Perhaps you have a throttle cable that has poor connection inside the ends
When checking the TDC you just verify that the flywheel key is not shared and that the timing plate is correct adjusted to set the timing at WOT.
The TDC is fixed as the grove in the crank shaft and the grove in the flywheel is a fixed point.
You set the static timing by runing the starter if you have the Prestolit ignition system.
Your 1988 85Hp has the prestolite system.
Static 28 dgr ends up with about 30-32 dgr dynamic.
32 or 30 dgr at WOT does not matter, the performance is not notable.
Usually the timing do not change if you do not mess with it (change triggerplate etc).
Checking for TDC just shows the flywheel key's not sheared.
The flywheel nut's held on with 85-90# of torque and the key can shear a little.
But the timing can't change unless you move the trigger.
The linkage can come loose/break and change things.
You check the speed with the speedo or a GPS?
The pitot tube(on the back of the boat) can lift a little and give the wrong reading.
1988 Force (US Marine) used Prestolite ignition system and when Mercury (Brunswick) took over in I beleave 1989-1990 they started to use parts from Mercury engines, but that was in 1990-1991.
1990-1991 engines can be equipped with either Prestolie or Thunderbolt system.
Prestolite system has three ignition coils and two CDI boxes for a 3 cylinder engine and four ign. coils and two CDI boxes for a 4 cylinder engine.
In the begining the CDI boxes were black and later they were blue.
Aftermarket boxes from CDI Electronics are blue.
Thunderbolt system has the same numbers of ign. coils as numbers of cylinders BUT just one CDI box and this box is black and lager then the Prestolite typ.
I am pretty sure you engine has the Prestolite system.
Perhaps you have a throttle cable that has poor connection inside the ends
If you did the link and sync correct earlier it has not change.
Unhook the throttle and shift cable, shift into forward gear, advance the throttle to WOT and check the static timing by running the starter.
If the timing ends up at about 28dgr the timing is right.
Check the butterflies in the carbs.
If they are horizontal or almost horizontal then you have to adjust the throttle remote cable as it do not have enough stroke.
The throttle remote cable should have a lager/longer connector which has a spring inside.
You have to preload it when adjusting.
It should have a preload with about 1/4 inch when you hook it up on the ball.
The purpose of this is to ensure that the shifter has done it´s whole stroke before the throttle starts to move.
Dependig what remote control you have there is possibility to adjust the cable in the remote control.
They made 3 different cable ends.
The shortest one was for the shift cable.
The others were for the throttle.
You might not have the one Nordin described, both have 1 spring inside the other
has 2 barrels, both have springs.
One that Nordin describes wasn't used on all outboards.
Post a pic of the cable ends??
The pre-load shouldn't be too much.
It sounds like he has the single barrel connectors.
1 short, 1 long.
Adjust so it's a tiny bit short and pull it over the ball.
ALL 3 connectors have a spring in the end.
The kind with 2 barrels will have 2 springs.
Heres what I have. I used the old connectors when i bought new cables. One short one long like Jerry said. I had some slack in the throttle cable and was not getting full travel on the timing tower and the cam. I believe I have it tight enough now. I left the barrel nut a little short and had to tug on it to get it onto the ball stud. Which is easier said than done.
Also took the control box off and adjusted the throttle cable connector so i had to pull it tight into the arm on the control box. But not too tight. If I adjusted it too tight it created too much preload and made it difficult to keep it at wide open throttle. It has a tension screw to help with this but i found a happy medium between the two. Just enough preload and just enough tension so it isnt too hard to push the handle forward. So just maybe a 1/16" - 1/8" shy of the hole on the arm. The gear shift cable connector seemed ok with very minimal slack.
I am not sure how short i adjusted the throttle cable connector on the ball link at the motor. I just kept adjusting and connecting and testing until i felt there wasnt too much preload and removed all the slack. There wasnt much to begin with. I think I only had to spin it one revolution so it was close. I believe the control box adjustment helped as well.
Just have to wait til the wind stops so i can test again on the water. Thanks for the help guys. I am learning as I go and your input always is appreciated whether you realize it or not.
Shift adjustment:
Shifter in N (wiggle the handle)
Lower unit in N (spin prop)
Then adjust the connector so it slides over the stud.
No preload.
Shift adjustment:
Shifter in N (wiggle the handle)
Lower unit in N (spin prop)
Then adjust the connector so it slides over the stud.
No preload.