1986 225 hp reverted to slow to plane and down to 4600 rpm at WOT (E225txcda)

[cfauvel]

UGHH!!

my new normal operating motor with new prop, is up on plane in about 4-5 seconds, WOT at 5800 rpm at 47MPH

referring to this thread and the fix

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...hp-what-would-make-the-potting-of-a-coil-melt

on 7/28/2017 I was back to normal after replacing the fuel pump diaphragm and fixing a ground on a power pack.....still using my 1993 coils whose potting is gooey.

during the week I replaced all six of my really old coils with brand new CDI coils and plug wires.

Went out today and the motor was really slow to plane (a minute maybe more) and WOT was only 4600 rpm or so.

Changed back to my old plug wires, but made no difference....

I didn't have the old coils to put back on until I got back to shore. I will go out tomorrow to test ....but literally the only two things I changed from last week were the plug wires and coils.

here are the differences between the OHM readings between the secondary post to ground.
NEW
321.8
321.6
316.8
305.6
319.1
320.0

OLD
241.1
248.0
243.0
238.0
241.0
246.1

on July 17th I tested the power packs output voltage and got
"Port side output from power pack are in the 205v DC range.
starboard side output from power packs are in the 195v DC range"

My manual states min output should be 230v, but CDI has the min at 150v (both whilst running)...

If the motor is back to normal tomorrow, then it has to be the coils right? what do I do when one of my antique coils goes bad?

what gives? the new coils shouldn't have been a hinderance.

on 7/7/2017 the charge coil were putting out 292v at idle (port) and 273 v at idle (starboard)...so don't think the stator is bad. 160V each whilst cranking

I checked the magnets under the flywheel, they are still glued and evenly spaced

and again last week it was back to normal.....

GRRRRR

 

[cfauvel]

Update: put back the old coils and normal behaviour was achieved with a new max MPH of 48.2.
up to plane was back to 4-5 seconds and max rpm was back up to around 5800.

So what gives?

NOTE: yesterday the port side head temp gauge (I only have a sensor and it is on port side head) read about 1/4 up from cold. Today it was back to my normal area of right in the middle.

My neighbor, who is was a boat mechanic, but now does outboard parts sales states there could be two things
1 - needs to be re-timed as the ignition parts each have their own resistance which affects timing.
2 - one bad brand new coil.

thoughts?

I think one coil is acting up even though the resistance is within spec.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Check closely the two large black coils on the rear portion of that 35amp stator. They supply approximately 300v AC to the powerpack capacitor, needed to energize the powerpack. Should the stator overheat (and it will eventually) one or both of those large black coils will start to melt down and will be dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead area. Should this coil dripping exist, a voltage drop will exist between the stator and powerpack which will result in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition/spark. A stator in this condition should be replaced regardless of whatever reading you may obtain of it.

 

[cfauvel]

Joe,
Thanks for the reply.
Like I said though, today with old coils back on it jumped on plane and saw my WOT rpm back.

No gooey stuff dripping down from two large coils at the rear.

The last time I checked the voltage of the charge coil of the stator was on 7/7/2017 here are the numbers
Port Side Pin A to Pin B OHMs = 1.07K
Starboard side Pin A to Pin B OHMs = 1,07K

Volts DVA DC
Port side cranking = 160+
Port side at idle (1100) = 292+

Starboard Side cranking = 160+
Starboard side at idle (1100) = 273

Interestingly enough, looking at my previous notes on these tests, on 12/26/2016 I got the following numbers on the same stator
Port side Pin A to Pin B OHMs = 1.03 K
Starboard side Pin A to Pin B OHMs = 1.01K

Volts DVA DC
Port Side cranking = 180+
Starboard side cranking = 180+
I didn't capture the volts at idle at that time.

Still think the stator is going bad? with slightly less volts from the stator and the slightly less resistance of the old coils makes the motor work fine, but as soon as i put the new coils with more resistance the slightly less volts is enough to be erratic?

So not a timing issue with the new coils having higher resistance?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Unfortunately I do not have the book to guide me and naturally (retiring in 1991) I do not remember the test numbers. Hopefully one of the other fellows will jump in here with a comment on your trouble shooting display of numbers as above.

 

[cfauvel]

UPDATE: ended up returning the new coils....since the old coils let the motor run correctly, we'll just run with those until such time I DO need new coils....

 

[jakedaawg]

I am going to send you a pm. sent.