1988 Force 125 questions

[ahickman]

Lots of questions regarding an 1988 (model 1251x8c) Force outboard on an 88 Bayliner Capri I just brought home. Yes, I have googled and searched this form for answers first.

1. Trim/Tilt issue: In addition to the trim/tilt switch being flaky, I noticed that the engine trim/tilt does not work. When I released the strap that was securing the engine in the up position, I watched it slowly lower (10 seconds to hit bottom) and assume the seals on the valves are shot. I hit the trim button to see if it would raise and heard the pump run, but no movement. Opened the filler plug on the valve body and could see a bit of clear fluid (not red). Not sure that it is full, however.

Question: How do I best drain the fluid from the pump and what is the proper refill method? Should I use non-detergent 30W motor oil, or move to ATF for this model?

2. Water cooling intake: Am I correct in that the water intake for cooling are the two mesh/vents on the very bottom of the lower unit. They are located on either side of the prop shaft. Just use muffs to properly supply water when testing engine, or can I use a big barrel to sit the prop in. Where is/are the water exit points? Want to make sure I don't have clogged passages or a failed water pump.

3. What fuel mixture is best for this engine? I would like to set up a remote tank until I can get the fuel cell drained and cleaned out. No telling how long the fuel in it has sat.

4. Lower unit gear oil. Not at all sure where to check/fill the existing fluid. Also don't know what fluid I should use to replace after draining.

Any suggestions or pointers would be much appreciated. I am new to this boat and just getting back into the water after 20 years of living inland.

Aaron

 

[SkiDad]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

I just got a boat this summer too - but not new to boating. My Dad has had an 88 for about 20 years and we had others before that.

1 - my Dad's 88 does the same thing - not quite as fast - a very common issue with these. My '85 bleeds down real slow - like maybe an hour - but trim works great. I think there is someone on here that will rebuild that for you. Not sure on what to put in it.

2 - yes that is correct - muffs work but don't fit that well - if you use them it should work for short periods of time - the pee holes just spit a little on the hose - i use a tub - but make sure you let the water overflow so it doesn't get too much crap back into your engine. Water comes out the 2 holes about 1/3 down the back and also out the exhaust snout above the prop

3 - 50:1 - use good oil, like Mercury Quicksilver Oil

4 - the drain is at the bottom - the fill and vent are at the top on the right side
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/gear-...w-p-803.html?gclid=CNjzh7mIobECFQZtKgodd1NrDg
you drain the old oil out the bottom - but the screw back in - then use the fill till it comes out the vent - then close them all.

 

[ahickman]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

Many thanks!

 

[ahickman]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

Made a little progress today on several items.

1. wired up my tilt/trim motor and made sure the oil level was full. Ran it forward/reverse, but no response on any of the pumps. I assume this means the bottom of the pump needs to be removed?

2. Got the bildge pump to work (old fuses).

3. Ran a remote tank to ensure I am getting good fuel. Still need to drain the tank.

4. Set the lower unit in a large tub full of water and cranked her up. I got NO water from the pee-holes, but did get a fair amount of air pressure coming from it. Does this mean my water pump is not working? Where exactly is the water pump on this unit?

 

[foodfisher]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

The t/t sounds shot. Maybe RRitt will advise. The bucket isn't big enough! Submerge to the ventilation/cavitation plate, deeper is better. In the other post, the idle adjusting screw you're tweeking is on the bottom of the timing tower, right? Edit: By not big enough I meant, when the impeller starts moving the water it will run out of water before it can return it to the bucket.

 

[ahickman]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

I read a posting that discussed removal of the T/T. It recommends removing the unit from the transom before breaking it down. Is this correct? I assume that the four fluid lines should be loosed before doing so?

With regard to the bucket size and water intake, I thought the intake ports were lower (midline to the propeller) and not up in the exhaust vent?

 

[SkiDad]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

they are on the side where you said. I wouldn't run it more than 30 seconds if you don't get any water out - you could overheat your engine. You should be getting water in about 15 secs max. Also allot coming out the exhaust snout.

changing the water pump requires you to take off the lower unit - it's at the bottom of the drive shaft - takes only an hour or 2 to do but you might want a helper and a vice to hold the unit while working - i did mine when i got it - it's about 80-100 bucks for the water pump kit or about 40 for the impeller kit (with gasket)

 

[ahickman]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

Can you send a link to the vendor you purchased yours from?

 

[lasso]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

The T/T on my 88 125, would raise then instantly drift all the way back down. Removed the pump and motor assy. Replaced the pump with one from Caltric (found on e-bay). Reinstalled, she works perfect now.

 

[SkiDad]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

If you want to replace the entire water pump kit the part number is FK1069

 

[ahickman]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

lasso, from the looks of it, pulling the pump off is a straight forward process. Is that correct? Anything to watch out for? Below is a picture of the pump/motor model I have. Is yours identical?

 

[foodfisher]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

More bad news. Those rust rings around the motor. Better look at the internals.

 

[lasso]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

Yes sir, that is the same pump I've got. Its a pretty straightforward job. Nothing major. Didnt pull my motor to remove the unit either. Main thing is to take your time and dont get in a hurry. I agree with foodfisher, though. Remove the motor, and have it checked. You can carry it to pretty much any starter/alternator shop for rebuild. When i put mine back together, used a little silicone along with the o-rings, sealing the motor to the reservoir housing.

 

[ahickman]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

Thanks Lasso. I called Catric but they didn't have a pump only. You don't happen to have a part number and price for that pump, do you? Found one on ebay for $145 but that is a bit much. Did you consider rebuilding it?

 

[SweeperForce]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

There is a great video on YouTube. Yours may be a bit different but this should help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-uzQi7IgwU

they are on the side where you said. I wouldn't run it more than 30 seconds if you don't get any water out - you could overheat your engine. You should be getting water in about 15 secs max. Also allot coming out the exhaust snout.

changing the water pump requires you to take off the lower unit - it's at the bottom of the drive shaft - takes only an hour or 2 to do but you might want a helper and a vice to hold the unit while working - i did mine when i got it - it's about 80-100 bucks for the water pump kit or about 40 for the impeller kit (with gasket)

 

[lasso]

Re: 1988 Force 125 questions

$145 is what i gave for mine, on e-bay through the Caltric store. Mine was missing several parts. It can be rebuilt, if you have a hydraulic shop anywhere near by they can probably do it. Operates off a system of check balls on the inside. When the motor is engaged, it causes the fluid to move thru different ports. Opened and closed by fluid force on the different check balls. Its been a while since i tore one down and honestly dont remember how many checks is in it.