1988 sea ray seville stringer replacement

bscleo

Cadet
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
26
does anyone know the original stringer setup on a 1988 sea ray seville
17.5 ft, outboard?
 

DufferJim

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 9, 2007
Messages
49
Re: 1988 sea ray seville stringer replacement

Sorry I can't answer as I only have experience with aluminum hulls, and I don't mean to hijack, but maybe my questions will help us both. My question would be, how much hull structural integrity depends on stringers and floor structure in a fiberglass boat? I know the stringers are important to the stability of the floor itself, but how important are they in the overall structure of the boat?

If they're mostly just a support for the floor I'd say you have a pretty free hand as to what you do, and would open up all kinds of customization options to suit your needs.
 

bscleo

Cadet
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
26
Re: 1988 sea ray seville stringer replacement

hey, yeah i really am not 100% sure as to how important they are but from what i've gathered over the past few daysyou have got to have 2 or 4 stringers at a minumum that run the entire length of the bottom of the hull to reinforce it for hard landings while on the water, so maybe that will help you and also i think i'm going to fabricate 4 on my boat, crossbrace it in with
1x1s, then glass it all in. at least that's what i've decided at the moment, hope that helps and good luck.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,089
Re: 1988 sea ray seville stringer replacement

I had an '88 SeaRay Sorrento (19' with swim platform) I/O bowrider. It should be similar to yours. I had a ski well, and under the floor of the well was a keel of sorts. It was a piece of 3/4"plywood on edge, scribed to match the hull, which was the first stringer to fail. The balance of the stringers held up fairly well, although the hull cracked one day due to waves only(not rocks or stumps).

I would use the same size stringers as the originals, but would use dry pressure treated wood, that has been covered in polyester resin for waterproofing.
 

Old Salt Oz

Seaman
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
51
Re: 1988 sea ray seville stringer replacement

The number and size or stringers will depend on a number of things; the design of the hull and the size and location of chines or external 'v' shapes, as well as built in items such as tanks and kill or cool boxes under the deck, the sides of these were often heavily glassed ply to form stiffeners within the hull. Other design features such as amount of deck as apposed to open boat would mean adding stringers across the hull to prevent the sides from flexing.

Older boats used timber as a former and glassed over them with the same resin and glass used to build the hull, often applied with a chopper gun, this device cuts a rope of fibreglass into short lengths that are sprayed onto the hull with a mixture of resin and catalyst that is fed from the same gun.

The problem with using timber is that standard poly resins do not stick to timber for more than a few years, and as poly resins are not that waterproof, water gets in, the timber rots and the glass alone is not strong enough, keep in mind that back then they only applied the glass to protect the timber and add a 'little' more strength.

On later hulls the timber was replaced with foam to form a shape for the glass to go over, but a lot more glass was added. This got rid of the problems with timber stringers and saved a little weight.

There is another problem you need to consider when repairing older fibreglass boats; Poly resin does not stick too well to old poly resin, it has to rely on the rough surface you leave to form a good key for a mechanical bond.
Epoxy resins will form a mechanical and chemical bond and can be up to 40% stronger and lighter.

Lighter because epoxy resin to stitched cloth ratio is close to one to one by weight.
Poly resin and chopped strand mat (CSM) needs a ratio of 3 resin to one mat by weight.

If you must add timber, be it ply, laminated or solid; give it at least two coats of epoxy after shaping, and another two coats after glassing, and remember Epoxy laminating resins are not UV stable, so you will have to protect them, paint or flow-coat is just fine.

I hope this helps.

Andavagoodweekend......
 

bscleo

Cadet
Joined
Aug 4, 2007
Messages
26
Re: 1988 sea ray seville stringer replacement

thanks guys, that does help, i was wondering what that long piece of plywood was at the bottom of the hull and if it was structurally significant or not, and it seems that it is. and i think i will opt to use the epoxy over the the poly, b/c i may convert this to a center console for saltwater fishing, and i need it to be as structurally sound as possible, hope the hull does not crack one me! thanks again, and any more pointers send them my way!
 
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