1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

bakerjw

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
288
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

Imho. Part out the boat to recoup your losses. Luckily you only are in it for $1K. My current project was quite a bit more otherwise it'd be parted out about now.
 

83mulligan

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
687
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

What jbcurt and others are trying to tell you is that it all works together and trying to scab a repair on that boat is not going to work. If the transom is rotten, almost certainly the stringers are too, especially on a bayliner. The stringers and transom transfer the thrust of the motor together.
 

pmjr0987

Seaman
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
71
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

yea i was hoping that maybe somehow somewhere this middle fix would do the trick, and to be honest i feel confident with the bottom because it will transfer forward torque to the stringers, but the top i dont like the idea of the steel bracket, and that means since hte transom will basically be three pieces, all hte stress pushing forward and back will be put on the cap, in between the back seats. thats thin and doesnt seem to have any of the integrity i thought it had when i first thought of this fix.

Looks like i might have to pop a cap and get to work...

I have an engine hoist so this weekend ill be pulling the motor and removing the gunrail. Ill replace the plywood transom, and floor and anything else thats rotted in the floor area. the hull wont be worth anything anyway so since plan B was to part it out anyway and the money was a small investment, i can wait to try this first before parting it out to move on

when i remove the gunrail and screws holding it in, is there anything else holding the top on? what about the vinyl on the sides inside, or the seats, or the dash? i do not want to cut the back two feet off the cap because the cap has a tan paint around it that will be impossible to replicate, as well as all the factory pin striping and decals that id have to replace or remove i dont want to get into that as id like to keep it as original looking as possible
 

mwe-maxxowner

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 20, 2012
Messages
825
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

Restoring a boat is an awful lot of work if it isn't the one you want. If your plan is still to upgrade later, I really think you should just part it out. If the force indeed runs well and you have a good trailer, I think you can come close to making your money back. Only restore this boat if you want to keep it or pass it down the family. If you can see yourself using the heck out of it for a good 5 years or more, go for it!
 

pmjr0987

Seaman
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
71
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

Understandable. Not trying to make my family be in danger here, but there are tried and true ways of doing this other than a full gut out I'm exploring before condemning this boat to the scrap yard.

Thanks to who ever posted about seacast and Nida core. I'm thinking I'm going to try a few gallons of nidacore into the transom as from what I'm reading it's cheaper and made by 3M and i trust their products. Is anyone can give me a heads up where to buy the pourable Nida core that would be great.

This video is exactly what I'd like to do, except the plate on the back will be 1/4" aluminum as that's what I have at the house. Still not sure i will use one at all since my gel coat is not cracked but that's up in the air right now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ie-ZrF3T4sI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

He said he did it two years and he has had zero issues. I can't see how this would not be a good way to get back on the water. Again opinions on this would be great, I am listening lol I'm no long trying to bandaid with brackets
 
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jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,112
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

That vid skips quite a bit of the work required, esp prep work, to correctly use the NidaCore product.

It also doesn't show the dimensions of his transom, but he's only 1/2-2/3 full & needs 2 MORE gals to finish.

As WOG mentioned, it isn't cheap.

Stout transom plate covering cracked & damaged transom glass, isn't a REPAIR, it's a coverup. Sufficient? Long lasting? Won't know until it isn't.

Good to hear he's gotten 2 years, hope he gets many more. And whoever gets the boat after him does too.

How do you plan to get the rotten wood that's between the inner & outer fiberglass skin, out?
 

KnightWolf

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
216
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

Pmjr photo bucket has a great mobile app super easy to upload pics from your phone to photo bucket. Or copy URL and do it right on your phone to the forums.
 

pmjr0987

Seaman
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
71
Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri rotten floor and transom

hey finally got a new power cord for my laptop, so ill try this on my computer see how it goes. the photobucket app and the mobile version of this site i just could not get the link to work as an image...

here is the back view showing how low the motor is mounted, the transom is curved with two sharp edges a few inches out from the motor mount



This picture is the inside, center. The fiberglass seems very solid here, good for a pour in transom in my eyes. One question is, why would there be a tiny aluminum plate on one bolt and not the other? could that be factory? did this guy put this on himself? seems completely pointless, my bracket was going to be a 4 foot long c channel made of heavy grade steel



sides, left and right





top view showing curve. i think a plywood transom replacment is out of the question, there is no conventional way to make plywood bend that sharp that quick without cutting it, or is there a way??!





im going to make an aluminum bracket to support the engine inside and outside for the next month or two so i can at least putts around the water and fish or swim. the wood is dark and damp, but not gone rotten no cracks in the gel coat, just flexes a bit when you put weight on the outdrive when its trimmed up....
 
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