1988 Evinrude 48 SPL - Refuses to start

[cphealey]

Bought the motor two seasons ago from a retired machinist who rebuilt OMC's as a hobby. Ran perfectly - towards the end of last season it was hesitant to start. This season it will not start. Carbs have been completely removed and cleaned thoroughly, new spark plugs (Tested spark and checked gaps on new plugs, checks out fine). Compression on both cylinders is 110 - battery is fully charged, new fuel, plenty of fuel making it into the carb bowls - just will not start.

Is it possible to have good spark but bad ignition coils/leads? Open to any suggestions - thank you!

 

[racerone]

?---Are you pushing the key in and holding it in while cranking it over ?

 

[cphealey]

Yes I have tried multiple different variations - key in for 5 seconds, then start - hold it for 8 seconds then start (while holding in choke), trying to start without, etc.... throttle in various positions, safety lanyard is in place.....

 

[racerone]

Check the flywheel key.

 

[Crosbyman]

will it sputter at least if you shoot some fuel in the carb face ??

if the key is ok I always try a teaspoon of fuel in the cyl.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

that battery might be charged, but needs 360cca to turn the starter motor fast enough for spark magic to happen. I'd load test it and see what you get. is it old?

 

[cphealey]

-Don't have a flywheel removal tool - even ran to the local auto part place and borrowed theirs but of course the bolts don't fit (the ones that were close were already stripped out the first 1/8 inch like someone else already tried to force them).

-I removed the flywheel nut and can put a thin metal rod into the key notch - it doesn't go down so indicates that the key is in place. when I manually move the flywheel everything moves together and i can feel the movement of the pistons.

-Thought of the battery - just bought a new battery for my Jeep - been on a trickle charger for a week so used that in place of the battery I was using.

-Will not sputter with anything sprayed into the carb face - fuel mix or even out of desperation a quick spray of starter fluid.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

Is the primer actually getting fuel into the carbs? Can just pull the feeder hoses off the top of the carbs to find out while pushing the key in.
Without a DVA adapter and service manual, it hard to say what more you can do. if its got compression and spark at the right time, i'd say its something with the carbs. did you take them off this season and really go through them, paying attention to idle circuits and making sure the float needle and seat is clear and needle isn't sticking? these motors are sensitive to link n synch, so i'd make sure that was spot on as well. take the plugs out after trying to start it. what do they look like? should look fairly wet. if not, you have a clogged carb or a leaking cc gasket or a blockage elsewhere. if it was the fuel pump, you'd surely get it fired up, then would die so cant be that, unless its clogged up.

 

[Crosbyman]

stuck reeds maybe ?? keeping the fuel from entering the crankcase ?? it should have sputtered with a shot of cleaner


have you tried a teaspoon in the cyl test vs spraying in the carb face ??

 

[jakedaawg]

Whoa, let's start at the beginning. Make sure you have muffs or a bucket on.

1. Fuel sample from the hose into a clear jar. New fuel can also be bad so humor us. Looking for phase separation. Fuel should be clear, not milky or separated into layers.

2. Compression test.

3. Spark test with the appropriate open air gap spark tester. I prefer the Steven's instruments model. There are others. Set it to 7/16". Test each lead.

4. Find primer solenoid. Verify red lever is inline with solenoid body.

report back those results. I see you already did compression. Do the open air gap spark check. It's that important. Simply holding a plug to the block tells you nothing.

 

[racerone]

You can not find a sheared key by just removing the nut and poking with a wire !----You can not find a sheared key with a timing light.---You can not find a sheared key by " turning the flywheel and feeling pistons moving "------So with top piston at TDC , throttle at idle , does the timing pointer show around 0 degrees , yes or no ??

 

[cphealey]

Whoa, let's start at the beginning. Make sure you have muffs or a bucket on.

1. Fuel sample from the hose into a clear jar. New fuel can also be bad so humor us. Looking for phase separation. Fuel should be clear, not milky or separated into layers. Clear not separated into layers

2. Compression test. 110 and 110

3. Spark test with the appropriate open air gap spark tester. I prefer the Steven's instruments model. There are others. Set it to 7/16". Test each lead. I used an in line ignition tester and it indicated a fuel issue. Will have to look around the local stores for the tester you mention.

4. Find primer solenoid. Verify red lever is inline with solenoid body. In line with the solenoid body.

report back those results. I see you already did compression. Do the open air gap spark check. It's that important. Simply holding a plug to the block tells you nothing.

I also put teaspoon of fuel into the top cylinder and didn't get any action... always have muff's off

 

[oldboat1]

Get an oem flywheel key and use that. Clean the tapers with some acetone or similar, and torque the flywheel to spec (probably 105 ft lbs, but check).

 

[cphealey]

I've ordered flywheel keys and a flywheel puller - should arrive this weekend - thank you everyone for the suggestions !

 

[jakedaawg]

oldboat1 isnt it you that post the picture of the spark tester? If so maybe you can place it here?

 

[oldboat1]

guess maybe I could do that.

 

[cphealey]

Found a comparable one on amazon.... thank you!

 

[cphealey]

An update:

-Pulled the flywheel and no issue with the key.
-Gas is flowing into the carb through the top when choked
-Spark tester arrived and spark is good

The issue is the throttle - when I move the throttle arm in the control box there is very little movement on the throttle on the outboard. I can manually open the throttle and it starts without a problem. Next is to see if the throttle cable is bad or the plastic pieces inside the control have worn.

 

[oldboat1]

If it is the older style cable, the screws clamping the inner wire (really, the cable) may be loose -- cable slipping. Or the cable has come loose from the clamp at the motor.

Are you finding 7/16" spark?

 

[cphealey]

Yes 7/16 spark. The cable isn't the older style - when I open the control I can push the mechanism that moves the throttle cable so that the throttle moves properly on the engine - I'm going to try to force some oil through the cables tomorrow and then check the plastic fitting to see if there that's slipping.