1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

[Captain Shikaboo]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

Holy moly I should've had some coffee before I posted that. You get the idea though.

 

[Captain Shikaboo]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

I removed the rest of the transom yesterday it came out in pieces. That's ok, because the brilliant minds at wellcraft had two lines scored in the glass that are perfectly paralell with each other, one for the floor and one for the very top of the transom. The rest of the template is just the outside of the back of the boat with about a 3/8-1/2" offset. I'll make it out of cardboard first.

The rest of the hull looks brand new after the old stringer glass was pulled out and the bottom powerwashed. I will be building stringers, a transom, and a set of motor mount platforms this week. If I'm lucky, I will be glassing them in this weekend.

 

[Captain Shikaboo]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

Trying to figure out how I should approach this. Grind the whole area around the OD down? Or just around the cracked areas?

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

I would get the new transom in,then attack the outside....grind as much as needed to get all the cracks gone,then start your layups of csm and biax. Keep in mind your transom thickness of 2" and being flat in all directions around the keyhole.

 

[Captain Shikaboo]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

Hey Rick,
The transom will deffinately go in first, I don't want this to happen again after I install it! I'm waiting for the glue to cure. Should I put a layer of cloth or mat around the entire back (part that lays flat against the back of the boat) of the transom, or should I glue it raw then glass it to the boat? I've seen guys wrap it then glue it to the hull, and I was wondering if you'd lose strength by not glueing it direct?

I took some time to go over the cosmetics on the outside last night. I'm trying to get an idea of how much gelcoat to order.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

Hiya Cap ..

For the trans cracks I would probably do as Rick suggested and grind the gelcoat off back to raw glass ( just in the cracked areas not the whole trans ).

1-2 layers of Mat will do fine. If you layup 1708 your going to be too high. .. Unless you want to grind off a few layers of glass ..

You might consider gelling the whole trans after the repair. This way you have no blend lines .

YD.

 

[Captain Shikaboo]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

A big thanks to the doc and Rick for getting me straight on the crack repair!

I forgot to post the pics of how I made the transom plates. The old transom came out on pieces so there was no way I was going to get a rough stencil. Even the cap was too rough to get a good measurement from. So I made a template from the back of the boat. Pretty self explanatory. Masking tape is the perfect offseting tool for stencils. I simply traced the outside of the back of the boat, offset the thickness of the sharpie and the glass, then trimmed from there. Provisions for the plug hole were made later from measurements off the old cap.

 

[Captain Shikaboo]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

I like how you used the masking tape as a guide for the setback so it would fit on the inside...

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

Well done mate .

That looks like the expensive fine line tape too ..

YD.

 

[Captain Shikaboo]

Re: 1988 Wellcraft 210 Classic XL Restoration

Lol, yes the 'gourmet' fine line tape is one of my favorite tools!

I wasn't able to get a lot of good measurements from the previous stringers since they had turned to dust. I used some old drafting equipment from college regularly used in my wood shop (I'll post pics of the ancient tools later) and some new tech, AutoCad and digital surveying positioners to recreate the inside of the boat. The rotating laser was helpful for simulating the floor, but it's hard to beat old methods. I found my fancy tablesaws and miters were practically useless in this build, my number one tool for cutting has been the circular saw.

Since I have a clean slate, I am going to make some improvements on the stringer and motor mount build. I gave the transom a test fit and started on the bilge and motor mount area. I am using 2X4's to temporarily hold things together for the mock up.

 

[carrollcountybuckhunter]

I know it's 3 years later, but I'd love to know how this build turned out.