1986 Galaxy Admiral restoring

[Woodonglass]

If you don't do the stringers correctly the plywood won't matter!!!!

 

[HudsonValley_boater]

Ok I'll glue down the stringers with gorilla glue or liquid nail a 1/4" off the hull and then pb fillet the bottom and two layer tab the stringers in with 1708 I'm thinking because of its structural strength, unless csm is better.

 

[52FordF2]

Resin, It is close,
I have or am at 30 gallons of resin. I'll have to check on what I ordered for CSM and 1708.
I'm out of the roll of 1708 I order though. Had to order one of the 12inch rolls to help finish up

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd really recommend that you read and study this....Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms It has all the information you'll need for the tasks you're about to undertake.

 

[HudsonValley_boater]

I have read that article and have really just been debating how i should do it based on what you have there as a guide, and i think i will do two layers of 1708 on the stringers doing 6" and 4" layer from the hull on to the wood, but not go over the top, definitely going to do PB fillets.

Is 1708 really more structurally "sound" than 1708 or is it really just based on the amount of waterproofing properties it has?

Do you guy think it would be a good idea to make the stringers as an I-beam design out of the 3/4" plywood i am going to use or stick with the straight design and then add cleats to screw the deck down?

 

[Woodonglass]

Is 1708 really more structurally "sound" than 1708 or is it really just based on the amount of waterproofing properties it has?

HUH???

 

[HudsonValley_boater]

1708 and CSM are two different types of fiberglass. CSM is a mat of fiberglass while 1708 is a weaves fiberglass cloth with a mat bacling.  What's threal difference between the two and why people use both types and not just one since they are both fiberglass?

 

[HudsonValley_boater]

To keep or not to keep wet foam

I have tore up the deck on my boat and all of the expanding foam in between the stringers is saturated with water. It seems like the foam is still all together and stable so can I keep the existing foam or should I take it out and put in new foam?

 

[GA_Boater]

Old foam will never dry out. It took years to saturate with water, drying will take even longer. Go with new foam, it will be lighter without the water and more effective than reusing the old stuff.

 

[64osby]

Freezing temps and water / ice cause the closed cells to break open. The open cells retain water. As the freezing cycles continue you loose more and more closed cells. The result is foam that is waterlogged adding weight to the hull and foam that will no longer float your boat.

Replace it.

 

[tpenfield]

The reason that the foam is now wet (i.e. holding water) is that the 'closed cells' of the foam have been compromised with age and exposure to the elements, etc. So, it is never going to be any good to you, even if you could get it to dry out.

Best to remove it and pour in new 2-part. You will gain in hull strength and flotation.

 

[HudsonValley_boater]

Ok thanks, i suppose i have to order it from US Composites or someplace like it and have the foam be Coast Guard approved or something?

 

[tpenfield]

Ok thanks, i suppose i have to order it from US Composites or someplace like it and have the foam be Coast Guard approved or something?

Yes, it is known as 2-part closed cell urethane foam and most sources (iBoats, US Composites, etc) will have the USCG approval.

 

[HudsonValley_boater]

Thanks for the help!

 

[HudsonValley_boater]

Spray on truck bedding as deck?

I have looked around for a surface decking that would supplement fiberglass/plywood decking and have come upon the spray on trucknedsing from rhino lining. I have emailed them about marine applications and they say the lining is compatible with fibergerglass. Should I go with it or stick with straight up fiberglass and then gel coat and paint?

 

[Scott Danforth]

on a fishing boat, thats common down here. many of the boats even get designs and logos in them.

 

[Woodonglass]

Some members have used it and reported peeling issues. I guess it's easy enough to patch when it does. In the end it's your boat and your decision.

 

[Woodonglass]

Some members have used it and reported peeling issues. I guess it's easy enough to patch when it does. In the end it's your boat and your decision.

 

[Woodonglass]

Some members have used it and reported peeling issues. I guess it's easy enough to patch when it does. In the end it's your boat and your decision.

 

[harleyman1975]

Most important is preparation. The substrate to be coated needs to be thoroughly sanded with a min 60 grit paper. Some even require an epoxy primer. The spray on liner material comes in many different types Rino and lineX are Hot applications that are a sort of hard cellular almost a foam if you will. I believe they are tintable in any color of your choosing. Next there are 2 part urethane systems like speed liner and raptor liner. these are "cold" applications. These are also tintable but the end product is thinner in mil thickness than the hot applications but still pretty durable. These are also tintable. Then there is the single stage products like herculiner or the aerosol applied stuff that you get at the local box-mart or auto parts store. I do not believe these are tintable. Like most everything else in life top quality oats are going to cost ya...after they been through the horse they are considerably less expensive.