Re: 1988 Force Tilt and Trim
If your valve body is bad, you can gain extra mileage from it by swiching the valves. The front valve in the valve body is the "Up" valve. It gets all the wear pressure from tilting and trimming and almost always fails first. The rear valve (it faces the transom) Holds the engine down and is not really needed unless you like to back up under high throttle and power settings (even a bad one will hold the engine under normal circumstances). So: remove the whole motor and pump assembly from the engine clamp and switch the valves. If you have the valves held in by circlip you will need help because after you remove the circlip, the only way to remove the valve at home is by energising the motor and blowing the valve out. someone needs to catch it in a very thick shop rag. If you have the valves that screw in, you just take the proper allen wrench and screw them out.
You can rebuild the screw in type; Leave the allen wrench in it and grab the small cap on the other end carefully with a cushioned pliers or a drill chuck. Do not **** up the O ring behind the cap. Twist and pull off the cap. It is press fit and takes a fair amount of force. Inside there is a spring, valve and a small O ring. The O ring fails. Replace it with a BUNA-N or Viton O ring. Press fit the cap back on and reassemble. Top off the pump with whatever fluid was in it. If pink, use Dextron Transmission fluid. If clear use power steering fluid If slightly brown use a light weight motor oil. I have seen them with all three types. I guess it depends on who worked on them before because my manual says to use motor oil.
