1988 Force 85hp Top end rpm loss troubleshooting help.

[DunbarLtd]

Stator test good? but can still be bad
The trigger leads, make sure nothing is grounding out??
The grounds on the panel holding the packs/coils.
Remove and clean the area's grounding the packs/coils.
The tach can cause spark drop. Try unhooking and see if that helps?
The flywheel magnets, I say magnets because there are 2-3 in the older Prestolite.
One around the perimeter and 1-2 on the center.
Make sure they are all glued in place.

The only real test for a coil is to swap it with a known good one.
The packs also really don't have a good test other than switching it

The plug wires. Run after dark and see if the wires are shorting out?

Alright all good ideas. Thanks. See what I can find...

 

[DunbarLtd]

One of the things mentioned was timing. One little detail i didnt mention was when i had the timing light on the block pointer I did see the flywheel mark lining up with it most of the time when it flashed.

Every once and a while I would notice the flywheel mark popped up to the LEFT of the block timing mark (couple degrees maybe).

This all while cranking the engine over with full battery. Maybe that is normal? Maybe not. Maybe not a big deal???

So I did some digging around the net and found a video of a guy "testing for faulty trigger". From what i understand the #1 cylinder should not be firing at any point other than at the timing mark on the block. In my case 28 degrees btdc.

Heres the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-hBeGdE6oE

My only question is he says he found TDC (not btdc) on each cylinder and made a mark on the flywheel.

So if I set the timing to 28 degrees btdc and i want to do the same test and index the flywheel do i find tdc and mark the flywheel there on cylinder #2 and #3?

Doesnt make sense that #1 would fire 28 degrees btdc but #2 and #3 would fire on tdc. This is what is confusing about that video. They are a marine shop so i assume they know what they are doing. Of course many will disagree with that LOL

Anyone have any idea how I can do this test properly? Like I said Ive checked output (DVA) voltages coming from trigger (connectors removed) and I read close to 1v, which the min. is .3v. It said to move the throttle to wot and then back to neutral while cranking and i did that and did not notice any drop in voltage.

BUT...like Jerry said it can show correct voltage yet still be bad. This got me thinking how could that be??? Well in the video they also had correct voltages, yet the trigger was not firing correctly.

I would like to do this test with a timing light to actually see where all the cylinders are firing.

Hoping someone may be able to clarify how to mark the flywheel for this test. Thanks!

 

[Jiggz]

There are 3 cylinders and most likely the firing order is 1-3-2 although the 75 and 90 does the 1-2-3 order. Anyways, you can verify this with a simple test with the screw drive inserted in each cylinder while you manually rotate the flywheel.

With 3 cylinders, there is a 120 degree separation for each firing. At TDC, #1 fires, then after 120 degrees, #3 (or #2 depending on firing order) fires and lastly, at 240 degrees, #2 fires (or #3 depending on firing order).

So to start with you will need to make two markings for the #2 and #3 firings on the flywheel starting from the TDC going left or clockwise if looking on the top of the flywheel. At 120 degrees and 240 degrees. You can just use white chalk to mark this.

Since #1 is advanced or timed to 28 BTDC, you will now need to mark 28 BTDC also for #2 and #3 cylinders. To do this, you just need to measure the distance from #1 TDC to the #1 BTDC markings which is on the left. And then transfer this measurement with #2 and #3, to the left.

Go ahead and test and if you have the timing light on #2 then it should shine on the #2 marking on the flywheel and the same should be true with #3. Note, to differentiate the two new markings, you might want to write in chalk "2" or "3" or use small white tape (or masking tape) to label it.

 

[DunbarLtd]

There are 3 cylinders and most likely the firing order is 1-3-2 although the 75 and 90 does the 1-2-3 order. Anyways, you can verify this with a simple test with the screw drive inserted in each cylinder while you manually rotate the flywheel.

With 3 cylinders, there is a 120 degree separation for each firing. At TDC, #1 fires, then after 120 degrees, #3 (or #2 depending on firing order) fires and lastly, at 240 degrees, #2 fires (or #3 depending on firing order).

So to start with you will need to make two markings for the #2 and #3 firings on the flywheel starting from the TDC going left or clockwise if looking on the top of the flywheel. At 120 degrees and 240 degrees. You can just use white chalk to mark this.

Since #1 is advanced or timed to 28 BTDC, you will now need to mark 28 BTDC also for #2 and #3 cylinders. To do this, you just need to measure the distance from #1 TDC to the #1 BTDC markings which is on the left. And then transfer this measurement with #2 and #3, to the left.

Go ahead and test and if you have the timing light on #2 then it should shine on the #2 marking on the flywheel and the same should be true with #3. Note, to differentiate the two new markings, you might want to write in chalk "2" or "3" or use small white tape (or masking tape) to label it.

I suppose i can count teeth as well. Then mark #2? Also i have a manual and its firing order 1,2,3. Thanks for the explanation. See what comes up when doing the test. Hoping to go out tomorrow for a few hours.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Remember the timing is done at wide open throttle.

Your motors running 4000+ rpm's and you say runs good.
I think your chasing goblins and should try a different prop or even a tach?

 

[DunbarLtd]

Remember the timing is done at wide open throttle.

Your motors running 4000+ rpm's and you say runs good.
I think your chasing goblins and should try a different prop or even a tach?

Yes I did the timing procedure by the book.

I took it out today and tried the timing light test and all 3 cylinders were firing as they should. I did not see one instance of another number popping up while shining the light on the flywheel marks i made. I did each cylinder while it was running in neutral.

I guess Ill assume i dont have any issues then and try a new prop.

But ill tell you what. This dang motor did the same thing my first run today. I ran for about 15 minutes up the lake. Got her up to about 32 mph running @ 4200 rpm....stopped for literally a minute to mess with something in the boat and let it idle, then when i got back up to speed i lost 500 rpm and only did 30mph tops....I have no idea what the heck is going on. But I guess ill try a new prop and be done with this thing.

Only other thing i noticed is the thing smokes like crazy when idling. Running Quicksilver Premium synthetic 50:1 with some startron and quick kleen added. Mixture screws 1 1/8" turn out.


But it starts and idles fine, yet seems rough to me but im not sure if thats just how these things idle or not. Gets on plane. Runs around 4k without stumbling. So I guess you may be right Jerry and I will try a new prop and move on with my life.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

['88 Crew]

But it starts and idles fine, yet seems rough to me but im not sure if thats just how these things idle or not. Gets on plane. Runs around 4k without stumbling. So I guess you may be right Jerry and I will try a new prop and move on with my life.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Dunbar, I found your post, which is awesome btw, and was intrigued since my boat has a very similar issue. I have an 88 Force 125 and I recently changed the prop from the standard 13.25" 17p prop to a legacy model with same dimensions since I hit a rock and the old prop got bent. Long story short, mine does not have the same skipping characteristic, but it does seem that I can only max out at 30-32 and 4400 rpm. This might be acceptable but I am not sure. It seemed to go slightly faster and quicker with previous prop. I have not done the extensive work that you have, but I think I found a few tests in your work here that I will run myself and see if I can't solve my problem. Thank you again Jerry! But the main reason I'm coming back to this is because the boat was well maintained and there is evidence of previous maintenance done to this engine. I have not verified, but assume the timing is correct because it runs great, and has run great after the new prop, albeit slightly slower. I have not verified main seals yet, or the fuel recycle aspect of it, but I have verified a complete rebuild of lower unit, fuel pump rebuild, spark, compression, seals and proper carb tuning based on the sticky notes, carb rebuild, reeds, exhaust boot rebuild, water pump replacement (but have evidence shells/sand from freshwater may have gotten in, plan to rebuild again during winter). Exhaust snout replacement, complete fuel line overhaul, new fresh fuel, I bought a tinytach and increased the idle to about 700-800 rpms and everything works well as far as I can tell. I have a few questions after reading so much:..

1) what additives do you have in your fuel? Why? I run straight gasoline from the local station, with the correct mix of oil and have never had problems. I have also used the gas from the official marina with I believe low ethanol? IDK, but it seemed to run the exact same. Can someone explain the thought process and whether I should change my fueling to help a 31 y/o engine out? Or possibly additives? I have seen a mixture of opinions regarding seafoam and I'm wary of it for now until someone with more experience tells me otherwise. This engine has only been run in freshwater and for that I thank the previous owners.

2) while replacing the exhaust boot, I removed the middle leg cover. In the process, and I believe slightly tore that lower thick gasket. There is now a slow seep of water I believe that enters the bottom of the middle leg. Would this cause any problems? Should I definitely replace this or would it be fine? I can't think of why it would really harm the engine but I guess that it wasn't designed that way so I should fix it regardless. Again, please explain if you have more experience.

3) could we have the same prop? Could it be the manufacturer that is producing faulty props? I read here that Jerry said a 17p stainless equals about a 15p aluminum? Can anyone explain further? I didn't think the original was a stainless, so I tried to go with a matching 17p, but it turns out to be 19p? With this setup, it also seems to take a little longer to get on plane, I'm not sure if this is congruent with how the pitch works. Could this also be due to the sluggishness of the engine at 4300 rpm? I also can only get up to about 20-23 mph while towing? Does this seem remotely correct? I run only a couple people at a time and it seemed better before all this maintenance and changes. Again any reply is appreciated.

4) I plan on doing the fuel starter test, spraying around the engine, but I am a little confused on where the main areas to spray would be. I guess everywhere other than directly into the carbs? The engine has backfired once or twice, the first being the loudest in the driveway after being an idiot and flooding the engine and then cranking it by mistake. I have always almost experienced a small backfire when I choke the engine and start it up. It then coughs out always and then I turn it over again without the choke and it starts right up to about 1000-1100 rpm. This leads into my next question:

I have not actually set the seats of the carb pins in,which again I plan on doing in the driveway this week, but I have them set to the original spec which has been good enough so far. Could this be the problem why it's not reaching above 4300 rpm? Would the new prop affect this even though the rest of the carbs are set correctly?

5) also after a few hours of riding around I have experienced that the engine sort of boggs down and does not like to idle well anymore. Going from 700-800 in gear (1100 in nuetral) to about 600-650 in gear (about 800-900 in nuetral). Could this be due to the water in the lower leg? The carb pins not fine tuned? The new prop? The backfire long ago? I know I posted about this earlier, but reading your post brought back many ideas and things that had been forgotten about running characteristics and previous maintenance.

I was also thinking that this could be due to old fuel lines for the regen system? Or the fuel recovery if you want to call it that. Do you think this would cause the behavioral issues I am seeing?

I also very much need to drain the fuel/water separator that is installed. I always forget to check that... Talking about check valves, I do not have one-which sometimes causes problems when priming engine again after a while at the sandbar. I also do not have an in-line filter since all fuel lines are new and fuel filter/separator is new as well, in addition to fuel pump clean and rebuild. I guess I should install these items?

I also cannot reason why the engine seems to have a high pitch whine at certain rpms, which I think is air caught in the carbs. But im not sure at all. I cannot hear this when I am at certain throttle positions, nor can I hear it when I stare at it straight on, or walk back to it. But sitting in the captains seat with one ear turned back... I hear it every time and it seems to get worse as the idle slows down with usage after 5 hrs.

It also seems that at idle, it almost skips one inconsistently after our normal day 4-5 hours on the water while waiting for a boat ramp. It does not happen when first started and I have taken this to be a characteristic of the engine. But I believe that this is caused by the sluggishness at 800-900 in nuetral, vs a faulty plug or wiring or timing. At any other throttle position, the boat seams fine. Is there danger in running it in high neutral while I wait at the ramp?

The engine does shake a bit, like a car engine not bolted down. But it does not really ever feel or sound like a complete backfire, not sure about misfire since it's generally hard to tell, especially since I have checked the sparks in-line a couple times with new plugs. I used the BUHX plugs without a problem. But had the option of the others mentioned. Maybe I should try an inline spark test again while I'm on the water? IDK it seems unnecessary.

Well thank you for all your insight and help. The final question: did a 15p prop fox your problem!? Have you found any other solution so far? I'm debating how deep to go into this as I'm trying to take my family out this weekend, and don't want to start major surgery on it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! But I would like to know if any of my "symptoms" are a cause for concern or whether I can just follow your path and run it without issues. It runs fine now and I personally have not had problems other than these odd characteristics that I originally deemed part of the engine... Until I saw yours having literally all the same problems...

Thanks again for your help,
Dan

 

[jerryjerry05]

First you kinda hijacked his thread, you asked a bunch of questions that
you could have asked on your own post.

#1NO Seafoam or additives if you use the boat regularly.
An old motor needs nothing different than the new.
The more crap you add the more oil you'll need.

#2 The water leak is no big deal, just remove the cover and silicone the bad spots.

#3 the stainless is way heavier and doesn't flex like the alum and needs more power
to turn than the alum. The 19p A is easier to turn than the 19pSS
A 19 is harder to turn and takes more power. It might get you a bit faster but you loose rpm's and use more fuel.

#4 you right anywhere but in the carb. The stbd. side where the packs are is the intake side where the port covers are
and the fuel pump.
One tiny backfire can blow the port cover gaskets.

#5 Sounds like it's getting hot?? Test the alarm. Key on. Ground the orange lead on the head.
The alarm should sound off. Pull the thermostat. Test it.

#6 The recirc system if clogged can cause poor running usually at idle.
Bad reeds can do the same thing and contribute to poor performance at all speeds.
Install a filter between the carb and the pump. Fram G2 G3 G12

At idle or low speeds lots of outboards shake.
Might be the motors sucking air and missing???

 

[w2much]

As long as I kept reading I thought to comment on something you mentioned way earlier. You said or I percieved that you said you were starting with out the choke. Also later on that there was excessive smoke . Running super rich ? Did you ever acheive the RPMs you expected, or get a new prop ? . If so you owe the readers a reply, that was one long post. Your answer will also help those who helped you.

 

[DunbarLtd]

I have an update. I took the boat out about a week ago after doing some repairs on the lower unit.

This was the 3rd time after the repair I ran it. And it started fine and ran 32mph most the day @ about 4200rpm. I thought I fixed the problem and chalked it up to maybe a gear issue. I had stripped out a forward gear and rebuilt the lower unit and had high hopes I would see more speed and power but that didnt happen. But the lower unit is fixed and running properly now so at least thats no longer an issue and Im back on the water.

But I still experienced that nagging intermittent power loss issue....

The only thing I noticed was one thing. First of all I only use this boat for fishing. So I run to a spot, shut it off and fish for a while. Then rinse and repeat.

Well that day the high temp was almost a 100F. I got there at 5:30am. I must had ran about maybe 5-6 runs before it hit high noon and it started to get hot. So I ran to one last spot and then I was heading home for the day.

But heres the thing.

Normally when I stop to fish I would shut off the motor for a good hour or more. But on my last run to my last spot for the day I didnt stay too long cause it just got too hot so I fished for only about 10 minutes and after I got up on plane....it happened....loss of power AGAIN?!?!?!

for whatever reason I can not understand I again did not get full speed out of it and it dropped to 30mph tops. I stopped the motor and checked the head temp and it was around 115F which is acceptable so i know it wasnt overheating. I did notice on that last restart it didnt want to start right away. I had to crank it a bit then it ran fine.

I am not sure if stopping for a short time had anything to do with the problem. The only other thing I can think is that it was really hot outside and maybe that was affecting the way it ran. I just cant find anything obvious and its super confusing for me.

Its possible something electrical is overheating in the hot sun and then not firing correctly. Maybe the cd boxes???

I dont know. I wish there was a simple test I could do to narrow down the problem.

But Ive just been dealing with it because it starts ok and runs down the lake without cutting out at all.

In response to '88 crew. I think that is a loaded question and you would get better help if you started your own thread. But thanks for reading anyways.

If anyone has any other ideas on what might be causing this intermittent power loss at WOT Im all ears. Otherwise, like I said Im just living with it.\

I wish I had an answer for those reading but I am sorry to report I have not figured this problem out yet.

 

[DunbarLtd]

As long as I kept reading I thought to comment on something you mentioned way earlier. You said or I percieved that you said you were starting with out the choke. Also later on that there was excessive smoke . Running super rich ? Did you ever acheive the RPMs you expected, or get a new prop ? . If so you owe the readers a reply, that was one long post. Your answer will also help those who helped you.

Im assuming you are replying to me. If you are then I will say I always use the choke in the morning to start it. Its quite temperamental although. Some mornings I start it while holding the choke in and itll crank maybe 2-3x and start right up. Idle just fine until it warms up. It never usually has a problem staying running. Other days, during cold start, for no apparent reason it doesnt want to start right away and itll cough and hiss and then finally get up and going. It could be my starting procedure. Maybe I dont pump the ball enough...Just guessing. But it will always start no matter what and stay running.

Anyways, the smoke is minimal now and so I dont think its a problem. I am not running any more additives in the gas just to see. I have not tried a different prop yet. The last time I was out It ran flawlessly all day at 32mph until i left my last fishing spot and headed back to the dock at like 1pm. I left early that day because it was hot.

The only difference I can think of is I didnt fish for that long on that last spot. I shut the motor off for only like 10 minutes and then started again and it gave me a hard time starting. Usually just cranks right up no problem after i stop and fish for an hour or so.

Thats all the symptoms I am experiencing right now so maybe someone smarter than I might have an idea. It just doesnt make sense it would run fine all day and then all of a sudden i lose 2mph and also about 2-300rpms. It didnt get windy and there is no current to fight. Same conditions...but intermittent power issues.

Im completely stumped at this point.

If it were a prop issue I wouldnt be having intermittent issues. I need to find out why its doing that first before i go worrying about a prop. Although it may increase my rpms, which is a good thing, I am holding off for now until I can isolate this nagging issue. It is not my imagination. My equipment is not inaccurate or failing. It has been doing the same thing for months now.

I would love to sort this problem out but no idea how to trouble shoot it. Thats why I came on here but nobody seems to have a clue so Ive just been dealing with it.

 

[racerone]

At 4200 RPM and full spark advance you may be damaging the motor.---Tachometer set correctly ?-----Run with the timing light at full throttle and see how spark behaves on all leads.------Run at full throttle and look into each carburetor bore with a strong flash light.----See how fuel behaves coming up the main nozzle.-----You have checked the flywheel key ?----Inspected fuel pump diaphragm.-----Test run with a " known to be good " portable fuel tank and hose ?

 

[DunbarLtd]

At 4200 RPM and full spark advance you may be damaging the motor.---Tachometer set correctly ?-----Run with the timing light at full throttle and see how spark behaves on all leads.------Run at full throttle and look into each carburetor bore with a strong flash light.----See how fuel behaves coming up the main nozzle.-----You have checked the flywheel key ?----Inspected fuel pump diaphragm.-----Test run with a " known to be good " portable fuel tank and hose ?

Im using a tach meant for Force. It doesnt have an adjustment screw. Its a straight up 20 pole.

What is a sign of healthy fuel flow if Im looking into the carb bore at full throttle?? I am aware of the nozzle you speak of.

The flywheel key isnt sheared. Its on time as i checked it properly with it at full throttle (not running- just cranking) and its set to 28 degrees btdc.

I changed the fuel pump diaphragm and pre carbs inline fuel filter (one with a sight glass) months ago. And there was no change in the rpms. I even changed all three check valves with the new updated ones and same thing. Im pretty sure its not a fuel problem. I use the boat often and add stabilizer so the fuel is fresh. The inline fuel filter stays full at full throttle as well. One of the first things I checked.

Ill do the full throttle spark test next time out. Also look into those carbies...

 

[racerone]

Fact-----I do not believe you can find a sheared flywheel key by using a timing light !

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF?? your running 4200 I really doubt the key's sheared.
Especially if the timings set like you said.

It seems the only thing left is lighten the load??
Or change the prop to a smaller one.
Say from a 19p alum. to a 17p

 

[Redbarron%%]

If the timing is very far off you cannot adjust the timing in specs, but usually the flywheel will keep slipping to the point where the engine quits.
I have bought a couple of Force Sport jets that were abandoned with the ignition and carbs all scattered until the "mechanic" gave up and the owner did too.
Each time they could not get the thing to run due to a sheared Woodruff key.
Earlier in the year I bought a 90 hp sport jet boat for $200 with an engine that had the ignition all scattered around and a damaged impeller. Something in the jet probably caused a sudden stop and sheared the key.
The owner ran up a bill of $1200.00 and just left the boat.
Unfortunately the labor might have billed the hours and parts, but left the skill out entirely.

 

[DunbarLtd]

IF?? your running 4200 I really doubt the key's sheared.
Especially if the timings set like you said.

It seems the only thing left is lighten the load??
Or change the prop to a smaller one.
Say from a 19p alum. to a 17p

I ran the boat yesterday, all day, from sun up till about 4pm and it ran 32mph @4200 rpm so Id say thats consistent now. Its ran that speed 3 outings in a row. .

I hooked up the timing light at wot and it looked like it was firing consistently but i did it by myself and so Im not sure if I could see any slight variance in the flash as it sparked but it looked good to me sitting in the drivers seat . I fitted the timing light on a pole and tried to watch the flash. All 3 wires seemed to spark okay.

Im starting to think its very possible its a load (weight) issue. It may even have a waterlogged hull. These boats from this era are notorious for getting waterlogged. When I rippped the old carpet out the original floor had lost some of its gelcoat and had obviously gotten wet and started splitting.

Instead of restoring the entire floor, and a quick fix to get on the water, I sanded it all down as flat as possible and added a couple layers of fiberglass and poly resin just to keep it together i suppose. Maybe that added a bunch of weight?

I havent weighed the boat yet and was wondering how to go about that exactly.

Do I weight it pretty much empty with no gas in it or fully loaded?

If its overloaded with weight then maybe a 15p (17P currently) would get it running in a better rpm range but then again the overweight problem is probably just making the motor struggle anyways.

Before I did the fiberglass, i actually drilled a small hole and stuck a moisture meter in a couple spots and the meter didnt move at all so i assumed it was dry but it could be wet in other areas. But thats not to say the actual wood floor is waterlogged and who knows how much weight that might add. I found a small soft spot in the floor up fornt the size of a baseball. Tore it out and glassed it in from below with another piece of plywood underneath to support anyone stepping on it. Then glassed the top until it was smooth. Its held up surprisingly well and its been 3 years now. But obviously at some point Ill either pay up and redo the floor or sell it.

I just think if I had any motor issues Id be experiencing issues while running, whether it cuts out or doesnt want to idle or whatever.

Id adjusted the idle a few times and set the idle speed and Ive got it pretty close to where it needs to be. It idles pretty good right now and starts ok.

It gave me some issues the other day restarting after stopping for an hour or so each time but it started after no more than 3 cranks every time. Whenever it had a rough time starting it would always "chuff" and then usually the next crank it started. I tried even choking it and it didnt change any. Still chuffed at times. Or "coughed/sneezed", whatever you call it.

Although sometimes it would fire up in one crank, which had me scratching my head. Maybe thats normal with the older outboards though??? But to me it should just start up in one crank after warm. I still cant figure out why it sneezes when i try to start it. Id like to figure that out as well.

Anyways....about the weight...anyone have any idea how to weigh the boat properly and what weight is "normal" for the boat '88 17' Capri. Thanks for reading.

 

[DunbarLtd]

Fact-----I do not believe you can find a sheared flywheel key by using a timing light !

Is there any other way to confirm the key isnt sheared that I dont know of without actually removing the flywheel?

If the key is sheared hows the thing even start and run???

Perhaps is the chuffing im experiencing a sign of bad timing?

I still havent figured out what causes that when i try to start it Itll do it cold or warm. Its not a loud backfire either. Its like a loud hiss if i had to describe it. When that happens the motor completely stops spinning in its tracks and i have to crank it over again. Id say of all the restarts the other day it did it a handful of times. But started after that ok. There were times where it fired right up first crank. I never adjusted the motor trim either. I could see the fule leaking from the carbs when i tilt it possibly but it did it even if i left the motor where it was. Seems like an inconsistent issue and I cant figure it out.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Weighing the boat: on the trailer at a truck stop or grain elevator..
Go drop the boat in the water, back to the truck stop.
Weigh again, subtract the 2 weights.
Usually the 2nd weight is only $1

Chuffing when starting, timing, air screw set wrong, sucking air, bad reeds.
Starting fluid test:

Find TDC to check the flywheel key.
Remove the plugs, insert a screwdriver or timing tool in the top cyl.
Turn the flywheel by hand until the screwdriver is pushed out, that shows the piston is at TDC.
Then above the carb is the timing marker.
It should line up the marker with the marks on the flywheel.

You said:

When that happens the motor completely stops spinning in its tracks and i have to crank it over again. ​

That sounds like the compression might be off??

 

[The Force power]

I havent weighed the boat yet and was wondering how to go about that exactly.

Do I weight it pretty much empty with no gas in it or fully loaded?



Anyways....about the weight...anyone have any idea how to weigh the boat properly and what weight is "normal" for the boat '88 17' Capri. Thanks for reading.

Good question, this is all I could find

Capri Series
1500 BR(*)	15'	OUTBD	FG	1	50	975
1700 BR(*)	17'	OUTBD	FG	1	85	1475	7'	Gasoline

OR TRY THIS & LOOK FOR YOUR BOAT

https://bayliner.com/wp-content/uplo...pec-Sheets.pdf