1983 OMC tilt motor

[Shane S]

Hello I have a 1983 omc stringer 800 series. The tilt motor went out and I replaced it. It worked fine up and down then put it back together then it doesn’t lift but sounds like it wants too! My question is... is there a spacer that goes on shaft of tilt motor to have more tension on the shaft? Any help would be very appreciated. Ty

 

[southkogs]

Was the hammer coupling replaced in there, or is it missing? You can also make sure you've got a good charge to the battery, your clutch pack is lubed up and the trunions are greased.

Welcome aboard.

 

[RogerBoat]

I have been down that road...new motor..bushings over the years i have rebuilt it 3 times at least. It is the most poorly designed part of the whole outdrive system. The motor is simply underpowered.

As Southkogs mentioned above, first thing to check is to ensure the spring in the hammer coupling is installed correctly to allow the motor to make a quarter turn before it engages the load on the shaft. Then there is the gear case, bearings and bushings They need to be shimmed to ensure no slack or friction. As I recall I had a hard time getting the correct amount of gasket between the cover and the case so as to get proper tollerences inside the gear box, If the tolerance isn't perfect, it will bind the gears inside. Then, the output gear,(on the outside of the gear case) must mesh correctly with the gear on the outdrive. Is there any damage to those parts?

In other words, the electric motor is underpowered...everything must be perfect.

My suggestion is to have someone lift some of the weight off the outdrive as you engage power to the motor. Judging how much weight you must take off might help find where the problem is. In my case, if the boat isn't in the water, I will be lucky if the outdrive will raise 15 degrees and not much more if it is in the water.

What I did was to put the switch near the back of the boat such that if I need to raise the outdrive higher to pull the boat out of the water, I will lasso the outdrive with a rope and lift a few pound off as I engage the motor switch.
Good Luck.

 

[kenny nunez]

When you said it was put back together, does that mean you pulled the worm shaft and tilt clutch out?

 

[Redrig]

I have the opposite problem, mine works TOO good. It raises up relatively fast and it screams when I tap the button down.

I have snapped the motor shaft twice even just by tapping the switch down .I wish there was a way I could slow it to the downside.

is the hammer-blow coupling in place with the spring and everything moving in there freely?

 

[kenny nunez]

The tilt clutch is supposed to allow for the drive coming down too fast and slip. However probably 80% of the tilt clutches I have encountered were not releasing. I used to have a tool that would fit over the small gear and with a 3/4” drive ratchet lift up to break the clutch plates loose. The style you have is held together with a snap ring over a belvllle spring keeping pressure on the plates that are probably rusted together. As you probably already know there always is water in the clutch housing.
The last production stringer drives used a tension bar held down with a set screw through the center of the tilt clutch shaft in place of the Belleville spring.
You can convert to the later style clutch shaft as there are still some NOS parts available, not cheap however.