1988 Johnson VRO 110 reliability of the oil injection?

[racerone]

???----A steady alarm ?----A quick intermittent alarm ?----Or a beep every 20 seconds or so.----That was the question in post #19.----Post #20 explains very little to me !!

 

[Newbie@boats]

Steady non stop alarm from the second the key is turned on until the second the key is shut off.

A solid beeeeeeeeeeeeeeep, doesn’t pause and start again, no idea why it’s going off

 

[cfauvel]

sounds like you have a short somewhere or a bad horn...it should just chirp once when the key is turned to ON.

You are sure you disconnected the vro pigtail? are you sure disconnected the low-oil (two wire) pig tail?

 

[oldboat1]

Steady alarm is an overheat warning, isn't it? Any work on the water pump?

 

[cfauvel]

Steady alarm is an overheat warning, isn't it? Any work on the water pump?

it is , but the OP stated that the horn blares from the moment he turns the key to ON, without starting the motor.

 

[oldboat1]

https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/88_89_88_110.jpg

Temp switch, perhaps?

 

[havoc_squad]

it is , but the OP stated that the horn blares from the moment he turns the key to ON, without starting the motor.

With key in off position, unplug both overheat temp sensor connectors that go to each cylinder head without letting them touch any metal, then turn key to on but motor not running.

Does it give solid buzzer sound? If no, then it is likely one of those sensors is stuck with a closed circuit if both cylinder heads are cold.

If the answer is yes still buzzing, is the VRO pump still installed with the wires on it still connected to a connector fitting after you plugged the oil injection line for premix only.

If the VRO wires are connected, you need to disconnect them.

If the wire plug is disconnected on the VRO and buzzer still going off with key on with motor not running, then you will have to trace the overheat wire back to the control box, looking for any way the wire might be touching a ground.

If the over heat wire has a path to ground, it triggers the buzzer on that model of outboard.

In fact, temporary grounding it is one of the test procedures for verifying the buzzer alarm.

 

[jerkoz]

just changed mine on a 1986 50 hp. mine ran fine with the vro but I kept thinking what would happen if it failed . it kept running through my mind every time I went out. now I wont have to worry anymore.

 

[Newbie@boats]

Sorry guys I didn’t realize anyone responded when I posted up what the buzz was like cause I don’t get email notifications.

I definitely removed the proper VRO stuff. I should add it did this before removal as well.

I assume it’s in the over heat system itself. When the boats running there’s a solid stream of water out of the pee hole not hooked up to muffs but in a barrel. So I highly doubt it’s actually over heating because the water is cool when it’s peeing out and the buzzer comes on with the key cold start.

can my motor actually over heat if there’s water peeing out of it? I don’t know the routing of the cooling system but I assume if it’s peeing out it’s gone thru the entire system/thermostats

 

[racerone]

Sounds like there may be a wiring issue , a sensor issue or a defective buzzer itself.-------Fact for you------The water that comes out the telltale DOES NOT go through the motor or the thermostats.------There may be blockages inside the water jackets that cause overheating.-------Look for information about hoses called WATER DIVERTERS that are installed to guide / route water around the block for proper cooling.-----Salt water motor ?

 

[oldboat1]

An overheating motor will be.....hot! Put the heel of your hand on the top of the heads. Too hot to touch is too hot. (160F is overheating. Normal temp. would be 130-140F, but varies.) Get an infrared tester.

 

[Newbie@boats]

Fresh water motor. It’s been to cold out still to run it again. I have an infrared tester. Will check it out next time I run it just to make sure.

The water diverters aren’t they under the cylinder heads?

I may change them and the thermostats to make sure I’m definitely good

 

[Newbie@boats]

I easily found a thermostat kit for this engine real easily. I cannot find a link or hardly any info on those tubes. I actually have a full gasket kit for this engine including head gaskets so I’m not worried about pulling them.

does anyone have links to those diverter tubes?

 

[oldboat1]

http://ww2.iboats.com/Cylinder-Crankcase/dm/cart_id.454826025--session_id.350260766--view_id.1541076

#10.

 

[Newbie@boats]

http://ww2.iboats.com/Cylinder-Crankcase/dm/*******.454826025--**********.350260766--view_id.1541076

#10.

Thank you. I will check to see what gaskets I have and order them as well as a thermostat kit.

 

[racerone]

Item # 10 is a tube.------But water does NOT flow through them.-------They guide water around the water jackets.

 

[Newbie@boats]

Item # 10 is a tube.------But water does NOT flow through them.-------They guide water around the water jackets.

That’s what you were talking about replacing though, right? I don’t want to remove the heads and replace the wrong thing

 

[racerone]

I suggest testing and inspection of parts !!------If those tubes are out of place and BLOCKING the flow of water , a prudent owner would replace them.

 

[Newbie@boats]

What is the best way for testing a blockage in the system? I plan on pulling the thermostat housing off to check in there and also pull the cylinder heads if I have gaskets in stock to check those little lubber tubes

 

[Newbie@boats]

I pulled one side head and the tubes looked ok.

However where I’m point with the screw driver looks like to be some sandy type material blocking coolant flow.

any ideas?