Re: 1984 Bomber Scout Rebuild
I'm trying to decode this layup I found on Fiberglassics.com and hoping someone can help.
With the new core cut and sealed (if necessary), the next step is to apply a binder to the inside surface of the remaining transom skin. Many people will use a resin thickened slightly with colloidal silica or microballoons to create an adhesive with the consistency of mayonnaise and then slather it all over both the skin and the core and then press them together. This is an acceptable procedure.
A better bond will occur if you do it another way.
First wet the inside of the skin with resin, then lay up two layers of 1.5 oz mat to the skin. Then wet out the mating side of the core material and lay it in place.
Repeat this procedure for the opposing surface and complete the sandwich construction.
Use more clamps than you think you need to ensure a good bond. If you can't get clamps in place, drilling holes and using through-bolts with extra large fender washers or battens on both sides will work. If you can align the holes to where future hardware will be, then you can save yourself the trouble of filling those holes later.
Regardless of the mechanics of compressing the sandwich, it must be done evenly, securely, and over the entire area of the transom.
Allow 24 hours for the sandwich to cure, (if you have the time, 48 hours would be better).
After the transom has cured, the only thing left to do is glass over the cut line of the skin you removed. Grind it back on both sides of the cut line until you have a 10:1 taper creating a Vee groove, then, as described in Part One, lay up new layers of fiberglass until the groove is flush and the panel securely glassed to the rest of the boat.
So which one is it?
