1984 Johnson J6SLCRM Water Pump Access?

[Vigetius]

Hi all, I'm trying to learn to do my own maintenance on a 1984 Johnson SailMaster 6 hp engine. I'd like to replace the impeller since as it's not been done in the past 2 years at least. I managed to get the lower unit off, but it doesn't look anything at all like the YouTube tutorials I've watched. I'm not even sure how to get to the pump assembly. Thanks for any help anyone can offer!

 

[tphoyt]

I’m not familiar with that model but the extension section that your holding needs removed to get to the pump.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Yes, More bolts to remove the 5 inch extension the water pump will be exposed.

Lots of Internet stuff on finishing that job.

 

[Vic.S]

I have the Evinrude version
Had it since new and changed the pump impeller several times

As the others have said all you have to do now is unbolt the 5" extension, but clean up the drive shaft first so that it slides easily through the bush in the extension.

When reassembling I find it best fit the 5" extension on to the exhaust housing first then refit the gear case.
Remove the spark plugs so that you can easily turn the flywheel to get the splines on the drive shaft to line up with the splines in the crankshaft OR put it in gear and turn the prop.
Lightly grease the splines before assembly and ensure the O ring (#55 in the diagram attached) is in position in the groove below the spline.

( in future do as you did this time, remove the gear case and extension as one unit then separate them after cleaning the drive shaft)

The thing that has caused me most bother with this engine is corrosion around the top water tube grommet squeezing it over the top of the water tube until it cuts off the water flow. It's a power head off job to replace that grommet.
Check that you can get a good water flow up the tube and through the engine from a hose before you reassemble it, if not its probably that top grommet that is the trouble.

PS It's worth replacing the gearcase seals while you have it off. At least the drive shaft seals (#27) and the shift rod seal (O ring #26) while you can get at them.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I have the Evinrude version
Had it since new and changed the pump impeller several times

As the others have said all you have to do now is unbolt the 5" extension, but clean up the drive shaft first so that it slides easily through the bush in the extension.

When reassembling I find it best fit the 5" extension on to the exhaust housing first then refit the gear case.
Remove the spark plugs so that you can easily turn the flywheel to get the splines on the drive shaft to line up with the splines in the crankshaft OR put it in gear and turn the prop.
Lightly grease the splines before assembly and ensure the O ring (#55 in the diagram attached) is in position in the groove below the spline.

( in future do as you did this time, remove the gear case and extension as one unit then separate them after cleaning the drive shaft)

The thing that has caused me most bother with this engine is corrosion around the top water tube grommet squeezing it over the top of the water tube until it cuts off the water flow. It's a power head off job to replace that grommet.
Check that you can get a good water flow up the tube and through the engine from a hose before you reassemble it, if not its probably that top grommet that is the trouble.

PS It's worth replacing the gearcase seals while you have it off. At least the drive shaft seals (#27) and the shift rod seal (O ring #26) while you can get at them.

Vic, your expertise in this thread is very respected.

Matt

View attachment 396471

I agree with all of the above instructions and it's carefully written. I hope nobody is disrespected, but to further clarify make sure not to get any grease on the top of the drive shaft so when you re-install the lower unit it doesn't hydraulically lock.

 

[Vigetius]

Thank you all so much for the help. Got it done today. Had to buy fresh gas and will test run this week. Many thanks to you all!