1984 chapperel xlc 196 transom replace problem!

[FORREST3]

Hey all..owned this boat (beautiful and enjoyable!) for around 18 years.. I did a TOTAL interior resto TOTAL!..all inside looks like new as original as does outside.. (I own a classic muscle car restoration shop for the last 30 years or so, specializing in 1969-1972 Pontiac GTO convertibles,complete to #1 levels)..I do all the work ( interior,paint,everything except for engine machining work)..anyway..about 4 years ago I forgot to drain the engine for winter and ...well..blew out the water jacket on both sides ( trying to find a bare standard bore early 305 and switch all internals heads etc.. over....well that's another story!.. so few years later me to fix! (stored in covered area) pulled the engine (mercruiser, chevy 305/228 4 barrel, alpha o.d. ) and saw the hell..the transom is toast!.. stripped all the old out and used foam board template..(transom has two sections..full one from side to side is 5/8 thick by 7ft. wide x 3 ft tall. and then the center piece is appr. 2.5 ft. wide by 3 ft. tall fitting between the raised floors from drain hole to top under hull opening covering center section where outdrive is...problem is I cannot put the full/complete 5/8 in place due to interference from the upper hull lower lip and the bottom raised floor where the transom board needs to slide down into on each side..obviously transom was installed before the raised floor/ foam capsule andengine mounts was made..The middle 3/4 is no problem installing as one piece over the 5/8 board of course but I must put in the large 5/8 section first..only way is to put in is in 2 sections without chopping off the upper hull or removing the complete upper/raised floor/engine mount areas..I can split the 5/8 transom board into 2 horizontal or vertical sections and it will go in..if I split in the middle ( straight up from drain hole to top) and the complete 3/4 section would go over that ..I'm not sure what to do..also have to replace engine mount pedestals! Clamping this transom to glue is going to be fun..LOL!and any help/opinions would be GREATLY appreciated... Thanx!... Forrest

 

[KJM]

I cut mine when I did it a few years ago, but I had 2 sheets of plywood that needed to go full width. I just cut each piece so that the cuts didn't meet up. One sheet was cut 1/3 of the way from the left and the other 1/3 from the right. What about if you did that with 2 sheets of 1/4 inch plywood and put a sheet of fiberglass between the two. That should be about the right thickness and probably stronger then one solid piece?

 

[FORREST3]

Thanx.. hoping to keep the cuts minimal..I only need to do "one" cut though on the 5/8 board..I guess I could try to make the cut farther to the left or right of center ( keeping the cut out of the center)..but with the 3/4 going over the center along with some glassing, I was hoping that this would work..The "slots" each side on the bottom can only handle 5/8's max..your idea is a good one.. making the cut away from center opening a better idea?..Probably is? let's see what others say?..I appreciate it!

 

[FORREST3]

Well seems the largest full height section ( using foam board templates) I can put in with clearance is going to just be outside of the keyhole (about 2 inches from side of the opening)..so my choice is going down the middle or just beyond the edge of keyhole..so the larger piece is 47" (covering the hole opening and beyond by 2") and the smaller is 37".also the larger 3/4 middle section covers the seam by several inches too..this is good I guess?.....any thoughts?.. Thanx again!

 

[davedog]

I would cover the hole with 1 piece and the rest with the other. I am restoring a 87 235 XLC right now myself. I would really consider checking those stringers for rot too if the transom was shot.