing good dang gum idle starts to act up and stalls some time.
Looks like only happens once the water starts pumping out them ports real good. happens ever time when all them water port are dispersing the water good. Like the water having some type of influence on the idle do not know how it doing this. Having That thought i thought i should look at the thermostat which i did and correct my writing " it did not look bad" to me was not stuck open but there where some grit around and might been open just a little. I assume the thermostat is not the problem and since i got this far. I going take the head off this engine. All the bolts came off nice. and cylinder are still i say excellent. I notice it looked like water corrosion in the head because notice gasket a white power came off are was under the gasket all through in the middle.
Maybe head gasket was problem i done on a engine almost exactly like this one before. I think will make better.
i going have to just swing it and maybe and not idle to long i keeps stalling like it was. But other that that good engine.
Going to wait for parts to come in mail they I going put it back together but i do not want to under estimating all things that can go bad might.
 
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saltchuckmatt

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You will want to flatten that head now that it's off. Dead flat surface, 120 sand paper laying on the flat surface and do figure 8 patterns on it until it's shinny everywhere.

Once you get it running you need to check head temp even if it's pumping water correctly. IR gun or check with your hand. Hot to the touch but not scalding.

You might have some internal flow issues.
 

rodpaulrod

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You will want to flatten that head now that it's off. Dead flat surface, 120 sand paper laying on the flat surface and do figure 8 patterns on it until it's shinny everywhere.

Once you get it running you need to check head temp even if it's pumping water correctly. IR gun or check with your hand. Hot to the touch but not scalding.

You might have some internal flow issues.
Ok thanks for the help
 
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yep just to clarify temp is taken at 900rpm at TOP of the head. these models have a nice flat spot for the old thermomelt sticks... now we use IR guns. temp MUST be between 125-152.5f after 5 minutes. on these motors the rubber exhaust seal must be in good shape and not pinched. you will know its good when after its warm water will spray out the upper relief holes when in the water. on the hose it wont if a tiny bit so must be in a bucket. if it doesnt it will run on the verge of overheating and no water. water should not come out when its cold.
 

rodpaulrod

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i got a video of how my water pump is working. But right now got the head downView attachment DSCF0013.JPG. It is a little pitted but not the compression end. Not sure what to do about the pitted part. Yea i could of covered it up by taking out the dark part by using my hand and sand paper, but just fooling myself.
 

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rodpaulrod

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yep just to clarify temp is taken at 900rpm at TOP of the head. these models have a nice flat spot for the old thermomelt sticks... now we use IR guns. temp MUST be between 125-152.5f after 5 minutes. on these motors the rubber exhaust seal must be in good shape and not pinched. you will know its good when after its warm water will spray out the upper relief holes when in the water. on the hose it wont if a tiny bit so must be in a bucket. if it doesnt it will run on the verge of overheating and no water. water should not come out when its cold.

yep just to clarify temp is taken at 900rpm at TOP of the head. these models have a nice flat spot for the old thermomelt sticks... now we use IR guns. temp MUST be between 125-152.5f after 5 minutes. on these motors the rubber exhaust seal must be in good shape and not pinched. you will know its good when after its warm water will spray out the upper relief holes when in the water. on the hose it wont if a tiny bit so must be in a bucket. if it doesnt it will run on the verge of overheating and no water. water should not come out when its cold.
Hi here is a picture of the water coming out of this engine before i took it apart the water pump is good. No need for me to do anything there. One of the exhaust gasket (Middle one) i used was the one in there it was pinched but i put some gasket sealer on it called the right stuff it dries like rubber black that stuff expensive but it is good for certain situation. You can see it is working. This a screen shot of the video of the engine running while at dock. Thinks for reply once i get the head back on i will let know on the temp. By the way i always run this engine in a big bucket of water when i am at home testing.
 

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rodpaulrod

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is it ok to attach the CYLINDER water cover to the head CYLINDER HEAD Before i attach the cylinder head to the engine?
 

rodpaulrod

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i got the cylinder head gasket in last night and i going put in on first then the part on top the to top cover where water circulate most. Should know by end of day about the compression in each cylinder look pretty good and not mut corrosion around the inside.
 

rodpaulrod

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yep just to clarify temp is taken at 900rpm at TOP of the head. these models have a nice flat spot for the old thermomelt sticks... now we use IR guns. temp MUST be between 125-152.5f after 5 minutes. on these motors the rubber exhaust seal must be in good shape and not pinched. you will know its good when after its warm water will spray out the upper relief holes when in the water. on the hose it wont if a tiny bit so must be in a bucket. if it doesn't it will run on the verge of overheating and no water. water should not come out when its cold.
okay i replaced everything and started engine the was compression better than before by about 8 lbs each cylinder . But oh there no water coming out. So I took the cylinder cover off last night. Now i got to put it back together. Just realized got wait till the thermostat opens. I gong take a temperature of it once it starts maybe i can find my thermometer . There a chance my pump went bad while i was working on the top head but that is as slim as nothing. I think i need to not panic and give it time to get to the right temperature for the thermostat to open. LoL i never had a outboard engine with with a good thermostat. I not going to give up, i am almost there in getting it to run a little better.
 

rodpaulrod

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Is compression at 140 + PSI ??
110 psi each cly about not running just turning over a few times. That is a 1982 engine not to get mixed up with a newer type. It is Good. I did tighten up the head bolt again so it might have be a pound better or something.
 
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rodpaulrod

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Compression should be 140 PSI or more !
Oh thanks for the reply. Do you work on these engine this type all the time? What is this compression ratio suppose to affect on this engine. As you are say it should be explain why? Everything should be better you know what i talking about. So just looking for the main reason you say the compression should be 140. The engine runs good it can not be that i use this engine all the time go on 30 miles trip. Yea is it should is what you saying. It should be clean and a lot other stuff your right there. Yea i agree it should be! That it should be clean and everything else should be.
 

racerone

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I have worked on these outboards since about 1968.----Good luck getting this motor sorted out.
 

rodpaulrod

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Seems that the lower unit the impeller has worn out key while i was repairing the top so it was not working.
i going put to my old impeller which i saved, I going put it back in which had a brass pin as a key a little worn impeller but hey should last years not months. Never going use the plastic material key again did last long at all. They should last years. not months.
 

racerone

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???----The plastic drive keys / bits last for 20 years or more.----Your motor is " special " I guess.----And perhaps your motor does not have a 1982 lower unit.----And there may have been 2 different plastic keys.----Some " club fisted " person installed the wrong one ?
 
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