1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

[mlenzi]

I just took my boat out of "exposed" storage and found that it took on water during the winter (cover blew off). There was no water remaining in the boat but it certainly got rained on/in. Anyway, I put in a charged battery and tried to start it up with no luck. When I checked the gas tank, actually siphened it all out, I found about 50% water. Now I am guessing I pumped water into my engine. This was about 4 hours ago.

Q1 - what can I do ASAP to minimize damage?
Q2 - what other problems may I end up experiencing as a result?

Thks, Matt

 

[roscoe]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

At the very least, gonna have to empty out the carb and flush the fuel line.

I would spray some Seafoam Deep Creep, or PowerTune, or RingFree, or a generic fogging oil into the cylinders via the sparkplug holes.

Drop the carb bowls, and spray some into the carb throats while cranking the engine over.

If you can't get any aerosol fogging oil, some light machine oil into the cylinders will help some.

Then get the machine running, sooner better than later, to dry it out.
May have to change the spark plugs.
Damage shouldn't be any worse than that.

 

[john from md]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

After you pull the fuel strainer and fuel bowls, motor the engine while spraying deep creep or wd40 into the intakes. Then get it running as soon as possible and let it run to warm up temp. Make sure the water didn't cause any mold or other growth in your tank.

That should do it.

John

 

[mlenzi]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

Rosco - John - Thanks guys for the help. Few more rookie questions:

1. When you say "fuel bowls" you mean on the 3 gold color 2 inch looking "bowls" on the underside of the carberator correct?

2. How in the heck do I get to the gas tank other than through the gas input hole? I have spent some time trying to figure that out and it is just not coming to me.

3. What if there is mold in the tank? Any products or processes to help that or am I bascially looking at a new tank?

Thanks, Matt

 

[john from md]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

Yes, the fuel bowls are the three gold things. Usually, you can just loosen the center nut that holds them on and the fuel in the bowl will run out. Don't overtorque the nut when tighening as the carb body is alumium. Some carbs have two screws diagonally opposed instead of a center nut. The same process applies in both cases.

As to your tank, as it is an inboard, you need to be cautious. If you are not a mechanic or even a good amateur mechanic, I suggest that you take it to a boat mechanic. The reason for this is that gasoline fumes are more dangerous than the actual liquid.

If you are a good mechanic then I would say siphon the fuel using a fuel siphon and not by mouth. Put an air hose in the tank and let it run for a day or 2 at about 20 PSI to purge the tank of vapors. Once dry, using an strong LEd light and mirror, try to peer into the tank to see if there is any kind of growth. There are biocides that you can put in the tank to kill any stuff that is growing. You can purchase these online or through a boat supply.

The only stuff I am not up on is the stuff that grows in gasohol. I have read stories about it but, as I have surface mount tanks, I don't worry about anything growing in them as I empty them periodically.

I want to again stress that you should leave purging the tank to a professional if you don't have the knowledge and skills to do it. Working around fuel tanks can kill you quickly if you don't know what you are doing.

Regards,

John

 

[mlenzi]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

So when I dropped the carb bowls, they pretty much kicked out pure water - about 2-3 ounces. No fuel. Anyone care to comment? Again I appreciate this help a ton!

 

[wasilvers]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

Having dropped a running outboard off a boat and recently rebuilt one that was sunk, I've had some experience with water in the lines. Siphon the tank and let it dry out. Drain your fuel lines to the engine of all liquid. You need to run the outboard for a while so if you don't have them, get a portable tank lines for your engine (while your other is drying out). Drain your fuel lines on your motor by unhooking them and forcing air thru them. I use the redneck way of blowing it, but can't recommend it. Don't forget about your primer lines. Drain the bowls and blow the gas/water from them. I have removed them in the past, but usually the screw is enough.

I would guess that you put some water in the engine and cylinders. Pull the plugs and crank the engine a few rotations. Put it all back together and start her up. If she ran before, she should run again. I know others hate it, but I prime and crank, then shoot a squirt of carb cleaner (as staring fluid) in each air intake to get her drawing fuel faster- make sure the air plate is wide open though. She may sputter a bit at first, but it will go.

Run the engine till she is warms up. You want the water in the intake to evaporate and be burned up.

Get it started soon though, the longer it sits, the worse off you are. The one I rebuilt is because the prior owner did nothing because he didn't know what to do - rusted a whole cylinder and froze the motor.

Good luck,

Will

 

[mlenzi]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

All of you guys have helped me a lot. THANKS! Can't tell you how much I feel like I have learned/relearned from by VM bug days in the 80s. Now how come I keep wanting/needing to take apart more stuff? Getting to that bottom bowl was a PITA. Can you actually drop down or remove the outboard exterior to get at things that are too remote for tools to reach or is that just asking for trouble? I see lots of screws that appear to lead me in that direction. I think I am going to have to send some pizzas or something soon. Few more ?s.

1. So I emptied the tank, put more gas in (2 gal), and just kept recycleing the clean part of the gas that rose to the top. I had all sorts (4-5 cups) of sledge looking stuff, but I am assuming that was coagulated oil? It was really dirty looking (brown gravy with some rust and apparent dirt). Relatively clean gas is coming out now, but does the rust point towards something real bad?

2. Do I actually need to remove the carb to shoot the fog oil "down the throat"?

3. I am assuming that if I remove the carb that I am pretty much committing to a carb rebuild?

4. While working on emptying the water from the bowls I noticed 2 rogue washers (probably there from past work) and a small 1/2 inch spring. Are there typcially any springs inside the round thing that hangs down in the bowl? The washers do not worry me as much as the spring.

Thanks again, Matt

 

[john from md]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

Matt,

Since you have an inboard tank, the gooey stuff may be the stuff that gasohol causes to form in tanks. If you don't already have one, I suggest that you install a water separating filter in the line going from the tank to engine. You can get one at Walmart for $26. I would also pickup an extra filter canister $6 in case you clog the first one.


You need to remove the intake on the front of the carbs to shoot the fogging oil into the individual intakes. This is the big metal thing on the very front of the engine that has about 8 screws holding it on.

There is no reason to remove the carbs unless you want easier access to the lower one. If that is the case, it is easier to remove all three as a unit. Be carefull and you won't have to replace the gaskets. I usually use red or blue rtv on my gaskets when I reuse them and it works just fine. Just don't overdue it so it doesn't squeeze out on the intake side of the carb.

I believe ( I don't have my book handy) that there is a spring that goes inside the carb body where the main jet screws into. I als believe there is a gasket that sits inside the float bowl where the main jet screws in. The 'nut' that you unscrew to remove the float bowl is actually the main jet and it also has a washer that sits against the float bowl.

Go to www.mercruiserparts.com and drill down through the pages to force carbs. They have a good picture of a carb and intake.


John

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 1988 85hp OB Force - Pumped Water into Engine

BOAT STOVE ALCOHOL!!! The gas line aditives that tout dry-gas etc work somewhat.BSA will absorb it's weight in water.Once you empty the tank use BSA to absorb the rest of the water.
Next question: how did it get in? I had the same problem and realized the hose had delaminated because of ethanol.
I drained the tank then replaced the hoses then added BSA I then changed the water seperating fuel filter twice.
The problem then ,your fuel sender will eventuall rust and fail.

Good luck,J