1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

[trikeman72]

Re: 1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

unfortunatly they are both messed up... there is only 1 thread in the plate if that and the screw is fubar as well...
i have a local guy thatll give me a used one so shouldnt be a biggie to fix.
i was concerned of using a replacement screw wasnt as many reasons as you listed but i decided against it lol
thanks for the tip mac

well ok...... had to move (bought a house) that took up all winter seemingly... finally got boat uncovered and ready to work on it some before i goto nevada first week in july for a week..
thought id get on here and give this another shot...

cant find a breaker plate anywhere or a replacement factory style screw so....

i dont know wether to just drill the hole out in the plate or maybe use a cut short sheetmetal screw or what to get the points to hold a setting....

im pretty sure thats the problem far as starting up goes but idk what to try

i did see a pertronix coil and elect ignition module online for it but thats 140 bones and then i have to take the resister off and more messing with wiring crap... sighs...

hopefully someone has one of these breaker plates i can get so i can get this thing at least started up

thanks for anyone that has a fix or the part i need
bill

 

[bruceb58]

Re: 1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

Maybe just buy a used distributor to get you going
OMC Stern Drive 2 5 Engine 252SCHRCRA Distributor Assy | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-COBRA-2..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item53f8f13730&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item3a7dc4da3c&vxp=mtr
There are many to choose from.

 

[Levinz11]

Re: 1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

I love this thread. Glad your back. Lets get this thing running!

 

[trikeman72]

Re: 1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

I love this thread. Glad your back. Lets get this thing running!

thanks bruce!!!
as much ebaying i do (wife says sickness but i dont see it) i cant believe i didnt think of that...
i was able to pick up a used distributor for 51.00 shipped off ebay... says its for an omc 4cyl 2.5 gm motor 153 ci...so i sure frikin hope its the right one... i bought a breaker plate for 14bux and it came yesterday.... guess what... my memory sucketh :facepalm: omc cobra not same dist plate ... so i have a cool paperweight i spose..
i sent bear a PM about the steering stuff he was going to send me but man i havent been on forum since sept. wife had back surgury.. then i got a house... blah blah busy blah.. i hope he still has it i really need it...
anyways... i do remember that i had it firing great but i couldnt get it to stay sparking due to plate stripped out..
im pretty sure i rebuilt carb last fall (thanks uncle sam for the ptsd so i cant member shat) so i should be good to go now when distrib comes
man i hope so... be nice to hear this thing start and run ive been messin with it for ages... wifey gettin ummm pushy like shes the only one that wants to go boatin lol

i do need to run the hydro lines for the tilt on sterndrive but i only need a couple fittings and some brakeline tubing to do that ..
then im sure ill be back for the wtf moments when thats not hooked up right lol
im gettin this thing runnin this summer well... WE are since i couldnt do it myself

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

Way back you said you remember seeing "magneto ignition" on the ignition switch box. That should have been a clue to you. An I/O is BATTERY IGNITION and the two ignition switched operate opposite from each other. BATTERY IGNITION has a closed circuit between the "B" terminal and "I" terminal on the switch. MAGNETO IGNITION has an OPEN circuit between the "B" and "I" terminals. Since +12 volts from the "B" terminal cannot get to the "I" terminal with a MAGNETO ignition switch, that answers the question why you don't have power to the coil. Stop throwing parts and do the troubleshooting.

The discussion about not being able to pull parts without a book is very inconsiderate. Because you want 80 mm rings is not a good description of what you need. Rings can be cast iron, chrome moly, or chrome, and since they fit in pistons with different ring groove widths and with different end-gap specs you are asking a parts guy to give you something that may not work. Cutting too much off either side of a set of rings makes them no longer a perfect circle so that's bad advice as well. Yes -- I know, you used to do it all the time.

 

[trikeman72]

Re: 1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

The discussion about not being able to pull parts without a book is very inconsiderate. Because you want 80 mm rings is not a good description of what you need. Rings can be cast iron, chrome moly, or chrome, and since they fit in pistons with different ring groove widths and with different end-gap specs you are asking a parts guy to give you something that may not work. Cutting too much off either side of a set of rings makes them no longer a perfect circle so that's bad advice as well. Yes -- I know, you used to do it all the time.

yeah well.... instead of wasting additional time ill just press on....wasted enough trips to parts store for wrong parts bud.. think its the area because they arent gettin paid enough to really care...

oh and BTW i didnt know the difference of battery and magneto .. learned the hard way..
im not "throwing parts" and i have been troubleshooting...
thats how i found out the solenoid was bad so i bypassed it. and how i found out the points screw was bad once i spent a month to figure out the switch was what screwed me up from the start...
it would be helpful for related info not sticking up for autozone employees .. if u are one sorry ... is a fact where i live..

anyone seen bear around lately:??



should have the used coil tomorrow or monday so i can see if itll start. then i can focus on running the hoses for the sterndrive.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: 1984 omc 2.5l ignition/coil problem

lets step back. if you run a wire from the coil + to the battery, then jumper the starter solenoid.... Does it run? if it does, you dont have a coil, points, cap, etc. problem. you have a wiring problem. then disconnect the jumper wire, and go thru the wiring.

I still don't see where you have actually bypassed your suspect wiring to make sure the engine runs. Put the new dizzy in, set the points, make sure you have fuel. Then hotwire the coil and jump the starter. Once you ensure the engine runs then take care of the wiring. You have been simultaneously working on the fuel ignition, wiring, and hydraulics. That's like playing 4 games of Russian roulette and hoping they all fire at same time