1982 omc 400 ss help please

[alwaysblazn]

I bougt a 1982 beachcraft 17' a few weeks ago and seems like I have been on this forum the majority of my freetime. I just got done replacing the water pump/drive shaft/seals and rings and the boat wont start with the key now. When I first got the boat it was doing the same thing, but that was due to my lack of research on the boat and not having the motor all the way down. Is there a sensor I'm not seeing? When I put it in gear it will engage in forward/reverse and spin freely in neutral. Coincidental if my starter relay went out at the same time because I can get it to crank if I bypass the starter solenoid. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Scott Danforth]

There is no sensor

You have a bad or multiple bad connections

Start by cleaning every connection from the battery to the helm and back

That is about 18 lug type connections, about 40 ring type connections and about 50 various other connections

 

[alwaysblazn]

I'm on it. Thanks for the info!

 

[alwaysblazn]

I can’t find any info on the beachcraft besides a sales broshure. I’m just trying to identify what I have so I know what I’m working on. The only identifying marks I see are the
Capacity
Beachcraft 1982
170 e

 

[Scott Danforth]

I can’t find any info on the beachcraft besides a sales broshure. I’m just trying to identify what I have so I know what I’m working on. The only identifying marks I see are the
Capacity
Beachcraft 1982
170 e

Other than making sure the HIN and paperwork match, you have a boat with an OMC stringer in it

Boat brand means nothing to trouble shooting and fixing your issue.

If you are looking for a manual, it doesn't exist other than the OMC factory manual

 

[kenny nunez]

With a test light and some help have them turn the key while you probe the small yellow/red wire on the boost solenoid. If the light comes on and there is no “click” then the solenoid is the problem. If no light then go to the ignition switch and probe the same color wire, if there is a light then the problem is in the control box neutral safety switch.

 

[kenny nunez]

Just do as AD suggested with the electrical connections first. It does not take much to cause what you are experiencing.

 

[alwaysblazn]

Thanks a bunch. I found a good wiring/solenoid diagram here. Its a 120-140 shop manual. I pulled all the rings and lugs inline and brushed/put no ox. now it turns over, but wont fire. Its not getting gas or not enough. More testing to do!

https://l-36.com/read_pdf.php?page=...And_140_Sterndrive_And_Engine_Workshop_Manual

 

[Scott Danforth]

Service the points. Won't fire if you didn't file the points, set the dwell (with a meter) and set timing

 

[alwaysblazn]

I’ll take a look at the points and make sure I’m getting spark. It was running great before I rebuilt the lower. I guess when their old and nobody took care of em, it can just happen. Thanks again Always appreciated

 

[Scott Danforth]

I’ll take a look at the points and make sure I’m getting spark. It was running great before I rebuilt the lower. I guess when their old and nobody took care of em, it can just happen. Thanks again Always appreciated

As points sit non-used for a period of 3 months or more, they oxidize a bit. That is the downside of points