1982 Seaswirl Lancer open bow 3.8 OMC I/O The saga continues!

[Scott Danforth]

FYI - hydro-mechanical drives were white, full mechanical were silver

your drive color will determine the drive you have.

 

[Frickinfrack]

Scott Danforth Dist is on rear of motor, Yay! Will be replacing the 3.8 with a rebuilt one (made for marine use). Compression is low on 2 cylinders. You stated before that chevy engines were the good ones.Can I assume I have a good one? Wife looked at the sterndrive and says it's white but looks like it was painted over silver. She is taking a pic of the plate and will send to me in a few. Which is more desirable? Will post pics of both this evening. Thanks again for all the info.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the 3.8 is a semi-even firing motor. its OK, its not stellar. I think 145hp. the 3.8 buick was 155hp (better torque curve)

as far as stringers go, there really isnt a "desirable" one. however the mechanical shift is the most simplistic of them.

as 'kogs mentioned, the stringers have issues. from a design stand-point the 3-piece vertical drive shaft is its Achilles heel. they all fail. the ball gears wear way to fast and the tilt mechanism is proof that Rube Goldberg may have worked at OMC. the stringer officially quit production in 1984 with a few in inventory at various boat manufactures lasting to 1986 model year. the big boot attracted muskrats which probably sunk more OMC boats than anything else

the benefits of the drive are that it will tilt up out of the way.

 

[Frickinfrack]

Scott Danforth Model of sterndrive is 983159. Looks like it's a mechanical. Is that good? I would guess so, less to break. Going to order the service manual and tear the engine down as much as I can while waiting for manual to arrive. Stern drive has to come off before I pull the engine, right? I plan on replacing the "boot" it's old and dry and can get on Amazon for under 100 bucks. That just makes sense.

 

[Frickinfrack]

southkogs I have been asked to combine this post with another one that I started a few days ago. Can you do this?

 

[Scott Danforth]

pull shift cable from ESA and out back of boat
disconnect trunion caps on drive
pick up drive and put on cart
pull screws on boot, pull ring, push boot thru hole
undo 4 motor mounts, disconnect fuel hose, disconnect throttle cable, unplug motor, disconnect battery cables
lift motor and intermediate motor out as a unit.

then separate motor from intermediate

get a quote for a rebuild on your motor. may be less than different block.

 

[Frickinfrack]

Scott Danforth I feel really stupid but what is an ESA? (Edit: Nevermind, I decided not to be lazy and googled it) Also is the drive heavy? Like a 2 man job or just 1 big guy?

 

[southkogs]

Also is the drive heavy? Like a 2 man job or just 1 big guy?

Better as a two man job. I can lift it by myself, but without a cradle to easily set it on (which I built) it's a real strain. If you build a stand for the drive, and have a way rock it on and off - one guy can do it easily.

 

[southkogs]

I have been asked to combine this post with another one that I started a few days ago. Can you do this?

Yup. Merged 'em over here for engine/drive stuff. If you start workin' on hull stuff, just start a new topic over the restoration forum where you had the other topic goin'. :thumb:

 

[southkogs]

Model of sterndrive is 983159.

I was about to type that I think that's the part number of the gear case ... but now I feel like I monkeyed that up somewhere before. It might reference the gear ratio of the upper. Either way: it's not really the model number of the stern drive. OMC didn't really work that way.

Your model number is on your engine cover in the photo you posted. 382STMRCNC

Looks like it's a mechanical. Is that good?

Mechanical shift would be the best.

OMC made the shift to full mechanical in 1982. So it's possible you have a leftover hydro-mechanical. It's also possible that you have a collection of stuff making a franken-motor. That's not unusual either.

Nothing to be afraid of ... just gotta' make sure you know which you have.

 

[Frickinfrack]

I'll take lots of pictures this evening and will post. Think I will make a stand while I'm at it. Will need one at some point anyway.

 

[Frickinfrack]

If anyone is still reading on this old post, Had hull tested. Couple patches in the floor and we were given the thumbs up. I did a compression check on the 3.8 (was in the 120's) and was able to get it to fire and idle for a couple minutes (bottle fed) but, to appease the wife, we will replace and rebuild as a spare. I'm headed 945 miles North to get a complete engine with a warranty. It was pulled from a boat the had a damaged hull and was running well when pulled. I decoded the serial numbers on both and the only differences are the old was a 2bbl and new is a 4 (more power, yay!) and the old does not have power steering and the new one is setup for it. Might add power steering at some point but for now will just pull the belt off. Comes with intermediate drive. I'll probably be asking lots of questions before doing the swap. Planning on replacing some of the internals on the stern drive. At least any seals maybe some bearings.Looking like this one will turn into a project, surprise surprise. Done a few cars and trucks, first boat. This should be interesting. All in so far we are well under $3K AND the interior is almost done. Will post pics of that when allowed. I plan on naming her "Bad Idea" But the wife wants to name her "4-Phaques-Sake" (sorry if I broke a rule there, not sure). I'll try to win that battle. I thank everyone in advance for their help.

 

[Frickinfrack]

OK Back from Ohio with the "new" engine. It came with the intermediate drive and has the power steering already there! Will be a few weeks before I can do the swap but am confident it will go kinda smooth. Owner fired it up on the crate. turned over and started right away and idled very smooth. Balls on the end of the output shaft look terrible. Will replace that and will probably tear the stern drive apart to check them as well. Any tips on what NOT to do would be appreciated.

 

[Frickinfrack]

Have the Stern drive off now. ?Steering? cable was a real PITA. Recall Scott Danforth Saying something about being careful with the shift cable and wasn't sure what that one did. Maybe is the shift cable. It goes through the intermediate drive and hooks inside the white box on the back of the motor. Like to meet the guy who designed that and slap him in the head. As everyone has told me the spur gears are pretty worn. Should I tear the whole thing apart and replace all of them? I have a manual on it's way. Am confident that I can rebuild as long as I can find parts. Have not really looked yet. Some help here would be appreciated as well? The engine I bought runs well and is exactly the same but has a 4 BBL vs. the 2 BBL and has power steering. Anyone see any issues there? Seller told me "it was all there" looks to be the truth comparing what is left in boat now. Its the whole thing from the water pump to the spur gear that is exposed when you pull the stern drive. He fired it up on the pallet and let it idle for a minute. Sounded really strong. Compression is 131-134 across the cylinders. Will rebuild quadrajet regardless. Have experience with them. Anything different from truck carb and this one?Want to say thanks also to southkogs for his help as well.

 

[Scott Danforth]

are the ball gears worn.... that is a wearable item and easily replaced in both the intermediate and the upper.

if the gears in the drive are bad.... find a complete drive. as parts are hard to find and no-one has the special tools anymore

kenny nunez can chime in.

 

[southkogs]

Sounds like that was your shift cable. The steering on yours should be tru-course using a worm gear that interacts with the upper gear case.

You need to think about replacing the ball gears when they're 50% worn. Since you're gonna' be in the drive doing other stuff, you may wanna' just do it now.

 

[Frickinfrack]

Scott Danforth and southkogs Thanks for the reply. Ball gears are worn but not terrible. I agree, It's apart so will replace. Ideas on where to get them? Found on a site for $250ish for a set. No idea if that is a good price or not. Anything I should know about replacing them or is it pretty straight forward? Looks to be to me.

 

[Scott Danforth]

amazon had ball gears for about $150 a set with the seals a while back. also check fleabay. many are GLM

 

[Frickinfrack]

I think I found them. These, right? https://www.amazon.com/Ball-Gear-Kit-Stringer-1969-1985/dp/B01LX0ANOL

 

[Redrig]

Yup that's it. There is a full set on eBay right now for 170 shipped , check there

I changed mine for the first time this winter , they are pretty straight forward